Inspection Time (EGR,CEL,and Emmissions will fail) HELP PLEASE

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Chaotic_Warlord
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Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 8:31 am
Car: Black 5 speed Swapped 1995 240sx
Location: Killadelphia PA
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Ok I have a 95 S14 with a KA in it and I am coming up for inspection in Novemeber. I have a Megan Racing header, downpipe, and test pipe and I need some advice. It's a Delaware inspection if that helps. With the Header I have the OEM EGR pipe that runs from the header to the EGR valve doesn't reach I can have it in one or the other but not both. Is it possible to create a new EGR pipe using male ends and some high temp steel braided hose so that the EGR still gets the necessary air flow to shut of the CEL light? Also I think I read somewhere that if you can fake out the ECU with by wiring up 2 resistors in series with the EGR wiring, is this true and does anyone know where I can find a writeup on how to do it.

I still have my original header that I guess I could mount back but I don't think it will bolt up to the aftermarket downpipe, this way the pipe won't be an issue but this would lead to an exhaust leak on the header - downpipe side. Which leads me to my next question.

How the hell do you find an exhaust leak and how do you fix it without welding it closed? Will exhaust tape around the joint points fix it, It needs to be a psuedo temporary fix since I do have a test pipe and will be getting a CAT for inspection purposes.

I'll pass the bulk of inspection but am a little worried about the emissions side of it. Any help or advice would be helpful thanks.


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Chaotic_Warlord
Posts: 4804
Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 8:31 am
Car: Black 5 speed Swapped 1995 240sx
Location: Killadelphia PA
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Bump

Grover
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Joined: Fri Sep 14, 2007 5:10 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX hatchback

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As long as your car is OBD I the CEL is not even looked at. The inspectors will put the sniffer in your tailpipe to check low and high RPM emissions. I say find a way to rig up the EGR but don't worry about trying to get the CEL to turn off.

Exhaust leaks are funny like that. If it's a flanged joint then make sure both flanges are flat and get a new gasket if you can. If you can't get a new gasket or just don't want to, then you might try high temp. RTV. It's the stuff that has copper in it and it comes in a copper colored tube. The stuff works as long as you apply it correctly, i.e. clean both surfaces, then run a 1/4in bead on one side and let it get a little tacky before you assemble. If you have a slip joint then the exhaust wrap will probably work well temporarily.


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