Install Walk-thru- Rear Strut Replacement - '95 240SX

ONLY for ADVANCED technical discussion about the 240sx!
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gtd65
Posts: 331
Joined: Mon Nov 25, 2002 11:24 am
Car: 1995 240SX SE
Location: Sarasota, FL & Galashiels, Scotland
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Decided to replace the rear struts as the rear right damper appeared to be slightly on the "bouncy" side by comparision to the left.

Got on the net and did some price comparisions and found that in this case RockAuto were cheaper by far, ordered a pair of Monro Sensa-Trac replacement struts (@ $ 83.52 shipped).

Didn't have a suspension coil compressor so headed down to Advance Autoparts to get one out using the tool loner scheme (@ $49.99)

First step is to remove the rear parcel shelf:



Put a couple of fingers underneath the middle section and just give it a bit of a tug upwards and the pop studs should give very easily:



You now have access to the stop of the struts once you pull off the covers:





Next step is to grab your socket wrench and a 12mm socket and undo the two nuts.

Time to jack up the car and remove the rear wheel:





Next step is to grab your socket wrench and a 17mm socket and undo the bottom nut holding on the strut assembly:





I just gave the bottom of the strut a light tap and it all came off easily enough.



Next step is to replace the strut - at this point I realised the strut bellows were totally shot.

Didn't have time to order at RockAuto (KYB are much cheaper) but sourced some Moogs at Advance Autoparts (with a pricematch to RockAuto) for @ $19.99 each side:



Now this is where the loner tool comes into play:



You only need to compress the spring enough to loosen the end nut from the strut - do not over compress the spring or you could be seriously injured if the clamp(s) slip off:



Next step is to remove the top nut from the strut – a special tool is included in the spring compressor kit but I used my own 14mm ratchet wrench in conjunction with the supplied tool:



Coil spring removed and laid alongside new strut insert:



Next step is to re-assemble the shock with the replacement strut insert and new strut bellow kit:









Next step is to replace the top nut on the strut – a new nut and washer was supplied in the Moog strut bellow kit:



Once this is completed slowly remove the tension on the spring compressors – this is another of those “you need 3 hands” type jobs but you’ll get there fairly quickly.

Next step is to slot the shock assembly back into the upper mount point – this is a fairly tricky job and I’d recommend you ask somebody to help at this stage to screw on the nuts (my GF obliged):



I had some difficulty getting the bottom mount of the strut to line up with the spring compressors removed, so a bit of Scottish ingenuity came into play with the help of my GF’s Saab 9-2x jack!

You may not feel comfortable with this method and it may not be the correct way to do this task but I just slowly cranked up the jack and the bottom mount popped right into the correct position within a minute or two:



17mm bolt was replaced and the wheel fitted - that’s the right hand side completed!





Thats about it really - no major drama at all other than a very stiff 17mm bolt on the left side which eventually came off with a bit of persuasion

In the real world assuming you have the following tools:

17mm socket12mm socket14mm wrenchSpring compressor & special tool in kit22mm wrench to adjust spring compressor (I used my lug wrench)HammerSpare car-jack

You should be able to replace each strut in approximately 45~60mins which isn't too bad really

In reality it took me around an hour to do the right side and probably 20~30 mins on the left once I'd figured out the easiest methods

You should also ideally be wearing some form of safety shoes or boots unlike my good self wearing very un-sensible sandals

Modified by gtd65 at 7:10 PM 4/16/2009
Modified by gtd65 at 7:12 PM 4/16/2009


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gtd65
Posts: 331
Joined: Mon Nov 25, 2002 11:24 am
Car: 1995 240SX SE
Location: Sarasota, FL & Galashiels, Scotland
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"shocking" not one comment!

newboy1
Posts: 14
Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2007 1:20 pm
Car: INFINITI J30

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I did the same thing for my 96 infiniti j30. However, I can not install the strut as you use the jack to hold the strut and move up to the lower bolt. I think my strut has 2-3cm lower than the position of low bolt. I feal the linker bolt will tough the strut when I use jack to press the strut up. I need some help if you can conform the same situation when you install the strut back.

Thank you for your nice work.

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gtd65
Posts: 331
Joined: Mon Nov 25, 2002 11:24 am
Car: 1995 240SX SE
Location: Sarasota, FL & Galashiels, Scotland
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newboy1 wrote:I did the same thing for my 96 infiniti j30. However, I can not install the strut as you use the jack to hold the strut and move up to the lower bolt. I think my strut has 2-3cm lower than the position of low bolt. I feal the linker bolt will tough the strut when I use jack to press the strut up. I need some help if you can conform the same situation when you install the strut back.

Thank you for your nice work.
I think you will need to use the spring compressor to shorten the length of the complete strut assembly.

Once you adjust it to the correct length it should fit in properly

I should have done it that way really but it was easy for me to use the jack.

j-30 green machine
Posts: 19
Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2008 5:24 am
Car: 94 j-30 /95 saab 9000 /91 ford crown vic /2002 lexus 3

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i replaced my strut assemblies, i use 2 jacks , one to raise the vehicle high so as to let the wheel area droop extra low , bolted the strut assembly from the top first, used another hydraulic jack to raise the rotor /slash drum area up to meet the strut assembly, bolted it in 23 mins ( causee i was on my cell phone) 2 jacks both hydraulic---i know it s strange

j-30 green machine
Posts: 19
Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2008 5:24 am
Car: 94 j-30 /95 saab 9000 /91 ford crown vic /2002 lexus 3

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note never messed with springs at all, wasn't necessary with the two hydraulic jack method, hope that helps

newboy1
Posts: 14
Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2007 1:20 pm
Car: INFINITI J30

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thank you for your reply. I think I only can use on spring compressor to short the strut, it dose not work well. Do I need two spring compressor to work? The space is not big for me. Could you can confirm that the strut is 2-3cm lower than the low bolt position?

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gtd65
Posts: 331
Joined: Mon Nov 25, 2002 11:24 am
Car: 1995 240SX SE
Location: Sarasota, FL & Galashiels, Scotland
Contact:

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newboy1 wrote:thank you for your reply. I think I only can use on spring compressor to short the strut, it dose not work well. Do I need two spring compressor to work? The space is not big for me. Could you can confirm that the strut is 2-3cm lower than the low bolt position?
Yes my strut was lower than the bolt position - that's why I "cheated" using a jack from another car in order to line it up.

If you can get hold of a spare jack from a friends car and take your time it should be possible to use the same method as me - but if you are not confident don't do it

Maybe if you can take a pic and post it here we can see if something is different?

96240sxs14
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed May 29, 2013 9:37 pm
Car: 96 Nissan 240sx

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So I was installing tokico d spec all around. Had very lil issues until I went to remove the passenger side strut. I broke off the 17mm bolt that attaches the strut to the spindle. What do I do now?? Do I replace the whole spindle? Can I pound that all the way out and replace it, or should I take it off and have a machine shop drill, and tap it out? Thanks in advance!


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