bj180sx wrote:just unplug it and put it in the glove box. That sensor is for diagnostic purposes only. Your check engine light should not come on. I have the JWt intake too and have no problems without the sensor.
Nismo1182 wrote:Air Fuel ratio = O2 sensor
I saw this post a few days ago and decide to unplug that air intake sensor to test out bj180sx post. Hes right, that sensor doesnt do crap. I have a custom intake and I unplugged the sensor, went about the neighborhood for a few minutes, no check engine light. So I plugged it back in for the time being until i can find time to wrap up the connection.
Former_240_s14 wrote:if you are using just the air filter you can relocate the intake temp sensor along the plastic tubing. if you want i can get you pictures tomorrow.
Former_240_s14 wrote:What I did was I drilled the two holes for the screws and mounting, then I drilled the big hole for the sensor, then, I got the metal backpiece form the air box, and put in in the tube, then i just screwd everything together, works perfect for me....knock on wood!
PabloHoney wrote:this sensor is used by the ECU to calculate the amount of air is being ingested. Mass Air Flow alone is not enough information to know how much air there is. A mass of air at 100 degrees has a different density then the same mass at -20 degrees.
96_S14_SE wrote:I have the same filter and tapped the holes into the top metal part of the cone.
What you do is take the backing plate and match up the 2 drill bits needed to replicate the holes. Stick the mounting plate on the top plate of the filter and mark the holes with a marker for drilling.
Drill out the center and 2 bolt holes.
I then put the mounting plate inside the filter where it should be and with a razor scored the rubber (on the inside of the pop chargers top plate) around the peice. I then pulled the rubber out, allowing the mounting plate to be closer to the ATS, thus allowing the scews ample room to grip to the plate. My ATS also has two of the oem rubber gasketsas my ram air setup tore the wires of one off at the sensor from vibration / movement of the harness, so I got another one at a yard and now have two gaskets on there for added security.
Ive also lengthened the wire to the connector and added rtv to the area where the wire / sensor meet so that it wont break off again, and it hasnt in yrs.
If you drill it out this way, and do it right, then go to sell it later on the next guy wont have the problems you are having nowPlus it looks oem-ish which is good
![]()
96_S14_SE wrote:Hmmm while that post needs some cleaning... (edit you fixed it hehe) Ill be damned. Looks just like a jwt filter with a double cone added in... Even has that exact goofy bracket to use as well.
Sorry I doubted you, and you learn something new all the time. Like I said Ive never seen or heard about that style from JWT, but it looks too identical (even the bracket has the exact bends) not to be.
I would consider tapping it into the intake tract somewhere. If you are still using the plastic hose just drill a hole for the sensor, and two samll ones for some course thread screws. Add some rtv to the sesor base and screw it in place... It will be secure and leak free this way if done right..
ka24de_510 wrote:Just because you can remove a sensor and the check engine light doesn't go on doesn't mean you should go around removing sensors.
If the FSM says that it's only for diagnostic purposes, I'd tend to believe it, but I haven't read that part myself. It personally makes me wonder why Nissan would put themselves out the time and money to include something that should be a part of a mechanic's toolset.
Pablo was right about the calculations however. Try replacing your sensor with a 3.3K resistor (orange orange red) and tell me if your idle doesn't go up. Mine does. The ECU advances the timing.