How difficult of a job is it to install new bushings on a 1991 Q45a?
I'm asking because I'm thinking about having a local garage do the job for me. They have worked on Qs before including guide jobs.
Also, I recall there has been plenty of talk about using polyurethane bushings instead of the stock bushings. Is it worth it to change to the polyurethane bushings?
Installing bushings on a Q45a
Yeah it'd be great if your specified which bushings need replacing. I replaced the front and rear sway bar bushings and complete rear endlinks from Energy Suspension and it's paid itself off in dividends. Not only are they much cheaper than OEM ($14/pr complete rear endlinks complete with bushings vs. $16 each per OEM at most dealerships) The car feels planted around rotary's. It's a VERY easy job to do, just raise the rear of the car and use 12mm and 14mm wrenches to remove the sway bar. Swap in the new one, grease the insides the bushings and voila!!!
I would agree that this is one of the easier DIY jobs. Energy Suspension makes 28 and 20 mm sway bar bushings for front and rear. You can also use washers to tighten up the bars per Q45tech's advice.
HOWEVER, I caution you that, if your active suspension is working correctly, your spring rates are very soft compared with the standard Q. At low speed you have a LOT more suspension travel than a standard. Therefore, the poly sway bar bushings will make noise. Grease, refinish the bars, get graphite impregnated bushings-the noise will return! Second, again because of the soft springs and ride, coupled with the newly stiffened bars, the car will follow bumps and irregularities in the road surface, and may wander when the road has a high crown. But you will love the cornering.
That's the price of the cushy ride. Don't get me wrong, I miss my active Q and would love to find another. I just couldn't say no to my new standard car due to its great overall condition.
HOWEVER, I caution you that, if your active suspension is working correctly, your spring rates are very soft compared with the standard Q. At low speed you have a LOT more suspension travel than a standard. Therefore, the poly sway bar bushings will make noise. Grease, refinish the bars, get graphite impregnated bushings-the noise will return! Second, again because of the soft springs and ride, coupled with the newly stiffened bars, the car will follow bumps and irregularities in the road surface, and may wander when the road has a high crown. But you will love the cornering.
That's the price of the cushy ride. Don't get me wrong, I miss my active Q and would love to find another. I just couldn't say no to my new standard car due to its great overall condition.
Sorry for the lack of info.
Honestly, I don't know where all the bushings are located. Is it a worthwhile job to have all of them replaced? The Q has 107k miles on it and I know the bushings have never been replaced. I bought it used at 62k miles.
I'm not having any problems, I just thought it would be a good idea.
Honestly, I don't know where all the bushings are located. Is it a worthwhile job to have all of them replaced? The Q has 107k miles on it and I know the bushings have never been replaced. I bought it used at 62k miles.
I'm not having any problems, I just thought it would be a good idea.
Ok, I'll give you the lowdown:
There are about 28 bushings total, but don't hold me to that. Here's a list:
Front lower control arm bushings Front strut rod bushings Front and rear sway bar bushings Rack & pinion bushings Rear sub frame bushings Rear differential carrier bushings
Aside from the differential carrier and subframe bushings, most of this stuff is DIY material but you'll need a vise to properly press out old bushings and press in new ones.
It's a good idea to have the shop tackle the subframe and diff bushings because as Q45tech statesd, that's about an 8-hour job for a competent mechanic. The subframe has to be removed, as well as the diff, control arms, a tiresome and long process indeed.
I only used the energy suspension bushings for the front and rear swaybars, but I'm looking to get them for the steering rack and tie rod ends as well to enhance steering feel. Other than that, the OEM bushings will work fine and produce less noise and harshness. If you're going to have the shop do the subframe and diff bushings, you might as well let them do the entire thing.
There are about 28 bushings total, but don't hold me to that. Here's a list:
Front lower control arm bushings Front strut rod bushings Front and rear sway bar bushings Rack & pinion bushings Rear sub frame bushings Rear differential carrier bushings
Aside from the differential carrier and subframe bushings, most of this stuff is DIY material but you'll need a vise to properly press out old bushings and press in new ones.
It's a good idea to have the shop tackle the subframe and diff bushings because as Q45tech statesd, that's about an 8-hour job for a competent mechanic. The subframe has to be removed, as well as the diff, control arms, a tiresome and long process indeed.
I only used the energy suspension bushings for the front and rear swaybars, but I'm looking to get them for the steering rack and tie rod ends as well to enhance steering feel. Other than that, the OEM bushings will work fine and produce less noise and harshness. If you're going to have the shop do the subframe and diff bushings, you might as well let them do the entire thing.
I've finally had some extra time and have begun replacing mine on my 92Q. I've already swapped out the end link bushings with Polys and tension rod bushings with oil filled factory replacements. The sway polys are on order...16mm rear and 28mm front.
Anyway, I saw that Sopdadope listed all of the bushings...Just curious if the control arm bushings can be replaced. I had to buy new upper links because they weren't. Also, if you manage to find the Energy Suspension part numbers for the Rack and Pinion or anything else please let me know. I want to replace all that I can to get this thing tightened up. robert
Anyway, I saw that Sopdadope listed all of the bushings...Just curious if the control arm bushings can be replaced. I had to buy new upper links because they weren't. Also, if you manage to find the Energy Suspension part numbers for the Rack and Pinion or anything else please let me know. I want to replace all that I can to get this thing tightened up. robert
Didn't get a chance to work on the tension rods today, I have midterms to study for. But, placed the Energy Suspension bushings, model #7.7105G, next to the old liquid-filled OEM bushings and by eyeballing it, they look about the same size. They should work, but I can' be 100% certain until I actually fit them. Hopefully, I'll find an answer by the end of the week.