Installing Rebulit ka24de Motor

[jjup_99]

I just got my motor Back from the machine Shop, and was looking for some tips on installing it. What else I should replace, Break in procedure, Recommendations on oil, ect.

[zachattack_5491]

I'm WAY too lazy to go look that up for you. In the top right hand corner where it says "Google", search your question. There must be a billion articles about that.

But in general: Replace water pump, gaskets and seals of course, as many sensors as you can afford, mainly the knock sensor because it's a PITA to get off later. There could be more depending on what the deal is with your engine. Like just totally bare strait out of the shop or if you have some stuff from where ever you pulled it from.

Not sure on the whole break in procedure, but use cheaper non-synthetic oil for sure for the first 3k miles at least, and at first start-up run it for about 2 hours and make sure everything is good. Change the oil, open up the oil filter and check for big chunks of metal.

You'll find more when you check out some articles. Good luck

[duffman1278]

The break in procedure can vary slightly from person to person.

[jjup_99]

I found this, when I searched breaking in ka24de Motor.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[zachattack_5491]

WTF dude? Search on Nico. I have no idea where that site came from, but it certainly isn't KA specific. Never heard of anyone breaking in an engine by "Running it hard". I guess I have no experience in that area, but sounds like a quick way to start rebuilding your engine again.

Search on Nico, people here know what needs to be done SPECIFICALLY for your KA. Not for a motorcycle engine or lawnmower engine...

Edit: Here, I'll even get you started.Tear-Down zerothread?id=272493 Rebuild http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4156 Break-In zerothread?id=336036

That took me a whole ten minutes, and I even read some of them
Modified by zachattack_5491 at 3:53 PM 6/15/2009

[jjup_99]

I did search Nico That where I found this. zerothread/328196



I might go with what ItzGenX wrote here:zerothread?id=336036

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Pass Christian, MS9-4-2002Add this post to My Notepad « Re: (240sxvaj) 5:43 AM 5/9/2008

All the motors I've built, I have put brand name conventional oil in. Start it up and run around checking for leaks as it warms up fully. If the car is equipped with a standalone, I usually set up a base map as well while it warms. After about 15-20 minutes of idling and no leaks etc, I pull out of the drive and go balls to the walls. Usually I start off with 1st and 2nd gear at half throttle as I begin to drive off. Then as I decel in second gear with clutch still engaged, I listen for anything off sounding. If none detected before the RPM decel to idle speed, I gun it to redline all the way through 4th gear, then let the engine do my braking all the way down to idle. I do about 4-5 1000rpm to redline pulls in 4th (usually over 100mph for most cars) before bringing the car back for it's first oil change. I always use a magnetic drain plug along with a large 4x4x1 inch magnet I have stuck to the bottom of the oil pan during this break-in procedure. For aluminum pans, I usually use a few bungee straps to keep the large magnet under the pan. This helps keep all the microscopic metallic flakes scrubbed off from the cylinder walls, piston rings, and cams to sink in the sump and stay there, where it can be collected by the oil drain plug. If the pan is a steel oil pan, the whole oil pan bonuses as a magnet too. When draining the oil for it's first oil change, I will notice very very very fine metal particles in a decent amount (indication of cylinder and ring break-in). The key here is to make sure I find no large particles (bearing flakes in particular). Running this stuff between your fingers should feel silky smooth. If it feels grainy, then there's something wrong with the build. If I drop my big magnet into the oil and harvest all the micro metal particles, I would end up with about half of a US dime's worth. The second step after changing the oil (once again to conventional oil) is to do a compression test. So far, out of all the dozen I've done, all came out damn near exact from each other 1-2psi gradient. Now, drive on this new oil for another 1000 miles and change the oil. If you see a reduced amount of micro particles left on your magnetic drain plug (big magnet not used), then it is ready for synthetic. Usually the amount of micro metal pulled from the second oil change has barely enough metallic in it to smear across my thumb print. Anymore then that, I would continue to run conventional oil for another 1000 miles. Like always, drive it how you want after that first oil change, hard soft sideways upside down whatever floats your boat, 90% of the break-in was from the hard pulls in step 1.

Car: 95 240SX SE S14.5

New Plans: RB!

9200RPM Screamer SR22DET10.80@131mph 19psi /w Fully Built S14 Block /w Fully Built S13 Head T671.6 60ftRetired setup.

13.26@105mph 12psi /w S13 Blacktop2.00 60ftRetired setup.

Slowest Powerplant:Disaster SR22DET Paperweight, Built by JGY Customs



Modified by jjup_99 at 7:05 AM 6/19/2009
Modified by jjup_99 at 7:06 AM 6/19/2009

[zachattack_5491]

Well... I dunno man. I really don't have any idea which method would be better. But I KNOW the "take it easy" method works just fine. Maybe the balls to the wall method works better, but I really have no experience with that. I say you pick which one you believe and let us know what happens.

Edit: I'd say... Don't drive it like a grandma. But don't redline it everytime you start it up. I'd just be worried that I'd blow my freshly rebuilt engine. Start her up, check for leaks and oil pressure. Let it sit at idle for 2 hours. Take it for a cruise around the block, but keep it below 80% throttle and 5k rpms. Change oil, check for metal pieces. Rock non synthetic oil for about 500 miles, then switch over to royal purple or Mobil1. That's what I'd do.
Modified by zachattack_5491 at 7:11 AM 6/19/2009

[jjup_99]

Thanks, I appreciate all the help. I wish I could afford to be the guinea pig and Prove the balls to the wall method.

[sorrowfulkiller]

I'm just going to say this, many subarus running mobil1 spin rod bearings.There are many people in the subie community that will NEVER run M1 ever again because of this. Now subaru =/= nissan, but an engine is an engine, They all need correct lubrication.

I'll stick with rotella-T myself >_>

[jjup_99]

Finally installed that rebuilt motor. Only took me four years, I had to buy a house. Just not in the original car it was intended for my white paper weight of 1989 240sx se. It ended up in my 1994 240sx convertible's engine blew the rings and was shooting blew smoke. So, after all is said and done and the motor is installed. I start getting a bogging/hesitation on acceleration. Every thing is stock. Kept the emission system intact.

I did my due diligence and searched the threads for common issues. I checked the injectors, Idle Air Control valve, secondary air system, and the ground cables.
Cleaned the MAF.
Ran Sea Foam through the gas tank.

My question is to anyone who experienced a similar issue. What do I check next?
Took it to a local mechanic. He claimed it would go away after a few highway rides. He does not specialize in imports and I don't want to ruin my rebuilt motor.
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

[goldfish]

Check resistance/manually inspect your knock sensor.
Check your timing.
Check TPS voltage
Inspect your spark plugs/replace if old.
How old is your ignition system?

I think your bogging/hesitation is something is pulling timing. Which could be any number of things. Have you seen any check engine lights? Try manually pulling codes on your ECU as well.

-fish