Interior Illumination

[Ron Burgundy]

So basically what happened (and I feel like a total dumbass for doing this but hey..) is being the impatient guy I am, I attempted to put in new LEDs behind the instrument cluster - with the battery connected, the keys in the ignition - and the headlight switch....on.Yeah I know...

Anyway, after figuring out the whole polarity issue, I got bulbs 1, 2, and 3 in and lit! Then I put in bulb 4 and they all went out.

So heres where i'm at now. Warning lamps work - but the other lights do not. Lights on the gear shift are not on. Lights on the radio are not on. Dome, map, and vanity lights still work fine.

I've checked the fuses that would seem to be the most likely subjects, but haven't physically pulled out ALL the others just to check.

One point to note: The compass and clock now stay at full brightness (regardless of dimmer switch position and headlight position)

Considering ALL those lights are coincidently tied together through the dimmer switch I know someone out there with some electrical knowledge is going to know where to start.

ANY and ALL help will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

[zerepdivad]

Check tail light fuse/cluster/gauges something along those lines. you likley have no tail lights as well right?

[Ron Burgundy]

Tail lights are good - still working.

"STOP LAMP" fuse still good.

There are no fuses specifically labeled "CLUSTER" or "GAUGES" there are ones along the lines of "METER" "ELEC A/B" "AUDIO" which are also all good.

All 7.5, 10. 15. and 20 A fuses are good.

Whats next?

[zerepdivad]

Do you have a multimeter to test continuity on all of the fuses? That's a lot quicker than to actually

I'm looking at an alldata diagram and i see a few that may be it.

Do you see a fuse 15 7.5amp labeled int/l multi transmit? I assume that's interior light I see 2 different diagrams for the fuse by vins. A number of them look like they could be it. Mainly 10amps, and 7.5. Quite a few of them mention illumination.

The clock, and the full brightness thing make me think you possibly messed up the dimmer switch. I've seen a lot of guys mess stuff up like that when attempting to hardwire their radios.
Modified by zerepdivad at 8:56 PM 1/11/2010

[zerepdivad]

To VIN # 350000Notes



Power is supplied at all times

* through 10 A fuse [No. 61, located in the fuse block (J/B)] * to lighting switch terminal 11.

The lighting switch must be in the 1ST or 2ND position for illumination.The illumination control switch that controls the amount of current to the illumination system. As the amount of current increases, the illumination becomes brighter.The above diagram chart shows the power and ground connector terminals for the components included in the illumination system.The ground for all of the components except for compass and thermometer and ashtray are controlled through terminals 2 and 3 of the illumination control switch and body grounds M4 and M77.

From VIN # 350001Notes

The illumination lamp operation is controlled by the lighting switch which is built into the combination switchand headlamp battery saver control unit. The battery saver system is controlled by the headlamp battery saver control unit and smart entrance control unit.Power is supplied at all times

* to tail lamp relay terminals 2 and 3 * through 10 A fuse (No.61, located in the fuse and fusible link box), and * to headlamp battery saver control unit terminal 7 * through 7.5 A fuse [No.24, located in the fuse block (J/B)].

[Ron Burgundy]

All fuses are a-okay!

(By the way I appreciate you taking the time to help me out)

[Ron Burgundy]

Wait....

I totally confused brake lights with tail lights.

There are no lights illuminated on the back of the truck when the headlights are turned on.

[zerepdivad]

OK then it definitely sounds like a fuse issue my man. I'd verify with a multimeter that has continuity on it. These can be had for like 5-10 bucks for a cheapo at wal-mart and such. Often times they'll look fine but be bad.

The odd thing though is that you said the clock, and compass stay full brightness.

[Ron Burgundy]

Fixed! It was just a bad fuse.

I pulled the fuse out earilier and everything looked fine. Went out a second time checked again - it looked a little old and corroded but the link was still there. But i figured whatever I have extra ones - replaced it and it works.

Thank you so much - super easy fix - I feel dumb for not seein it before, but thats what this forum is for.

Thanks again!

[zerepdivad]

Good to know it was something simple. I've seen people somehow manage to mess up dimmer switches. I'd invest in a cheap multimeter for situations like this. Would have saved a decent amount of time.