Installing polyurethane bushings in your rear differential (G50)

[superuber]

I thought I would do a write up, here goes..............These are the Energy suspension bushings. Two for the frontand two for the rear of the diff. Part # 7.1108R. They are actuallyfor a 90 to 96 300z, but will work in your G50.First remove your drive shaft(17mm), and your abs sensor(if app.)your sensor may be at a different location depending on year.Also, your sensor will probably be rusted in place. You may want to have one on hand or check it before the job gets going. Also,my exhaust was not in the way, but mine is not stock. So this maybe an issue for you. You may have to drop your rear section.next remove both axles. 6 bolts a piece(14mm). They can stay in place,They have some flexability.This is a pic of the rear stock bushings.This is a pic of the stock front bushings.rear is now out. Two front bolts(17mm). Two rear bolts(19mm).As you can see I installed the front bushings. I had to cut the pass side out with air chisel. you can see it's pretty trashed. It was junk even before I hit it. These are the rear bushings. getting these out is not easy. I used my air chisel and they eventually came out. you have to be very careful not to hit the subframe and damage it. After you get the rears out you have to reuse the inner metal cup. The rubber has to be cut/tore/ground off. After much work they were out. Also, neverwork without safety glasses! These are the rear in. You have to really push to get them in.The metal cups I cut out are not in yet.Here is the rear diff in with all the bushings in place.You can see the metal cup on the left rear. Also keep in mindmy rear 408 is not stock. The cover, rear outputs and the likeare all from some other diffs. When I did my 408 I stole partsfrom some other diffs. I had to throw a pic of the Q in! This is where it spends most of it's time(getting modded!). In conclusion, this is not a job for the average diy'er. You really shouldhave a lift, air and the proper tools. Although many of you guysare way beyond the average diy'er. The bushings run about $45.The whole job took me 1.5hrs. Keep in mind I can have my diff out in 15 minutes! The worst part is the rear bushings. Other than thatit's not a hard job. If you have any further questions feel freeto email me at [email protected]


Modified by superuber at 9:32 PM 9/7/2006

[maxnix]

Nice write up.

How about a report on any differences?

[superuber]

It's still on the lift!

[redmanfx]

Nice!!! I want to buy your lift!

[maxnix]

Thank you to the moderator who correctly spelled it polyurethane!

[superuber]

Thank you to the moderator who correctly spelled it polyurethane!

That would be my buddy Wes. I only left the Y out. Polurethane, I know sounds like I'm from Kentucky.Thanks Wes!

Nice write up.

How about a report on any differences?

Not a lot of difference. Does seem more responsive, stiffer.

Nice!!! I want to buy your lift!

My lift is not for sale, although you can have my tech! He's cheaper!

I was gonna do spell check, but why buther someof you don't missa tricke!

[elwesso]

ill convert this to an article soon!!!

[sijoko]

Nice writeup.

I changed mine out when I replaced the subframe bushings. I had to burn them out. As you said, it would be a very hard job for most people with the subframe in the car.

The ones I bought were black but from Energy Suspension. So far, no problems for the rear bushings in 40k miles. The front ones split in about 5k miles but I blame it on my Level Ten trans and my heavy right foot. I ended up the Nismo front diff. bushings and that took care of the problem.

One thing that I would add to the procedure. Put a paint mark on the driveshaft and diff flange so that you can re-install them in the same position.

[maxnix]

Not a lot of difference. Does seem more responsive, stiffer.

My lift is not for sale, although you can have my tech! He's cheaper!

Interesting it is noticeable at all. I would think it would not matter in all but the most extreme loading of the drivetrain.

Post your tech as members are always on the look-out for competent ones.

[superuber]

Interesting it is noticeable at all. I would think it would not matter in all but the most extreme loading of the drivetrain.

Post your tech as members are always on the look-out for competent ones.

150 shot of nos enough? Maybe I'll go 200! No, he's a ford guy. Plus he can't spell eather!
Modified by superuber at 3:27 PM 9/8/2006

[superuber]

Nice writeup.

One thing that I would add to the procedure. Put a paint mark on the driveshaft and diff flange so that you can re-install them in the same position.

Yes! You are right! I'm not the best at these write-ups. Thanks for the detail! Any other advice is certainly welcomed!

http://community.webshots.com/user/neheadsuperuber

[elwesso]

itd be interesting to compare the poly to brand new OEM.. Im sure its a lot stiffer than itwas with worn out OEM.