So I tested some leds with more light inside the car and it back fired. So my dome lights (in front of the sunroof), the rear map lights and footwell won't come on when I open the door. Below the door lights come on when I open the door. If I press the button to turn the dome lights on they all come on except the footwell or individually they they come on too. What the f%$#* did i do? Any help would me appreciate.

I checked all inside the car fuses. One was blow for the door ones which I replaced. Rest are good.

Thanks

12 M56s

This isn't a "for sure" answer, but on most Nissan/Infinitis the interior lights ground through the BCM and not a "hard" ground. That's how the Power Saver works, and also the "fade out" after you close the doors. Proper function depends on having some meaningful current running through the system. LED's don't draw much and it can make the PS firmware think the lights are open-circuit. The upshot is, the system can get weird if you replace all the lamps with LED's. We saw some very strange behavior from a '14 Maxima where a guy did that. The solution turned out to be one regular bulb and the rest LED's. Or, alternatively, a 47 ohm 2 watt cement resistor in parallel with any one of the bulbs. That should let you change them all out.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 24, 2020 3:12 pm

Or, alternatively, a 47 ohm 2 watt cement resistor in parallel with any one of the bulbs.

Typo, sorry, 3 watt (or more, higher never hurts).

VStar650CL, thanks for the reply. I have been running all leds inside the car since I bought the car in 2016. The B9 leds appear to be not as bright anymore so I was trying to replace them when with more brighter B9 and I blew out the fuse. I replaced the fuse and the under the door came back but the rest interior did not. So you think I should try a resistor? So I put the old B9 back in and nothing, which have been in since 2016.

No, if you've been running LED's forever then a different type shouldn't cause issues. They all have the same 2~3V voltage drop, regardless of brightness. I hate to say it, but it sounds like you blew something in the Power Saver in the BCM or damaged the wiring to the roof console. On almost all N/I products, the "on" switches circumvent the Power Saver directly to ground, so the fact that it lights with the manual switches means the bulbs are working but the PS line isn't. If you want to shoot me your VIN and you know how to pull down the roof console and A-pillar trim, I can pull the diagrams and tell you which wires to check.

JN1AY1AP3CM530347 12 m56s

Thanks a lot. I really appreciate you.

No problem, I'll look it up. If Identifix doesn't have it this evening I'll pull up ASIST tomorrow.

Okay, Identifix had it. On your car the BCM controls both the supply and the ground. There's a purple wire on pin 1 of the roof console switch connector, that's the 12V supply. We know it's good because the lamps work on manual override. The light blue wire next to it on pin 2 is the PS ground. With the doors open and a door lamp lit, with the roof switches in the "door" position, you should see 12V on purple and near 0V on light blue. If you see 12V on light blue (I think you will), then the PS circuit either isn't working or the signal isn't making it from the BCM to the roof. If you see 0V then your roof switch is bad. If 12V, go to the main roof connector at the base of the driver A-pillar. You're looking for a brown wire on the roof side that turns to blue on the dash side. If still 12V on both sides, the problem is gonna get complicated, it's in the BCM or Main Harness. If 0V on the dash side and 12V on the roof side, your problem is right there in the roof connector. If 0V on both sides, the problem is an open wire someplace in the roof harness. There's an intermediate wire-to-wire connector someplace in between the roof main and the roof console, but I'm not sure where it's located, probably under the headliner. Let me know what you find.

Your symptoms are eerily similar to mine which resulted in 5.5k worth of damage to my electrical system. BCM, Canbus harness, etc.

See here: someone-help-i-keep-breaking-my-new-car ... l#p6679002

VStar650CL and Ilya thank you for the info. I am going to tackle it over the Thanksgiving weekend and get back.

Update. Got on ASIST for more details, the intermediate wire-to-wire is located more-or-less above the passenger sunvisor beneath the headliner, but you may be able to see it with the roof console popped down. The Map Lamp Sub-Harness is apparently a separate part from the Roof Harness, that connector (R2:R11) is the interface. The PS wire goes from light blue at the map lamps to brown at R2:R11 to blue in the Main Harness.

I don't think you'll be into a $5K repair, anything wrong in the wiring can probably be circumvented by running a parallel wire and clipping the original wire at both ends. Worst case would be a blown BCM, which is expensive but not $5K.

After checking the wires and harness it is safe to say the bcm is gone bad. Is it plug and play or will have to be programmed to the car by dealer.

After checking the wires and harness it is safe to say the bcm is gone bad. Is it plug and play or will have to be programmed to the car by dealer.

Sadly, there's no such thing as a plug-and-play BCM. At a minimum, the keys need to be reprogrammed and the new BCM configured, probably TPMS needs to be read and re-programmed also. Make sure you bring all your keys, any that are omitted may become permanently unusable.

Thanks, I just moved outside Raleigh, NC. There are several Infiniti dealership in the area. So I am going to call one of them and make an appointment. Thank you very much for your help.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sat Dec 05, 2020 10:26 am

Sadly, there's no such thing as a plug-and-play BCM. At a minimum, the keys need to be reprogrammed and the new BCM configured, probably TPMS needs to be read and re-programmed also. Make sure you bring all your keys, any that are omitted may become permanently unusable.

You're most welcome, happy to help.