Installing 12" JBL Subwoofer (Band-Pass Enclosure)

[prlwhitecoupe]

Hey guys (and gals)

I just purchased a JBL GTO1204BP subwoofer. I will be getting a JBL amp as well sometime soon. I got some issues though. I know it would be a good idea to upgrade my Bose factory deck; but the problem is I want to retain the the stock bluetooth and steering wheel controls, not to mention the XM radio and 6-disc changer; my understanding is there isn't an aftermarket system out there that will be compatible (unless the factory 3.5 nav system was installed). All I want is a little more OOMPH from my system. This is my first car, and my first system. I've known many friends who have had crazy *** systems...but like I said, just a little more OOMPH for me, nothing crazy for showing off.

I know I will require a converter that will bypass the factory Amp/System...other than that...what are your thoughts on a capacitor? Good idea or not really required?

Here is the sub:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Q...O12BP

Here is the amp I will be getting:

http://www.bestbuy.ca/catalog/...20103

Installation will be from a car audio shop...NOT BESTBUY.

Any suggestions or advice will help...

some questions I have are;

- Will I be taking full advantage of the sub's power even though I'll be using the factory deck?

- The amp I am going to buy; will IT take full advantage of the sub's power? (I will not be upgrading the sub)

Thanks Alot!

[XxXSnake23XxX]

I did this to my car @ 4,000 KM12" Alpine Type R (500 RMS @ 4ohm)Alpine M850 (500 RMS @ 4ohm)

When you are looking to buy a sub or amp look at the RMS rating. That is what is really going to show you how much you are truly going to get out of the sub. Looking at your sub and ampSub = 300 RMS @ 4ohmAmp = 204 RMS @ 4ohm

So you are underpowering your sub and you wont get its full usage out of it. I would recommend getting somewhere in the 300-350 or even 400 RMS range. More power is better then less power.Maybe this:http://www.bestbuy.ca/catalog/...20103

Honestly an aftermarket deck would be nice to have since you can fool around with more then just bass and treble but its just all up to you. I have a factory deck and my system still pounds away. The main reason, for me is just cosmetically it looks better stock then with, for example a Avic D3, but then again thats just me.

+1 for to choosing not choosing BestBuy!I heard many horror install stores

[dangeris]

So you are underpowering your sub and you wont get its full usage out of it. I would recommend getting somewhere in the 300-350 or even 400 RMS range. More power is better then less power.

You get a cleaner sound!

[prlwhitecoupe]

Thanks alot!

Thats what I thought my problem would be!



PS - btw If I stuck with the JBL amp even though I will be underpowering the sub, which does not seem to be by much, will I actually be saving my sub from blowing? I mean if it's underpowered, theres no way I can blow the sub right? As opposed to an amp that will push it beyond it's RMS rating and have a possibility of blowing the sub...I don't know the exact details behind systems, but it just makes sense to me logically lol.......that and I didn't buy a service plan on the sub....lol sooo...yeah....

[notaverage]

My question is, how are you going to fit your subwoofer enclosure in your trunk? If you plan on putting it in the back of your trunk, MAXIMUM clearance is only 12".

I ran into this problem yesterday, when I ordered the enclosure below.http://www.sonicelectronix.com....html

Sonicelectronix has it mislabeled, the DEPTH is 12", and the HEIGHT is 13". Now I have to deal with returns

[notaverage]

BTW, speaking of installs, anyone ever used "InstallCard"?

It's a prepaid installation card which uses local shops to do your installs.

[prlwhitecoupe]

Good question, I've been thinking about it; but my car is in the shop right now, and I will be (hopefully) getting it back tmorrow......it's gonna suck if it doesn't fit! I really like the enclosure...

Ohwell...if it doesn't work out; hello HIDs!

[dangeris]

I've actually been contemplating on integrating subs into the stock sound system too. I have the Bose with Navi but since the trunk space is very limited, I'm thinking of making an enclosure that will not not take away more of the already small trunk space.

[notaverage]

I've actually been contemplating on integrating subs into the stock sound system too. I have the Bose with Navi but since the trunk space is very limited, I'm thinking of making an enclosure that will not not take away more of the already small trunk space.

You and me are in the same boat I also have the tech package, so I am planning on using an amp with high level speaker inputs so I don't have to buy a hi-lo converter and the intaller doesn't have to go into the dash to hook up the amp.

I don't have to power tools to build the sub box myself, so I was planning on buying the box below from sonicelectronix. At a 11.5" height, it should fit in the back of my trunk pretty snug, AND it's very cheap, cheaper than if I made my box myself.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com....html

[dabien]

hi,i am thinking about upgrading my stock speakers to some aftermaket ones. but i have never done that before on my own.can anyone tell me how to open dash, door, and trunk speaker grilles?

thanks for the help!

[rjdmmfl1]

Hey guys (and gals)

I just purchased a JBL GTO1204BP subwoofer. I will be getting a JBL amp as well sometime soon. I got some issues though. I know it would be a good idea to upgrade my Bose factory deck; but the problem is I want to retain the the stock bluetooth and steering wheel controls, not to mention the XM radio and 6-disc changer; my understanding is there isn't an aftermarket system out there that will be compatible (unless the factory 3.5 nav system was installed). All I want is a little more OOMPH from my system. This is my first car, and my first system. I've known many friends who have had crazy *** systems...but like I said, just a little more OOMPH for me, nothing crazy for showing off.

I know I will require a converter that will bypass the factory Amp/System...other than that...what are your thoughts on a capacitor? Good idea or not really required?

Here is the sub:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Q...O12BP

Here is the amp I will be getting:

http://www.bestbuy.ca/catalog/...20103

Installation will be from a car audio shop...NOT BESTBUY.

Any suggestions or advice will help...

some questions I have are;

- Will I be taking full advantage of the sub's power even though I'll be using the factory deck?

- The amp I am going to buy; will IT take full advantage of the sub's power? (I will not be upgrading the sub)

Thanks Alot!

In regards to your amp , do you know what it actually puts out RMS. By that I mean, does your amp come with a birth sheet? Rockford fosgate amps and subs are always underrated, whereas most other companies overrate their amps.

So, although your sub says it can handle 300RMS, the fact that is's 500 peak means it may comfortably want only 250 or so watts RMS.

Likewise, although your amp may state 204 watts RMS, the birth sheet may state that its more like 240 or 250. In this case, it could turn out that the two are matched perfectly. However, if the reported numbers on your amp are overrated, and the reported numbers on your sub are underrated (regarding RMS power) then as everyone stated, you may be underpowering the sub!

In any case, it won't sound bad, but depending on the real RMS if it as a factory birth sheet

[notaverage]

Is BOSS any good for car amplifiers?

I am looking at the BOSS GT1000M amplifier, which is rated at 200 watts RMS @ 4ohms.

It doesn't give ratings for 2 ohm operation, but I called Boss Audio, and they said the amp is operable at 2 ohms, and will double it's output.

Any comments on this?

[rjdmmfl1]

Is BOSS any good for car amplifiers?

I am looking at the BOSS GT1000M amplifier, which is rated at 200 watts RMS @ 4ohms.

It doesn't give ratings for 2 ohm operation, but I called Boss Audio, and they said the amp is operable at 2 ohms, and will double it's output.

Any comments on this?

If an amp doesn't state that its stable at a certain ohm, then its for a reason. Some amps are even 1 ohm stable, but no audiophile would suggest running an amp at 1 ohm, even if its stated to be stable.

In regards to Boss Audio and their amplifiers, i don't like rating many companies because I don't want folks to think I'm blasting their equipment. So I'll say this, JL AUDIO and Rockford Fosgate make some of the best AMPS and SUBS in the business, period! Not saying that they are the only ones, but when it comes to top end systems, they have some of the best stuff around.

However, in addition to their great stuff, they also have OK stuff. The problem with many of the other companies out there is that they do not value efficiency and quality! They try to achieve power and end up cutting corners in the process, and what you end up with is "good" equipment, not great equipment. If you campare the efficiency of JL and RF compared to many other companies, the others just don't compare.

So, if economy is what you have in mind, than I could list out 5,6,7,8 or 9 brands that are all of equal quality. But if effieciency, and quality are 1st on your list, then no, I wouldn't go with Boss Audio! That's just my .02, I am by no means an expert in car audio and video, I am merely a hobbyist of 10 years.

Also, unfortunately, the only way to really know the difference between subs and woofers is to hear them in a vehicle. Its only after hearing a lot of systems, and helping folks install a number of systems have I been able to really tell the difference between bad, ok, good and great amps and subs.

Put it like this, I could give you all the specs in the world when it comes to HD TV's, but it isn't until you go to best buy, and see all the displays on the wall can you really tell the difference!

[notaverage]

Thanks for the reply.

Boss Audio has some good specs on their amp, but you are right, they are just good specs, the amp may not be of good quality. If I don't return the amp, I may just pass it to my gf

[prlwhitecoupe]

Thanks for keeping the post alive guys!

So Dr. Feelgood

I got a question for you; I am considering purchasing the following Amp...it will run my sub upto 424watts RMS @ 4 ohms. My sub is 300 watts RMS @ 4 Ohms.

The amp im getting is:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com....html

Also, what is your opinion on JBL vs. Alpine amps? I've scoped out an equal amp that is an Alpine, same wattage (400 watts @ 4 ohms) at the same price...but in terms of quality...which is better?

Finally, since I have the bose system, I will need the line converter...like I imagine you had to get installed in your car by Scosche...what EXACTLY is the purpose of this? I know it will divert or prevent your factory amp from distorting/cutting off the bass to protect the speakers?...is that all?

Will it be possible to find an amp that will not require this line converter?? BTW I went to futureshop today to inquire what the installation procedure will require...just so I knew and the guy suggested this device to compensate for the factory amp:

http://www.futureshop.ca/catal...catid=

Thanks for your help!

BTW my Sub fit the trunk...but I've got no space left...I will take some pics tmorrow and see what you guys think....I love the enclosure...but I'm not sure if it's going to be practical in emergency situations if I need to get to the spare....

PS - How hard was it wire your system? how long did it take? I am considering doing the install myself, I don't trust ANYONE with the interior and I rather do it myself. I'm pretty confident I can do it...I just need some tips and advice about running the wires cleanly more than anything.
Modified by prlwhitecoupe at 2:45 AM 2/2/2008

[dangeris]

There are a variety of amps out in the market that both have low level and high level inputs. All depends what you're looking for. Obviously the latter will not need RCAs. All the amps that I have bought in the past came with high level inputs so I would imagine 8 out of 10 amps out in the market today will have those...but I could be wrong. I guess you'll need to do your research and ask a lot of questions even if its directed to the manufacturer.

As for running your wires.... ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS run your power on one side of the vehicle and run the RCAs (if you're going that route) on the other side of the vehicle or as far away from the power line. If not, you'll get humming that will annoy the crap out of you! As for your remote wire, I'm not quite sure where to hook that up too. I would imagine you'd have to run that back up to the HU so the amp goes on when the stereo is powered.

Does anyone out there have any insight on this?

[rjdmmfl1]

I should start chraging by the word naww, just jokng...

in regards to JBL, i think their higher end pructs are pretty good. I've heard a system or two with jbl components, not nearly enough for me to make a truely educated comment though.

in regards to that little device, no, not necessary. this is th thing... the scoche slc-4 (fai-3) does a couple of things.

1. if you are hooking an aftermarket deck to you factory bose system, it allows you to dial down the output from the deck to match the volume level of your amp, and interior speakers. without this unit, when you turn on the aftermarket deck, your volume will be very loud at like volume level 10, and will distort if you go much higher.

If you don't have an aftermarket deck, then the only reason you would need it is to bypass the bose amp when going to the woofers.

There are a variety of amps out in the market that both have low level and high level inputs. All depends what you're looking for. Obviously the latter will not need RCAs. All the amps that I have bought in the past came with high level inputs so I would imagine 8 out of 10 amps out in the market today will have those...but I could be wrong.

Dangeris, this is true, but if you use the high level inputs, you will have to splice the wires going from the factory deck to the amp high level inputs. If you don't, you will lose volume to your rear speakers. If you do, you are essentially connecting the high level inputs to the same wires going to the factory amp, thus defeating the purpose. Again, you gotta keep in mind the factory amp.

So, the line out converter ALSO has rca outputs, and you could use these to connect to your amp.

I hope that all made sense!

As for running your wires.... ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS run your power on one side of the vehicle and run the RCAs (if you're going that route) on the other side of the vehicle or as far away from the power line. If not, you'll get humming that will annoy the crap out of you! As for your remote wire, I'm not quite sure where to hook that up too. I would imagine you'd have to run that back up to the HU so the amp goes on when the stereo is powered.

Dangeris, your response was spot on! That is always a good idea on how to run the wires. Also, YES, the remote wire will need to be run from the remote turn on wire on the factory harness all the way back to the amp. I can't recall the wire color off the top of my head, but by now, there should be some wiring diagrams for the A/C floating around on the net!

[notaverage]

Dangeris, this is true, but if you use the high level inputs, you will have to splice the wires going from the factory deck to the amp high level inputs. If you don't, you will lose volume to your rear speakers. If you do, you are essentially connecting the high level inputs to the same wires going to the factory amp, thus defeating the purpose. Again, you gotta keep in mind the factory amp.

So, the line out converter ALSO has rca outputs, and you could use these to connect to your amp.

I hope that all made sense!

You confused me

I figured splicing the wires and hooking them up to my hi level input amp would be ok.
Modified by notaverage at 10:57 AM 2/2/2008

[dangeris]

You confused me

I figured splicing the wires and hooking them up to my hi level input amp would be ok.

Don't be confused young padawan! Just get the amp that you want and make sure the RMS of the amp is slightly more than the RMS of the sub, get line out converters, a set of good quality RCAs and hook everything up. Remember what I said about separating your power from your RCAs or you'll get humming.

JL makes great amps and subs IMO but the best set of speakers I've ever heard and listened to are a set of FoCals components

[vi3t89]

any1 have any idea where i can get like sub enclosures on the sides of the trunk to fit like 2 10 inches ? so the whole trunk space is still available for use

[rjdmmfl1]

JL makes great amps and subs IMO but the best set of speakers I've ever heard and listened to are a set of FoCals components

he asked about jbl.. JL is a great company, jbl is a slight step down imo

[XxXSnake23XxX]

ask a shop to do a custom encloserit shouldn't be more then 200

[rjdmmfl1]

ask a shop to do a custom encloserit shouldn't be more then 200

if i understand him correctly, i think he means fiberglass. its the only way to get around the contours... if he's talking fiberglass, that'll be like $200 for each enclosure....

r you trying to get enclosures like the ones chosmo has?zerothread/272152

[dangeris]

I don't think any one has come out with those yet but that's exactly what I'm wanting to do. The only concerns that I have is the total amount of cubic feet. My Kappa 10.1s require 1.9 sq.ft of airspace. Subs installed in less than what is required for airspace sounds very hollow.

[vi3t89]

yeahh thats what im looking for

[nifty]

I've finally made some choices about a sub woofer for my a/c and I just thought I would share what I've learned along they way.

The clearance is definitely 12" tops if you are going to put in a box under the rear shelf.

You and me are in the same boat I also have the tech package, so I am planning on using an amp with high level speaker inputs so I don't have to buy a hi-lo converter and the intaller doesn't have to go into the dash to hook up the amp.

I don't have to power tools to build the sub box myself, so I was planning on buying the box below from sonicelectronix. At a 11.5" height, it should fit in the back of my trunk pretty snug, AND it's very cheap, cheaper than if I made my box myself.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com....html

I came very close to buying this box since it was so cheap and it was the only one that had the proper dimensions. However, when I called to ask if it was made of 5/8" or 3/4" mdf they referred me to the manufacturers website which was gone, and they also gave me the phone number which was out of service. IMO the box is far too important to be taking a chance on, so I'm just having some trusted car audio guys around here make me one.

As for running your wires.... ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS run your power on one side of the vehicle and run the RCAs (if you're going that route) on the other side of the vehicle or as far away from the power line. If not, you'll get humming that will annoy the crap out of you! As for your remote wire, I'm not quite sure where to hook that up too. I would imagine you'd have to run that back up to the HU so the amp goes on when the stereo is powered.

Does anyone out there have any insight on this?

Im not sure of the color of the wire either. But, Ive found the easiest way to run wires (power, rca's, or remotes) to the trunk is to pop out the cup holders in the back and use the good old wire hanger method to pull them to there from the front kick panels. Once you have them there then you use the hanger to get it to the trunk. Just thought I would throw that out there because it saved me a TON of time, not having to take out seats and door panels.

[notaverage]

I don't think any one has come out with those yet but that's exactly what I'm wanting to do. The only concerns that I have is the total amount of cubic feet. My Kappa 10.1s require 1.9 sq.ft of airspace. Subs installed in less than what is required for airspace sounds very hollow.

Will using polyfill (link below) fix the "hollow" problem for enclosures with less than the minimum required volume?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com....html

I'm thinking of putting a Kicker Comp VR 10" (which requires a minimum of 0.8 cubic feet of airspace in a sealed enclosure) into an enclosure with only 0.7 cubic feet of airspace. Anyone think it's possible to do it and make it sound good?

[prlwhitecoupe]

Thanks for the advice! And I'm gonna stick with the Re'Q; I've been hearing so many good things about it and reading alot of good reviews for it's purpose.....

[audtatious]

Will using polyfill (link below) fix the "hollow" problem for enclosures with less than the minimum required volume?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com....html

I'm thinking of putting a Kicker Comp VR 10" (which requires a minimum of 0.8 cubic feet of airspace in a sealed enclosure) into an enclosure with only 0.7 cubic feet of airspace. Anyone think it's possible to do it and make it sound good?

Maybe this will help

http://www.moodym.com/audio/fiber.html

[notaverage]

Maybe this will help

http://www.moodym.com/audio/fiber.html

THANK YOU!