intake mani leak and high pitch whistle after removal and instalation

[lucky03602]

followed numerous guides on here, removed upper intake only, removed emmissions from it (egr, canister, etc..) i have one vac line coming from intake (next to brake booster) to the fpr.

i also replaced the iacv and the sensor right next to it with new ones.

i replaced both gaskets with brand new ones, followed the bot instructions for bottom and head parts of upper intake.

when i started it car doenst want to run at all, theres a shrill whistleing sound i think coming from one the the sensors and i can hear an air leak near #1 cylinder.

i know i have to rip it all back apart, but i have no clue about how i should fix the stuff.

also i was thnking of high temp silacone for both ends of upper mani, opinions?

im extremly lost here.

-edit- i also removed the secondary butterflys, and took off the actuator.
Modified by lucky03602 at 11:56 AM 8/10/2009

[lucky03602]

took it all back apart.

when i took fuel rail off there seemed to be some antifreeze coming out of injector one, not anyother injector just the one for cylinder one... didnt do that before, what could that be from?

found one vac line i needed to plug, directly underneath the tb, the groiup of tubes it goes into is all ripped apart so its not needed atm.

aside from that the gasket looked ok, mani isnt cracked all bolts were tight...

any suggestions??

i have to wait for gf to get home, im going to hook the fuel rail up and see about the injector flow's and also check 1st injector..

also maybe while its all apart i can find that whineing noise, hopefully!

any suggestions, comments or questions are welcome!!!

[lucky03602]

can anyone help??

[Razi]

The whistling might be because you removed the butterfly valves and perhaps is making that sound as it passes through the holes.Did you plug them up?

[lucky03602]

no i did not, i did wonder about that though, and like usual its too late for me to reuse the screws...owell.

so while i had the intake back apart, i found just a hair of the old gasket on the area where it was leaking, so i took it off and put it all back together.

the car still wont idle, and the wistleing is still there, and i do believe your right razi and ill just deal with it for now..

so what should i do now..i was thinking of putting the old sensors back in, the car didnt idle but it at least it ran half way decent and see if that helps the issue...

[Razi]

Hmm, I'm not sure what you should do at this point.I haven't taken my intake manifold apart before...

Perhaps someone with more knowledge can chime in and help.Good luck.

[Firewind]

I had a soft whistle at one point. You know when you take out the butterfly valve rod, there's that little screw that you take out and slide the rod out? I forgot to put that screw back in, and it whistles a little. However my car still idled fine with out it, however I did plug it up afterward. I also had a little trouble with the gasket I used and leaking water slightly, I ended up putting some high temp gasket maker around the water jacket only, also fixed the problem.

Have you tried to adjust your idle yet? I had to adjust mine slightly after i removed all the emissions.

[liquid_cool]

Lucky..how ya doing..this is your lucky day!..with all joking aside..if you removed the egr and iac crap then your idle must be ajusted from the setscrew and nut under the throttlebody now..its acctually better and easyer to adjust..it takes a small allen style and a 8mm..with the car running....loosen the 8mm nut and slowly rotate the screw with the allen to adjust the idle..once you find the idle you like..hold the allen in place and tighten that nut back down....now the intake.....if you removed the butterflys like most have..then i sugest so (J-B Weld)..2 part style...to fill the holes up...you can get a good clean for it to bond to the many by spraying some brake cleaner on the area to fill....make the fill of the holes as smooth as possible..thats the important part..smooth as possible...last but not least..the gasket..

the standard gasket for the intake many is a paper pile of garbage...if your good with sicors..you can make a better one out of high temp gasket material you can get from any autopart store...there are a few materials you can get..cork (Not recomended for this) oil infused.(crappy like the oem ones)..and the rubberized blue bond stuff (I love this stuff!)..the blue rubberized bonded crap is what i used..with some high temp silicone..to make the gasket..just do a rubbing on crap paper..cut that out and then use it as a trace pattern..easy as pie..best of all..it will only cost ya 5 bucks or so to make tha gasket..with material to spare for 4 more!..

good luck..and keep us posted on your issue.

[lucky03602]

been hectic around here, update.

so i ripped it all back apart yet again, and as far as the leak went i found just a hair of the old gasket left above the stud for the head, removed that and put gasket back on.

i also noticed i had one vac hard line left from right under the tb itself, so i removed that and capped the nipple.

also like i mentioned about the coolant, what might that be from?

but regardless i put all back together, started her up and the air leak is gone, but still wont idle and the whistle is still there (i should mention when i removed the butterflys, i just unscrewed them from the rod, i never removed the rod )

this weekend im going to put the old sensors back on for kicks and see if it does run better, if it does then ill just adjust the idle and go with that.

[liquid_cool]

any update lucky?

[lucky03602]

put the old sensors back in, it still wont idle but it does run stronger lol.

found out that the fuel injectors arent setting right, i broke off that little tab on the rail that goes over the stud on accident

there still sounds like a leak, im just going to put rtv on the head side of the mani and call it good.

[liquid_cool]

if your talkin about the bolt holes that hold the rail on..you can just replace the threads man..back to normal..you need a good seal for the engine to work correctly...take a pic and let us all look at it and point out exactly where your leakin from..maybe one of us guys can come up with sumpin.

[lucky03602]

no, not the threads.

on the fuel rail theres 3 places to secure it to the engine, 2 that are bolts that go thru it into the mani, and one that is a spacer of sorts that goes over the head stud on the firewall side of engine.

the spacer sort on that goes over stud on firewall side is made of very thin metal and bends very easily, and working on your car while drinking you tend to bend thin stuff...

so it got to the point where i couldnt find the exact or close to exact place where the metal should be so that the fuel rail went on with out much problems so i got pissed and decided nissan didnt know what they were doing so i broke it..

with out that spacer thing, and ill look for pics later cuz the digi camera broke at my party this sat, the fuel rail doesnt have a tight fitting..

but aside from that when i had the "new" sensors in i didnt break the part off the rail and it still didnt want to idle correctly..

ill get a fuel rail and go from there, i have a wtb ad on here now.

[pungkiteater_671]

wow dude this is the same s*** happening to me !!! did u figure it out ?

[lucky03602]

i have a fuel rail coming, once i have that i can see if that was it..

[pungkiteater_671]

i have a fuel rail coming, once i have that i can see if that was it..

i got an extra rail tried it still the same shiet

[lucky03602]

finnaly an update!!

well i finally got the fuel rail delivered last week or so, and since i lost my spacers and needed another bolt for the rail i went out and bought them (bolts are m8 1.25 25mm, washers are m8 5/16)

put the new rail in, bolted everything up (used 3 washers between rail and upper intake) and started the car up

started right up with no issue, idle'd at 1700rpm for a couple mins then i hit the gas a little bit, and it went down to 800rpm and idled very very smoothly and strong.

so now i got the engine back to running condition and even better its running much much better i got to replace my high pressure power steering line, rear pads, turn my rotors and replace one caliper.

also what i did to my engine in all was

removed both timing chain guides and sprayed the tensenors, cleaned the 2 sensors inbetween the upper and lower intake mani's, removed all emissions, removed 2ndary butterflies (left the rod in, btw there is no more whistle!)

i only have one vac line coming off the lower intake mani straight to the fpr. i still have all the other hoses and t's for when i do turbo it though!!