Integra Fluidyne Radiator in 240SX

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
onepuff
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So i've been getting tired of watching my coolant temps and worrying about overheating. I went to a trackday a few months ago and couldn't get in more than 3 laps at a time without hitting over 200F. I've had a 1995 Integra for a few years and with the Fluidyne radiator in it i never had any problems overheating AT ALL! So one day i measured the integra radiator and my stock 240 radiator and low and behold the core size is exactly the same. Only difference is the upper inlet is about 2 inches more towards the driver's side on the integra rad. The mounts are a little different too but nothing a little fab work can't fix. Now you may ask why not just get a 240SX fluidyne rad. Well they are consistently $100-$150 cheaper for the integra rad. Way more integras were made than 240's(especially S14s). Anyway so last week i saw that the temps around here were about to hit the 90's and i've been having to run my heater on full blast to keep the temps under 200F just driving around town. I knew this wasn't going to be comfortable so i went ahead and got the integra Fluidyne. Install was really easy. Anyway here's some pics.



Here's a pic showing the difference in the upper inlets. Just turned my rad hose a little and it fits perfect. It is up against the IC pipe but that will be fixed soon as i'm gonna fab up a new upper intake plenum for my RB20.

Upper mounts

Lower Mounts

I haven't hit 180F yet! I had one 14" fan as a puller and a 10" as a pusher on the stock rad. They are now both mounted as pushers. I also removed the AC condensor so i know that helped some but the insurance of a great radiator is priceless. I may get some rubber isolators and add those for the mounts but it is mounted very tightly as is, so i'll probably only do that if i'm bored one day. Thanks for looking. Let me know what you think.


gawdzilla
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put the splash guard (shroud) under the car back in. trust me it makes a HUGE difference. if yours is broken or damaged a new one from the dealer is about $50.

240z4u
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Very nice! Looks pretty good man. IMO you really should use rubber mounts to keep from damaging the radiator or bracket. Great tech tip for sure!

Gawdzilla, are you talking about the plastic shroud that sits under the radiator to fill the gap between it and the core?

Evan

gawdzilla
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240z4u wrote:Gawdzilla, are you talking about the plastic shroud that sits under the radiator to fill the gap between it and the core?
hmm the part I am talking about is this: http://www.trademotion.com/par...gid=0

big piece that goes from the front bumper back and bolts to the subframe/tension rod mounts. first thing people trash when working on their car cuz it breaks pretty easily. it helps a LOT.

240z4u
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Holy crap, I had no idea that part even existed. I am ordering one this week!

Evan

EDIT; I never had one on my car when I got it.
Modified by 240z4u at 12:20 PM 6/9/2008

gawdzilla
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240z4u wrote:Holy crap, I had no idea that part even existed. I am ordering one this week!

Evan
haha, like i said it's often trashed cuz ppl are either lazy to replace it when it gets damaged, or they don't want to remove the 6 or so 10mm bolts that hold it on when working on the car. when you buy a used car it might not even have been on there

I saw a good 20 deg drop in temps after install.

Sorry for the threadjack OP

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brizanden
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gawdzilla wrote:put the splash guard (shroud) under the car back in. trust me it makes a HUGE difference. if yours is broken or damaged a new one from the dealer is about $50.
dam mine was broke and i just threw it away yesterday haha. oh well i guess ill get a new one.

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SStrunks
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good to know, did you have to fab a lot to mount it correctly?

240z4u
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Are the pictures not working for you? All the fabrication is right there. This isn't rocket surgery.

Evan

Darius
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I just called the dealership to see what new upper radiator brackets cost. Nissan must have started making them out of solid copper because they quoted me $45 each!

ItzGenX
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Darius wrote:I just called the dealership to see what new upper radiator brackets cost. Nissan must have started making them out of solid copper because they quoted me $45 each!
I don't call them stealerships for nothing.

rb25drag
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What do the older s13 guys do? I don't have a splash shield on mine either. Also have an over heating problem.

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Bwana
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I haven't made mine yet, but I have a 4x8 sheet of 16 gauge that I'm going to use for a custom lower cover. I'll throw the car on the lift and make a cardboard pattern, then cut the metal to fit and fasten it with self tappers.

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Neejay
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rb25drag wrote:What do the older s13 guys do? I don't have a splash shield on mine either. Also have an over heating problem.
apparently there is/was one for s13s?

http://www.trademotion.com/par...gid=0

I might be ordering one of these too...

rb25drag
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Neejay wrote:apparently there is/was one for s13s?

http://www.trademotion.com/par...gid=0

I might be ordering one of these too...
Thats the lower shroud if your running the Stock clutch fan, I don't think it would be worth buying, I don't think it would cover anything.

The 16 gage sheet metal idea is a better ideal.IMO

l0nestar
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Neejay wrote:apparently there is/was one for s13s?

http://www.trademotion.com/par...gid=0

I might be ordering one of these too...
Hmm. Maybe that might help as well... $70 is kinda rough Maybe I can find one used in good condition.. But if it works I would be happy.

BTW,OnePuff, thanks for the writeup!

silviasgp06
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wow thats good to know,

also buying that splash shield asap. my temps flirt with 200 sometimes. Texas heat sucks sometimes

onepuff
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Yes ducting also helps very much in having an efficient cooling system by forcing the air to go through the radiator instead of just swirling around in the front of the car.

Anyone looking to buy the OEM splash shield, you could probably get some sheet metal and buy an air shear or electric shear and fab up your own lower ductwork for the same price and still have the tool for future projects.

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Neejay
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onepuff wrote:Yes ducting also helps very much in having an efficient cooling system by forcing the air to go through the radiator instead of just swirling around in the front of the car.

Anyone looking to buy the OEM splash shield, you could probably get some sheet metal and buy an air shear or electric shear and fab up your own lower ductwork for the same price and still have the tool for future projects.
I'd rather just buy one premade...or at least have someone print/show dimensions already.

rb25drag
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Neejay wrote:I'd rather just buy one premade...or at least have someone print/show dimensions already.
Well I like fabrication!! So Ill just build that sucka!!

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Neejay
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rb25drag wrote:
Well I like fabrication!! So Ill just build that sucka!!
LOL Well, I mean, if I had the resources/space I wouldn't mind trying it...but no garage + heat + apartment complex = bleh...

rb25drag
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I feel ya, Hard to do when you don't have the tools or place to do it. Im lucky and can use my dad's garage.

l0nestar
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Neejay wrote:I'd rather just buy one premade...or at least have someone print/show dimensions already.
That is what cardboard templates are for

rb25drag
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Well i made my shroud this past weekend. Made it out of sheet metal, and aluminum .

a few pics:




240z4u
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What year teg' radiator did you use? I am up in the air between this and an aluminum koyo at this point.

Evan

onepuff
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240z4u wrote:What year teg' radiator did you use? I am up in the air between this and an aluminum koyo at this point.

Evan
94-01

kouki-gymkhana
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I'm running a Koyo and I kind of regret it. The rad is HUGE but the fin spacing is so tight, I don't know how much airflow is actually able to pass through the radiator. If I had to do it all over again, I would get a Griffin or C&R dual pass, or any dual pass rad for that matter. They are pricey but it is the most important part of you cooling system and these RBs run HOT.

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Neejay
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kouki-gymkhana wrote:I'm running a Koyo and I kind of regret it. The rad is HUGE but the fin spacing is so tight, I don't know how much airflow is actually able to pass through the radiator. If I had to do it all over again, I would get a Griffin or C&R dual pass, or any dual pass rad for that matter. They are pricey but it is the most important part of you cooling system and these RBs run HOT.
I'll be running a CXracing or Mishimoto. I haven't heard anything bad about neither. Just as good for nearly half the price.

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tryingtobebest
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This is a very good found, can somebody post a precise thickness measurement of the Intergra fluidyne rad!

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PorkChopExpress
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i have the michumoto with a 14" pusher, works fine for dd. could prob use another fan if your beating on it at slow speeds. would have rather went with a copper core for more space tho.


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