installed intake man. and now car won't stay running

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
KC240RB
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Jul 12, 2008 8:45 am
Car: 1990 240 SX RB20DET

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So I installed the tophat intake manifold and ran all vacuum, fuel, and water lines to where they should. Only thing I can think of that is causing the car to not stay running is the hose that ran from the maf/filter pipe to the driverside valve cover. I didn't install this on the new setup. Thought I would be ok without running this. Does this act as a vacuum and helps with vacuum in the intake manifold? Seems like its fuel related, but I have gone over the fuel system a kabillion times. Here's a few pictures to show you what I have done...

Thanks...





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nizmo zilvia
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Your MAF seems to be a bit too close to the turbo. Try another 6 inches or so.

KC240RB
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I'll give it a try.

CursedGTR
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I have had the MAF right on the turbo in the past without any issue whatsoever.

I have toi ask though, did you put your IACV on the new set up with proper sized hose?? I cannot see it in the picture but I would venture to say that you should check that (all I can see is what appears to be an orange silicon elbow). If it is on there, try adjusting it. If it is not on there than you should put it on or find another wany to get suitable airflow into your motor at idle.

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brizanden
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nizmo zilvia wrote:Your MAF seems to be a bit too close to the turbo. Try another 6 inches or so.
yeah didnt i just see a thread with a guy saying he figured out his maf was going crazy cuase the turbulance from the turbo was coming back to the maf?

KC240RB
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Car: 1990 240 SX RB20DET

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CursedGTR wrote:I have had the MAF right on the turbo in the past without any issue whatsoever.

I have toi ask though, did you put your IACV on the new set up with proper sized hose?? I cannot see it in the picture but I would venture to say that you should check that (all I can see is what appears to be an orange silicon elbow). If it is on there, try adjusting it. If it is not on there than you should put it on or find another wany to get suitable airflow into your motor at idle.
I am running the exact same size hose as what I removed. 5/8" I believe...

I am going to try the MAF a little further out and see if it does anything and then pull the IACV off and clean it up.

KC240RB
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Car: 1990 240 SX RB20DET

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Pulled the IACV off and cleaned it... car still just starts then coughs a few times then dies.

Extended the maf away from the turbo 8" further... again car still starts then coughs a few times and dies.

I want you guys to check out how I T-ed my hoses off. I T-ed the blow-off valve in with the fuel pressure regulator and the hose that runs from the canister on drivers side (not sure what this is called).

Also maybe you guys will see something I don't.














KC240RB
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Car: 1990 240 SX RB20DET

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So what happens is... I prime the fuel pump a couple of times. Put the throttle all the way to the floor. Start the car. The car revs to 750 rpms, falling all over itself. This lasts for about 3-4 seconds. Then the car dies. Best I have done (2 times) is get the car to rev to 3,500 rpms where it stayed for about 5 seconds and then it stalled out and completely dies. I am baffled. I have checked all my wiring, hoses, etc.

CursedGTR
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Are all of your grommets on correctly with no air leaks whatsoever??? I would check every inch of the intercooler piping to make sure you are not letting air escape somewhere. I have had similar problems myself in the past and 9 times out of 10 it was a grommet.

Check all the hoses for damage and proper connection

Check the TPS for proper adjustment.

Make sure the ignitor box has that little ground properly grounded

Check the MAF to make sure it is actually functioning.

Make sure that you are using the correct MAF. I have see guys here in Japan slap a Z32 MAF on an RB25DET and get all pissy when their cars don't work.

After all those steps, I am lost without being there to look at things in person.

KC240RB
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Car: 1990 240 SX RB20DET

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Much appreciation. I am going to go back over every square inch of it tomorrow. Has to be air escaping somewhere.

I had to extend the TPS sensors and MAF wires. So I am going to pull them back a part and make sure they are 100% correct. I know they have a good connection being that I soldered everything. Maybe I crisscrossed wires somewhere.

KC240RB
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Car: 1990 240 SX RB20DET

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Went over the whole install. Found out I left out a bolt to the intake. This allows the air to escape out. I am going to install the bolt in a bit and check to see if that small hole was causing the problem.

UPDATE: I played with the IACV screw and TPS adjustments and now the car is idling to 1,400 RPMs for 4 seconds then dies. If I were to try and throttle up during the 4 seconds it would fall immediately on it's face. Went over all hoses and connections and all is snug.

Would being that the car is still on stock tune have anything to do with it. I have a Greddy EMU to go on it but still waiting on the plug-n-play harness to show up. Also I figured the car would at least idle with the new setup. Then when I knew the install was good I would add the Greddy emu.
Modified by KC240RB at 8:52 AM 9/28/2008

Bluefire
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I think theres something wrong with your hose routing for the iacv and air regulator... Can you make a diagram on how everything is hooked up?

-Bluefire

KC240RB
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You guys are great with all your help. I went over everything and used the search feature on what it could possibly be.

After checking all hoses, connections, and electrical wires, I found I had hooked up the fuel pump wire (black w/yellow stripe) to a 12V source and this was causing the fuel pump to prime on for a few seconds when turning the key to the on position. I attached it to a ground source and the pump came on continuous when the key was turned to the on position. Car fired right up and idle perfect. So after 20 minutes of warming up and going back over stuff I took it for a test ride. Car pulls much better and also runs quite a bit richer than the stock setup. 11.4 air/fuel under boost and right before I shift I see 11.1 air fuel. Now I am excited to get the Greddy emu on and upgrade the turbo.

Thanks!


Modified by KC240RB at 12:11 PM 9/28/2008

240z4u
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Car: '95 Nissan 240SX

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Something doesn't look right with your PCV setup. Do some searching on catch can setups. Its beaten like a dead horse and I don't feel like getting to far into this.

Evan

KC240RB
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240z4u wrote:Something doesn't look right with your PCV setup. Do some searching on catch can setups. Its beaten like a dead horse and I don't feel like getting to far into this.

Evan
Cool. I will look into that. I've only seen pictures but haven't looked any further into them. Thanks.

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Carl H
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evan was on to something...your pcv is pulling in massive ammounts of unmetered air due to one side of your valve covers being exposed to open air.you need to either a) block off the hose going to the manifold from the valve covers and vent to atmosphere or b)add a tube from the exhaust cam valve cover to your turbo inlet tube.

Darius
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I was just going to ask if there was some kind of check valve on the line from the valve cover to the intake manifold. If not, there's your unmetered air source.

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Carl H
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the pcv valve keeps air out of the intake mani under boost and keeps the block from getting pressuized but under vacuum the pcv valve is open and drawing in unmetered air.

240z4u
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Carl H wrote:the pcv valve keeps air out of the intake mani under boost and keeps the block from getting pressuized but under vacuum the pcv valve is open and drawing in unmetered air.
Thanks Carl, I was too tired (read lazy) to explain it last night.

Certainly this is your problem.

Evan

dwnshfter
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sorry to hijack the thread, but mine is the same way. shift_garage, the place that ripped me off (more on that soon) said it was not an issue.whe i am totally ougt of boost, it lugs a little, in boost its fine, and at full bost, it cuts out really bad....would this be my issue too? what all needs to be done? ust install a pcv valve or does it need to be run into the intake or.....

KC240RB
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Car: 1990 240 SX RB20DET

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Carl H wrote:the pcv valve keeps air out of the intake mani under boost and keeps the block from getting pressuized but under vacuum the pcv valve is open and drawing in unmetered air.
Thanks Carl. The car was kind of finicky when coming off the throttle. So like you said I blocked off that exhaust side valve cover.

KC240RB
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dwnshfter wrote:sorry to hijack the thread, but mine is the same way. shift_garage, the place that ripped me off (more on that soon) said it was not an issue.whe i am totally ougt of boost, it lugs a little, in boost its fine, and at full bost, it cuts out really bad....would this be my issue too? what all needs to be done? ust install a pcv valve or does it need to be run into the intake or.....
Mine wasn't cutting out under full boost. Mine was just fine. Only thing I can think of is when your under full boost you may be having spark blow out. If you havent checked your spark plugs, I would check them and see what they are gapped at. But I also dont want to be telling you thats it. It could be a number of things. Thats just what comes to mind.

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BoostFab
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dwnshfter wrote:sorry to hijack the thread, but mine is the same way. shift_garage, the place that ripped me off (more on that soon) said it was not an issue.whe i am totally ougt of boost, it lugs a little, in boost its fine, and at full bost, it cuts out really bad....would this be my issue too? what all needs to be done? ust install a pcv valve or does it need to be run into the intake or.....
is your BOV recirculated ? that's probably your issue there.

Darius
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Is there a PCV valve between the IM and intake valve cover? If not, I wouldn't be capping the exhaust side vent on the valve cover because the crankcase will pressurize under boost. You can probably start it with the cap on to see if it idles, but I wouldn't drive it until you get this sorted out.

dwnshfter
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not even a little bit. shift_garage said it didnt need to be.

Darius
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I think you mean shi_t_garage

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Carl H
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as stated before capping is ok for diagnosing the problem but you need to run that exhaust side nipple to the turbine inlet...provides suction for when the engine is under boost and when the pcv valve closes.

dwnshfter
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so can i see a pic of how it is supposed to be ran? has anyone else had an issue with shift_garage? i have been trying to get ahold of them cause they owe me a few hundred dollars (they didnt do some of the work they charged me for) and they wont answer their phone.....

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BoostFab
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dwnshfter wrote:not even a little bit. shift_garage said it didnt need to be.
unless your car was tuned for open-to-atmos bov, you need to recirculate your bov.

dwnshfter
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is there a kit i can buy to do it or what? the 500 dollar kit they sodl me was supposed to be custom and 3', i got a ****ty 2.5 ebay kit that they put on so bad that it rubs the front tire. is there a peice of pipe i can buy with a small hose on it i can splice into the ic pipe i have and use rubber hose to recirc it?


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