Installing Nitrous in a G50

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PoorManQ45
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I was talking to Wes on AIM about how the nitrous is installed. He said that it enters the intake via a hole drilled in the metal elbow right before the TB. Is that correct? If so, does that mean that any nitrous kit could be made to work with the G50? I think he said that it is a fogger system. What is that?

What all would be needed to allow the Nitrous bottle to be mounted in the trunk? Here's what I've come up with so for:

Nitrous Bottle (with mount)Remote bottle opener (Not necessary, but easy)Plumbing the nitrous to the plenumA solenoid to stop and allow the flow of nitrous, controlled by a switch in the passenger compartment.

What else is there?

I know that it is recommended that a JWT ecu be used, but is it necessary?

Would a 75~100hp shot be acceptable with the stock ECU on 93 octane gas?

How much would it cost to fill a 10lb bottle? A 20lb bottle?

Thanks in advance for your help.



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elwesso
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Brien

As you can see with ym Q, to run a NOS system effectively and safely, it requires lots of time, effort and money... Youll have one shot of nitrous on your Q and it will be back to where it is now, not running...

I think fred said I have about 3000 worth of stuff JUST in the nitrous system...

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PoorManQ45
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elwesso wrote:Brien

As you can see with ym Q, to run a NOS system effectively and safely, it requires lots of time, effort and money... Youll have one shot of nitrous on your Q and it will be back to where it is now, not running...
Of course, if I put a 175hp shot on my Q, it would probably end up on the side of the road with a puddle of oil underneath it. But that's why I suggested running a more reasonable shot, say 75~100hp.

Can someone tell me what would be required? I don't understand why the total on fred's erg.. I mean Wes's Q for the nitrous system came to ~$3000. Most kits run about ~$1000~$1500. I know that the G50 is different from most cars that have nitrous kits designed for them. But is there really any difference in the way that it is implemented?

What caused the price to be so high?Is it because there is a seperate fuel cell with a seperate pump that is only operated when the nitrous is used?

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PoorManQ45
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elwesso wrote:As you can see with ym Q, to run a NOS system effectively and safely, it requires lots of time, effort and money... Youll have one shot of nitrous on your Q and it will be back to where it is now, not running...
Wait, are you saying that your Q45 has been modified internally? That would be the only real difference, if anything.


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elwesso
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One word..... ECU

The computer must konw and control everything, otherwise bad things happen.....

See also: This Q45 has had 3 engines in its engine bay

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Rex
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No expert on nitrous, but the biggest "killer" of a nitrous'ed motor is fuel starvation. Wes' has the upgraded ECU which does more than just increase the fuel, it also prevents too much from happening during WOT shifts.

Did you read all of HD's posts in the other thread?

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PoorManQ45
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Ok, would a JWT ecu be the only other thing required to make a VH45DE safe for laughing gas?

Rex: What other thread?

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Rex
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Don't think it's the "only" thing, but it's a good chunk of change, along with the race fuel cell (cheapest about $275 + the filler lid/cap $100-ish) and pump and ... See how it adds up quickly.

Here's the other thread.

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PalmerWMD
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It was all installed professionally at same time too.

Fred..

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PoorManQ45
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I didn't mean "only" in the sence of money. I ment it in the sence that it is the final thing needed for a N2O system

Is the seperate fuel cell required? or could the regular fuel system be used in combination with N2O?


DR.Q
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PMQ- I highly suggest buying a book called "How To Install And Use Nitrous Oxide" by Joe Pettitt. It is excellent reading even if your not interested in nitrous. Read it enough times until you feel confident installing the system yourself. It's sold at many auto parts stores. If you want, you can email me at [email protected] and I'll go through the different types of setups with you.

Stephen

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rsiwicki
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http://www.jimwolftechnology.c...D=338

http://www.jimwolftechnology.c...D=340

The above links is where you get your N2O system. JWT has all the stuff you need for about $1,500 which includes thier upgraded ECU program that already costs $600 so it is a pretty good deal when all things considered. If you are not running N20 you still get the benefit of the performance chip which is really good for every day driving and then you can flip the switch and kick some real butt when needed. I think this is the 100 shot setup and they told me that it can be installed by a novice mechanic. This should be basically the same setup as Wes's except that Wes probably has a few extra goodies.

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elwesso
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Wow great find Rob...!

The only difference is mine has the race gas fuel cell integrated in, with the mods and the ECU.....

HeavyDuty
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PoorManQ45 wrote:I didn't mean "only" in the sence of money. I ment it in the sence that it is the final thing needed for a N2O system

Is the seperate fuel cell required? or could the regular fuel system be used in combination with N2O?
The high dollar part of Wes's system is the accessories, in addition to the JWT ECU & NOS module.

Remote bottle openerHeaterFuel cell, pump, switching station

To answer your question, no, none of that stuff is required for a 50 or 100 shot. Particularly the Fuel cell, aux pump, etc. The JWT setup designed to run on the stock system. Albeit a "perfect working order" stock system.

It not only controls when it's engaged, but controls additional fuel without taxing the FPR like a typical dry setup does with a Nitrous pressure regulator that exerts force on the FPR to increase rail pressure as opposed to widening the pulse width on the injectors & retarding the timing appropriately, and shutting off the NOS flow before you slam into a rev limiter.

Got some pics here somewhere of some plastic & aluminum manifolds blown in half from a nitrous backfire (n20 + fuel + rev limiter) wet systems are particularly bad for this as any modern fuel injected dry manifold was never meant to flow anything wet. Fuel recondenses (puddles) in nooks and crannies & when the conidtions are right..........BLAM!

DR.Q
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<<<Got some pics here somewhere of some plastic & aluminum manifolds blown in half from a nitrous backfire (n20 + fuel + rev limiter) wet systems are particularly bad for this as any modern fuel injected dry manifold was never meant to flow anything wet. Fuel recondenses (puddles) in nooks and crannies & when the conidtions are right..........BLAM!>>>

Finally! Someone other than me said it. I've been trying to tell the SVX club folks this for years. Thanks Jason.

Stephen


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