Thank you very much and very helpfulThe00Dustin wrote:Got the control unit replaced under warranty on my 06 M45 in 2009. Maybe it's the same part or same type of part. Part number on invoice is K-285E1-EH10C. I am guessing you should truncate the "K-" from the part number, but I don't know. Hopefully the info is helpful since I had to dig it up. :P
ThanksIlyaKol wrote:I have searched Google and confirmed that is the correct part number (don't use the K-). Merlin, you should be all set with that number.
The above unit is also known as:
CONTROLLER ASSY-SMART KEYLESS
Also, if a power distribution unit is mentioned by the dealer, that is part number 285F0-EH100.
I guess he's right. For my 2006 M45 this what you have at Sawgrass Infinitikontra-vers-E wrote:285E1-EH12B is the part number he gave but said it had variations depending upon production date. Said it underneath the fusebbox next to the e-brske pedal and that the exact part number is on it.
Yes, I failed to mention that I did replace the batteries in both my keys and tested... the problem persist. The door and trunk sensor do not recognize the key or work. The only thing that works somewhat is locking and unlocking using the Fob. I have to stand close to the battery side of the trunk, which is near the IKCU.
I haven't done the work or ordered the part yet but from my research, yes it is easy to get to and physically replace but the programming and logistics I am still trying to figure out. I will keep you all posted.
Hey what's up bud. My car is at my mechanic right now too and I think I am experience the same issue you had.merlinq2 wrote:Correct,
I was not able to use the key port to by pass the issue. Basically, the corrosion had caused the car to think that it needed to go into anti theft mode. So while all controls in the car work, memory seat, tilt, radio, etc, the car would not start or run. It sounds as if your issue could be a weak battery in your fob. I have been told some cell/smart phones can zap your fob when they are taking a call or moving data and the fob is very close to your phone the key can get zapped and be rendered useless.
Thanks for helping a part number would be helpful. Our head office is in North Carolina and next time I am down there I will pick up the unit as an insurance policy.
By the way, love the user name...............
I think you have a weak battery or a loose battery connection. I am saying that based on an experience that I believe I posted in this forum in the last year. That having been said, if I am right, I also think you need a new mechanic.hsingh2088 wrote:After you push start, electricity engages for about 3 seconds and the power steering beings to tilt downward and just right before the car turns over, the electric power to the car completely goes away and the car is basically dead.
I have to slam my door or wait it out or some sort of voodoo magic and then hit start and the car goes through the full sequence.
My mechanic said that it looks like the Anti-Theft is engaging, and that it might be the smart key module.
Do you think that makes sense?
From post6555049.html#p6555049The00Dustin wrote:On that note, and just for the sake of conversation, my battery has been changed since my grounding kit was installed. Since then, the positive terminal has come loose twice. Both times I didn't know what was going on immediately. The first time, I didn't see any issues until my car wouldn't start one morning. I hit the start button and everything just died (all lights on the dash and everywhere else in the car, like the battery was completely dead). I looked under the hood, battery looked fine, I got back in the car, it started, I threw tools in the trunk, and I went where I was going. It happened again when I was about to head home, only I quickly got under the hood and pulled the battery cover to see sparks at the + terminal. I tightened it and didn't worry about it any more. The second time, a few days ago, I noticed my auto-up windows weren't working, but shrugged it off and reset them, then yesterday morning, when I hit the start button, everything just died again, at this point, it was obviously the same thing, but I confirmed that to be the case, then I got my tools again, loosened the positive terminal, got the connector back down where it should be, and tightened it again (I didn't do a good job the first time, as I was in a hurry to get out of the parking garage and get home).