I have found that a previous owner wired in a relay to bypass the built in relay on the IPDM. Is there anyone thats ever tried putting an older IPDM in? I have a model year 2011. The blower has stopped and when I pulled it, it works with direct power. I can't find the specs on the resistor so I can't tell if it is good or bad. All fuses and serviceable relays seem to check out. My Rogue is an oven in this summer heat.

The VBC (a MOSFET, not an actual resistor) on an '11 Rogue is on the front of the blower housing beside the accelerator pedal. It can't be replaced without removing the pedal assembly, although you can unplug the connector by blind feel if you know where it's located. If it's blown (and it sounds like it is), replace the blower motor too. VBC's don't blow by accident, chances are your blower is drawing too much startup current and overloaded it. So even though the motor still spins, it isn't healthy. See this post for some general enlightenment:

blower-basics-t628180.html

The motors aren't hard to replace once you have the accelerator assembly removed, they're on the same side of the housing as the VBC but higher up. Very awkward to reach, but they twist in and out with only one phillips screw holding them.

I will say from actually trying that you can remove the VBC without pulling the assembly by using a stubby screwdriver.

Thanks for the input. I will order the parts and hope that is the issue.

fowellkris wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 24, 2021 10:11 am

I will say from actually trying that you can remove the VBC without pulling the assembly by using a stubby screwdriver.

Yep, but very awkward to reinstall it that way, the screws are wood/plastic thread and rarely go back in as easily as they come out. With the VBC connector loose it's easy to verify if the unit is dead, just jump the two fat wires with a paper clip. If the blower runs full blast then the VBC is failed open-circuit.

i just tried jumping those wires and still no response. Parts are ordered.

Have you checked for juice at both of the fuses? There should be two parallel 15A's in the inside fusebox. The Blower Relay in the IPDM is upstream from the fuses, so if there's no juice at the fuses then your original assumption may be right that the IP is dead. If there is juice then check the fat red wire at the VBC with an ohmmeter, it should show 0 ohms to ground.

i have checked the fuses both visually and with a test light, I pulled the relay right next to them and used a test light to confirm power at two of the pins. I checked Ohm to the VBC and my meter does not change of OL. My IPDM has a relay that was added in that I assume is bypassing the internal non-serviceable relay.

The red wire to the VBC must be connected to ground or nothing in the system will work. Having power does no good if the juice has noplace to go! If you're reading infinity from the red to the chassis, that's your problem.

What I think I am reading from you is that the VBC has failed.

No, it sounds like you have a bad wire from the VBC to the chassis. The Red wire on the VBC connector has to read 0 ohms to the chassis, not infinity. "OL" on the meter means an open circuit, infinity ohms.

strong possibility that something came loose. I was chasing a gremlin in the SRS system. That turned out to be the clockspring. I did find that I have some aftermarket device for the passenger seat airbag issue. I may have bumped something in the process. I had the a/c recharged and that worked for maybe 20 minutes before going outside air temperature again. While chasing that gremlin I may have upset the a wire.

I just might need a refresher on how to properly check the VBC wiring. As I keep researching I keep checking different things.

fowellkris wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 24, 2021 8:33 pm

I just might need a refresher on how to properly check the VBC wiring. As I keep researching I keep checking different things.

Check out that "Blower Basics" thread, your setup is pretty much identical to what's diagrammed in it and troubleshooting will be identical too.

ok, replacing the blower motor and the VBC isn't bad at all. I recommend removing the little block box motor for the mode door. This allows the blower motor to just slide right up into place without trying to play yoga with it. This also can help protect the mode door wiring as it can get pushed around a bit in this process.

Next up, to find why the a/c system isn't blowing cold.