Installing GTI-R T28

[The_Chosen_One]

Alright after searching the forum it wasnt quite clear on what exactly has to be done.

Their was one post that F s t Caz made which at the time showed detailed pics but unfortunatly the pics dont work anymore.

Now it stated a bunch of things like clocking the compressor housing, modifying the wastegate actuator etc etc.

Now I have custom made SS lines and fittings, I have the GT28R inlet adaptor which is just a flange with a straight piece of tubing, so making a intake is cake. I also have a SSAutochrome manifold so would clocking the compressor still be required?

If anyone has some pics definatly would be nice.

this is the turbo I'll be purchasing in the coming weeks.

http://cheapturbo.stores.yahoo.net/garrettt28.html

[themadscientist]

The S14 one is a better option, that's what I have. I don't think you can use the GTi-R actuator after you clock the compressor because the way it sits on the transversely mounted Pulsar SR20 is different than how the S14 turbo (and CA turbo too) sit on their respective longintudinaly-mounted engines. Clocking the turbo just means rotating the compressor housing in relation to the center cartridge to line up the outlet with the piping and clear the manifold. I had to hog out one hole on the CAs outlet that bolts to the turbos exhuast housing, I assume the GTi-R needs the same. Be shure that when installed the oil feed on the center catridge is straight up!

[SR20Monster]

zerothread?id=216745

contact him , he'll help you..

[tyrannix]

Theres a couple of us using GTIR turbos on here

teh baby sheep eater (r34 gtr)

myself, there must be another

the way youll need to do it is -remove the wastegate actuator-loosen all the bolts to the center housing (soak with PB Blaster for awhile first)-rotate everything so that the oil drain points the correct way and you can get to all the line fittings, also with the compressor turned to clear the manifold-tighten the bolts to the housings-modify wastegate actuator bracket to fit (I cut it and welded in some scrap to make it fit

thought i had a pic of my bracket on cardomain. i might be able to get a pic tonight, but thats how you do it

CJ

[datsunboy]

same thing I did for mine.If I did it again, I'd go for a silvia one....the GTiR one has a slightly too large exhaust housing for my liking ( .64 a/r ).My car doesnt really see full boost till about 4500rpm

[c-rad]

same thing I did for mine.If I did it again, I'd go for a silvia one....the GTiR one has a slightly too large exhaust housing for my liking ( .64 a/r ).My car doesnt really see full boost till about 4500rpm

I think you mean .86 a/r

[boost_boy]

I think they really .LAG A/R. Not worth the effort. But if that's all you got, go for it.

Dee

[dash]

gti-r has a bigger turbine wheel also... 79 trim iirc

[datsunboy]

oops, my bad, .86 is what I meant, the .64 silvia version is the one you want

[fluent]

Me and mates have CA18DET's with GTiR T28's.On 10-12psi, Full boost by 4000rpm (untuned on my car) and slightly lower ~3800rpm on my mates which are tuned.

Pulls good with an EBC or ball/spring boost controller and not bleed valve.

If you get one for cheap, its worth it imo.Else if you had the $, spend some money on something newer thats ball-bearing, has a better turbo compressor map and exhaust a/r to match the 1.8L.

[The_Chosen_One]

so in other words I'm just gonna have a lag of 500rpms later than the GT28R yet I'm gonna have 20whp more, and a turbo that doesnt lose steam like the GT28R?

As for compressor it has the same as a GT28R.

[dash]

lots of ca18 "gti-r vs t28" info on sxoc too - feedback & dynos.