Installed headgasket problem, need some help (pics)

[kota2240]

I ordered a 1.2mm cometic headgasket with the part number that i found in the FAQ here. I had the head resurfaced, the guy said my block was clean as hell. I followed the FSM when installing the head. I put oil in the motor and noticed that it was leaking from the side of the headgasket WITHOUT the car running. I tq them to 80lbs. AND I noticed that the headgsket does not have all the openings like the block does, is that a problem? take a look at the pic. whats going on. Is my TQ wrench ****ed.

[rico05]

Well, I have yet to see a motor that did not have some of the holes blocked. When compared to the stock gasket, my Cometic was identical.



Good luck, there seems to be a few of us fighting headgaskets the last few weeks.

[float_6969]

Not to rain on anybody's parade, but it seems to me like the recent rash of headgasket problems seems to be all associated with the cometic HG. I'm running an OEM HG, w/ARP headstuds. I haven't had any sealing problems of any sort and my motor is high compression and has seen as much as 16psi w/o any problems.

It looks like it was installed correctly, the only other things that would cause that would be bad mating surfaces (did you get the block AND the head resurfaced?), stretched headbolts (I don't THINK the OEM headbolts are torque to yeild, but I could be wrong), bolts torqued to the wrong specs, or torqued improperly, or the gasket could be bad, which I highly doubt.

[c-rad]

It looks like it was installed correctly, the only other things that would cause that would be bad mating surfaces (did you get the block AND the head resurfaced?), stretched headbolts (I don't THINK the OEM headbolts are torque to yeild, but I could be wrong), bolts torqued to the wrong specs, or torqued improperly, or the gasket could be bad, which I highly doubt.

I vote for unsatisfactory block surface.

[float_6969]

It was my first symptom because its the most likely.

When you are replacing a Head Gasket on a motor with a head and block that are made of dissimilar metals (ie aluminum and iron) you HAVE to have BOTH the head and block resurfaced. This isn't optional!

[r34 gtr]

thats gotta be it, unless the machine shop did a bad job of resurfacing the head. if its leaking oil while the engine isnt running, its gotta be one hell of a gap.

- Tim

[originalsin]

from wat i remember dee saying, you need to have both head and block resurfaced when you are installing a metal hg, the oem ones are a bit more forgiving i guess?

[kota2240]

i guess i better get the block done

[c-rad]

i guess i better get the block done

Yeah and it sucks because the entire motor needs to be torn down to the bare block(no pistons, crank, bearings, etc) so it can be cleaned out afterwards.

[srdrps13]

damn that sucks... how much does a resurfacing job for both the block and head cost?

[c-rad]

damn that sucks... how much does a resurfacing job for both the block and head cost?

I only paid $30 for each...so $60 total.

[capwred]

like tim said you would have to have a hell of a gap for it to leak when putting oil in.it would have to be visible i would think.are you sure your head was matted all the way to the block?

[pulsar gtr]

I am voting for bad head bolts, I have seen it on other engines not a ca18det, where the bolts will stretch a bit and no matter how tight you get them it is never enough.

Isuggest that before you tear you engine apart, get yourself a new set of head bolts and replace the current ones and give it a try.

Good luck,

RafiPULSAR GTR

[f s t caz]

Tomei Super Gromet Gasket + decked block + milled head + ARP head studs = no problems for me.

Did you guys check your block with a straight edge before you put the head on? Did you check your head before/after getting it milled?

[kota2240]

I hate taking things back apart since i basically replaced the bearings and most of the seals. Now i might get my motor running by the second week of april. Im going to tear the whole motor back apart on thursday. Thanks for your help, this time im going to get the block decked

[rico05]

Or just get an OEM gasket.

[Kouks]

I'm with him, since you didnt do it right the first time, buy an OEM gasket, with new headbolts and put everything back together.

[kota2240]

i borrowed a tq wrench from my company (brand new never used). I found what my problem was. The head bolts were off by ATLEAST 10lbs. I guess my old tq wrench needs a service. I put everything back together and no leaks, I also checked the block with a straight edge and feeler gauge and it checks out.

[srdrps13]

nice good luck with the project

[float_6969]

LOL, that's kinda funny actually. Were you using one of the "click" style ones? If so I HIGHLY recommend getting the needle style. It's basically impossible for them to read incorrectly. I've had mine since I was 16 (that's 8 years ago) and it still works like a champ. It's a 1/2" drive, so I can only use it for the big stuff. I've got the click style for the 3/8" drive, but I don't trust it for anything important (like headbolts/rodbolts, ect.)

[flohtingPoint]

LOL, that's kinda funny actually. Were you using one of the "click" style ones? If so I HIGHLY recommend getting the needle style. It's basically impossible for them to read incorrectly. I've had mine since I was 16 (that's 8 years ago) and it still works like a champ. It's a 1/2" drive, so I can only use it for the big stuff. I've got the click style for the 3/8" drive, but I don't trust it for anything important (like headbolts/rodbolts, ect.)

Our C-130's, C-17's and C-5's are all repaired using click type tq wrenches here at Ramstein Air Base. Nothing wrong with them, they just need to be sent to PMEL for calibration every once in a while.