I am looking at purchasing some seats out of a 98 Q45, for my '95Q.
Does anyone know if they are the same as a '95 interior in design and color?
Sanman
Interior changes
How about swapping '94-'96 front and rear seats into a '90-'93 Q? As everyone knows, the earlier Q leather has a tendency to crack/rip/tear easier than later Qs of the same generation. Since they're basically the same model, I assume they ride on the same rail/frame dimensions. Right? From the threads I've read, the major difference is in the engines + transmission in terms of less performance on the later Qs, but the interior pretty much remains the same right?
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maxnix
- Posts: 22627
- Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:11 pm
- Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45
Perish the Thought!
A serious downgrade from the OEM leather! Haven't had vinyl seats in over 30 years.__________________Brian1995 Q45 & Q45t & 2000 Q45elwesso wrote:Talk. you can put 94-96 seats in a 90-93.
I may have mine for sale in a while, they will need revinyled.
Discover the power of the button!
elwesso wrote:Talk. you can put 94-96 seats in a 90-93.
I may have mine for sale in a while, they will need revinyled. But heated seats!!
Are there any re-wiring that needs to be done? In other words, does the factory terminators/plugs in a '94-'96 seat identical to '90-'93 seats that just require an easy plug-in? I assume there's some serious modification since the heated seat option is not available for earlier models, but then again that's just speculation. Could you, Wes, or anyone else shed some light into this topic?
elwesso wrote:The wiring im 90% sure its the same..... They use a lot of the same illustrations, and the only difference is the seat heater wiring.....
Wes - I bought a pair of front leather seats (OEM from a '94) and tried to put it together, but have had little success. The connector under the seats are different, so it would require splicing and re-wiring every single wire to make it work. I was advised to look at the wiring schematic of both cars through the FSM and re-wiring everthing since even the power seat switches from the '90-'93 differs from the '94-'96...that's going to be of little help to me since I can't deciper electrical wiring codes and, quite frankly, don't know if I know enough to be messing around with this. Also, the guy from the salvage yard also mentioned that I should now pick up the power control switch unit from the '94-'96 since that is the only control unit that will integrate with the same year seats. Any suggestions?
You COULD get the switches and controller for the same seats you bought and replace the existing one. The connectors would be different, but by running a continuity test through the wiring you could figure out which color wires go where.
Time consuming, but not tough. The switch cluster should fit right where the old one was???
Time consuming, but not tough. The switch cluster should fit right where the old one was???
DesertQ45 - OK. I went out and bought the controller switch & trim pieces and sure enough it does fit snugly into the door panels. Now I don't know the first thing about doing a "continuity test" that you're referring to. Could you walk me through this process.
Jesda - I see similar color-code wiring on the terminator/plug, but it doesn't seem to match in terms of position. In other words (for illustration purposes), the yellow is located column 2, row 3 but the new switch sits in column 1, row 5. Does that make sense?
Wes - If I can't make this work, the seats are up for sale.
Jesda - I see similar color-code wiring on the terminator/plug, but it doesn't seem to match in terms of position. In other words (for illustration purposes), the yellow is located column 2, row 3 but the new switch sits in column 1, row 5. Does that make sense?
Wes - If I can't make this work, the seats are up for sale.
SF-- Continuity testing can be done a couple of ways. The easiest is to use a multi-meter (available for $10-20 at Radio Shack). The idea is to put one of the tester leads on one end of the wire your checking and the other tester lead on the other end... for example the yellow wire you mentioned that runs from the seat controller position to the controls in the door. If it is the SAME wire from end to end, you will get a tone indicating continuity. Then, just make sure that you connect the yellow wire (via 2 splices: 1 at the switch connector, and 1 at the controller module) to the same color wire at each of the modular connectors that plug into your switch pod and controller module.
Now this assumes that you have the harness “ends” that plugged into the switches and module that you bought from the wrecking yard. What you would be doing here is cutting the EXISTING connectors off and splicing in the connectors that you received with the parts you bought. If you didn’t receive the connectors, then see if you can get them—it will make this a lot easier. If you do this, the connector that plugs into the switch pod will have the same color wires as the connector that plugs into the controller module. You can then discard the existing connectors and only use the existing pre-run wiring in the harness to complete your circuits with your replacement connectors. You can also test them as you go. Splice one wire, plug it in and see if the switch gives you the corresponding seat movement.
If you don’t want to buy a multi-meter, another way to test continuity would be with two batteries and a flashlight bulb. Tape (w/black electrical tape) the batteries + to – together and tape a piece of scrap wire to each end of the joined battery pack. Then tape the negative wire to the silver barrel of the flashlight bulb (btw you can use an old flashlight for the parts and put it back together when you’re done). Then to test a wire for continuity, put the positive lead from the batteries on one end of the wire you are testing and the positive terminal of the bulb on the other. If the light glows… you have each end of the same wire—thus it is continuous (which the term “continuity” denotes).
For a more sanitary and less “short-prone” way of doing this… it is always a good idea to solder the splices and use heat shrink insulation around them.
AND if you can handle it, you COULD still use the existing connectors by simply disregarding the above instructions and using a small (very small) pointed screwdriver, to release the barb that holds the brass sleeve in the connector case (this is the thing that is crimped onto the wire and inserted in the modular connector slot. You will have several of these in individual slots, but all of them can be removed with a little care and tenacity. You just have to look carefully into each end and see where the spring barb is located and then press it down and pull the wire out. Once you have the wires/brass sleeves out of both existing connectors, just start reinserting the wires into the same slots on both connectors… i.e. yellow wire into slot 1 row 1 of both connectors, green wire into slot 2 row 1, etc. until you have insured that the SAME wire runs into the SAME slot in BOTH connectors. THAT is the BEST way to do it, but the cut and splice will accomplish the same thing… it is your call based upon your skills (as Clint Eastwood said, “a man has got to know his limitations”).
Give it a shot! Good luck!
Now this assumes that you have the harness “ends” that plugged into the switches and module that you bought from the wrecking yard. What you would be doing here is cutting the EXISTING connectors off and splicing in the connectors that you received with the parts you bought. If you didn’t receive the connectors, then see if you can get them—it will make this a lot easier. If you do this, the connector that plugs into the switch pod will have the same color wires as the connector that plugs into the controller module. You can then discard the existing connectors and only use the existing pre-run wiring in the harness to complete your circuits with your replacement connectors. You can also test them as you go. Splice one wire, plug it in and see if the switch gives you the corresponding seat movement.
If you don’t want to buy a multi-meter, another way to test continuity would be with two batteries and a flashlight bulb. Tape (w/black electrical tape) the batteries + to – together and tape a piece of scrap wire to each end of the joined battery pack. Then tape the negative wire to the silver barrel of the flashlight bulb (btw you can use an old flashlight for the parts and put it back together when you’re done). Then to test a wire for continuity, put the positive lead from the batteries on one end of the wire you are testing and the positive terminal of the bulb on the other. If the light glows… you have each end of the same wire—thus it is continuous (which the term “continuity” denotes).
For a more sanitary and less “short-prone” way of doing this… it is always a good idea to solder the splices and use heat shrink insulation around them.
AND if you can handle it, you COULD still use the existing connectors by simply disregarding the above instructions and using a small (very small) pointed screwdriver, to release the barb that holds the brass sleeve in the connector case (this is the thing that is crimped onto the wire and inserted in the modular connector slot. You will have several of these in individual slots, but all of them can be removed with a little care and tenacity. You just have to look carefully into each end and see where the spring barb is located and then press it down and pull the wire out. Once you have the wires/brass sleeves out of both existing connectors, just start reinserting the wires into the same slots on both connectors… i.e. yellow wire into slot 1 row 1 of both connectors, green wire into slot 2 row 1, etc. until you have insured that the SAME wire runs into the SAME slot in BOTH connectors. THAT is the BEST way to do it, but the cut and splice will accomplish the same thing… it is your call based upon your skills (as Clint Eastwood said, “a man has got to know his limitations”).
Give it a shot! Good luck!
desertq45 - Your are trully an inspirational and valuable source!With all the alternatives you have given me, I feel like I can get accomplish this task...now let's see what kind of success my first electrical-wiring-DIY task will yield. I know it'll require a little more work, but I'll try your last suggestion so I can keep the factory connectors and harness looking clean. Thanks a million DerertQ45! Don't be surprise if I come back with some more questions...
Q45tech wrote:Why not have a body/leather shop reskin the old 90-93 seats from the materials on the 94-96 seats.......the seat will have to come out for this process.
Actually, I had given that thought in the past and it was going to do that as my last resort if I can't rewire the power seats correctly. However, I'm more inclined towards freshening my interior with the looks of the '94-'96 seats since it actually has a "usable" center console and the basic necessity of a cup holder one simply can't drive without these days. I already took my center armrest out and replaced it with a '94-'96 center console. It worked out great, now all that's left is changing the seats...
The installation was actually simple...just remember not to yank anything hard since you might break a plastic clip or pull the electrical connectors out from underneath the center console. Mine had a 10-CD Changer control unit, so I had to drill some holes in the new center console to make it fit. Even though the new tan center console is "almost" a perfect match, the brown trim pieces weren't since the the '94-'96 colors are a little bit lighter...but that is barely noticable and doesn't disturb me one bit.
Btw, the newer center console is about 2-3 inches longer than the original '90-'93. It all starts with the removal of the center bezel trim piece and removing the two screws below the shifter, which subsequently allows you to remove the aft portion.
Btw, the newer center console is about 2-3 inches longer than the original '90-'93. It all starts with the removal of the center bezel trim piece and removing the two screws below the shifter, which subsequently allows you to remove the aft portion.