Interesting CV issue...

[SnowSurfLax]

So, over a 4000 miles ago I got an oil change and tire rotation. They showed me that my driver's side front axel cv boot had grease all over it. They wiped it off as I wanted to see how bad it was as I couldn't get it done that second. Well, we saw no tear and no holes. Checked it a week later, no grease on boot, checked it two weeks after that and still no grease.

Checked it yesterday, I see grease. Not very clean grease mind you either, lots of dust in it and I haven't left city streets in far too long.

Now, my front struts need replacing badly (doing that friday) and are leaking oil.

Is there any chance the grease on my boot could be from something else?

Also, how hard is it to replace a half axel? I have the FSM so I can do it, just curious how hard it'll be to do that while I'm replacing my struts.

[fueler]

Ive seen struts leak oil but its usually pretty obvious where its coming from. The grease in the boot is thicker than oil and it usually flings around the rim and brakes.... I wouldnt know what to tell you if there really is CV like grease but no holes or tears in the boot! If you clean up the boot, take your hands and move the ribs of it side to side. Sometimes a crack can be well hidden in the boot.

[timmack]

true dat, or less commonly the big end of the boot slipped off of where its clamped down to. its gonna be obvious if its cv grease or strut oil because like fueler said, much thicker..think of wheel bearing grease as opposed to motor oil.

[Issac]

CV grease is a moly grease and dark black from new. It is not a hard job, but not easy either to replace CV, but takes time, order and patience.

Need brake parts cleaner, liquid wrench,rags/paper towels, grease (good), and some common wrenches and a torque wrench would help but not necessary, and cv axle kit-Short little guys.

I got some complete assemblys for $50 each and they were new and nice. China of course. Seem fine, and actually very good. Splines were large and not rounded. Some remanufactured are sandblasted to have very little groove. Get new.

You have to take off the lower control arm bolts for the easy way to do this and there are 3 bolts (14mm)- took a breaker bar on mine to get off.

You have to take the black cap off the hub. I used the nissan lug wrench (flathead side) and a very large screwdriver on the opposite side and pop it off.

(if you want to do your wheel bearings, now is a decent time also.) Pull external clip off to release the axle shaft. Harbor freight makes a little red pin expander tool that works great- after doing this way too many times with needle nose.

Then you have a small bearing on the inboard side of the hub that the CV is kept in alignment with. It is inside the hub, outside CV- like a wheel bearing, and be careful pulling your axle out to not damage These bearings.

Clean while you are there, or you can pull this bearing and put a new inner seal in which is different from the hub bearing seal. I just reused mine just fine. Clean seal and lip and use grease on new CV, etc.

You also have to pull shaft towards wheel to release CV axle, and tap the flange that connects to the differential flange, cause they seem to stick a bit. Just a rust bond slightly. (careful doing this, see below)

Install new grease, and clean groves in hub to make for good clean fit and grease again.

Then retorque, with end wrench or long *** ratchet extension, turning... tighting...turning... tightening, until all tight. I would keep threads ungreased on these mounting bolts.

Mount the 3 bolt triangle stud for the lower control arms, no grease but cleaned, torque away. This bugger... can be just that, to get back in. It takes sliding the hub inward to the axle and be careful not to mess with your shock tower by moving hub and strut back and forth because it has no stability.

Then put clip on. If it doesn't snap in, push it close to the channel, reach around and pull CV to you, and push clip over the edge until it makes a snap. *If the space on the clip is more than a pencil width or so, Or the clip look uneven, pull and tap and seat. Then check with a tap to see that it is seated. I reused mine a few times and the right tool taking it out (H.F.) can pay for itself right away.

Tap little cap on with soft object till it seats (I use a little locktight to assist)

Wipe off the grease you were not supposed to get all over the rotor (have never been able to not do this)

The nice thing is you will not have to do it for a long time.

Seem like doing this and wheel bearings, brakes, or struts, makes for a big day but worth doing at same time.

[SnowSurfLax]

HOly Moly. Maybe I should just replace the boot? I heard that's a PITA, but after checking the FSM and reading your reply (great detail btw!) I don't think I should attempt it. Plus, axle is about $100 and a boot is like $20.

Issac - did you check the axial end play when you did yours? Did you have to take the tie rod end off? What about "wheel bearing preload"?

What's starting to eat at me right now is I spent $600 15 months ago to have both front axels replaced. You'd think a brand new axle would last longer than that!

[fueler]

DAMN! Why did you replace the axles?? Mine have been through hell and so far in 140k miles ive only replaced 2 rubber boots, still riding hard on original axles

[SnowSurfLax]

Cuz it was cheaper than getting both boots replaced!

I was in Sunnyvale and the shop rate was $90/hour. 2 hours to replace axles, 4 horus for boots. Came out aobut $150 cheaper.

[Issac]

It looks hard because I wrote out all the steps. It could be about 3 lines long if I didn't add what it is really like.

It is not hard actually. I am only a beginner, but I just read and study up and think about the function of the thing.

-you don't have to take off the tie rod off. The easier way is the 3 bolts that hold the arm.

The play was the same as the original and not much at all. You could shim I suppose but I doubt that it is really an issue. But again, beginner.

My CV joints had slop in them and were dry. No cuts either. 94k.

The wheel bearings were a pain to get bearing pre load right. I learned much and it is not hard now. It is not hard again. Just messy.

And in the end I was happy to do it myself because I learned that the wheel bearing can settle, no matter how perfect it seems seated. Maybe slight wear or burrs, I don't know. But I can nail it now. The whole pre load thing took a lot of work to figure. There is no advice I found that worked, and I aint buying some Nissan tool. But I found the load and it is right. Plus the grease is nice and not all nasty.

Got the whole axle for $50! So that is why not some half *** boot.

Plus how you gonna get the bearing races polished and tight toler by adding grease and a boot? For that price... I said sure.

-When the wheel bearing is loose, as in not preloaded slightly, the CV axle grooves will start actually hitting the Wheel Bearing Axle. My CV has a smooth area where it was rubbing and wearing. This was from a loose wheel bearing. I can spot a loose wheel bearing often when I jack a wheel and it drags in a bunch when it gets off the ground. Of course the top bottom push/pull too.

I put this out because I could not get help with this stuff, and many auto parts guys are jerks or don't know. So I figure I may be no expert, but I did it and it does work.

The main thing I am learning about the Pathfinder, and any car/truck for that matter, is to let something go usually means something else is taking the work. Then that thing goes.

So for example, bushings get bad, then it wears Universal joints, other bushings, tie rods, etc. So I do many things on the early side for this reason. Plus I like to know what is under me.

And anyone can do it. I have no training or help. But I am a long way from taking the engine apart...no thanks. So I might be asking for help here too soon. Thats the deal.

[SnowSurfLax]

Well, prices I've been quoted for half axles are $100. Though I think at this point I'm just going to do an inspection when I'm down there and see what's going on. I don't have a shop to work in so I'm not going to run around all day buying tools. I think I can get my shop to slap a boot on for $140 or so if I can't do it. But if I can find a half axle for $50, I might just say F it and go for it.

I'd actually feel more comfortable getting inside the engine than I am messing with the axles!

I've built an engine from the ground up. Drive train stuff is not my expertise!