Injector questions

[agent4573]

I've read up quite a bit on the injectors in the Wiki, but have a few questions. I don't have my TT donor motor yet so I don't know what year it will be, but these should fit correct a 93-96 intake right?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-1993-95- ... 988wt_1124

If for some reason I get a 90-92 donor motor, I can throw in this kit from concept Z and still be ok right?

http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart ... 0305124809

I'm just trying to see where the price difference comes in on the 300 degree or CZP adapters that range in the 900-1400 depending on if you want the billet fuel rail included. Can I actually get 740's on my car for 330 bucks or do I need to spend a grand to do this right?

[nissanfreak12]

If you get the 90-92, you will need an adapter, they work just fine.

Word of advice, do not go cheap on injetors. JECS are good for stock injectors 270CC and 370CC, but you need to get Nismo's if you want to go to 740CC. There are some of the cheaper ones that redrill the injectors and that causes all sorts of issues with tuning it properly.

[po8pimp]

Sorry to piggyback on this thread, however it is Injector related. You mentioned that you have read a lot about the imfamous injector issues, can you elaborate or point me in the right direction to some good reading material and solutions for preventive maintenance? I don't have a TT, however I am very meticulous when it comes to my cars so I want the best at the most reasonable cost.

[agent4573]

I thought I've seen a bunch of people running the Deutchworks injectors and saying they work fine, but those are all re-drills as well. If they drill them and flow test/flow match a set of injectors, where does the issue come from? I'm not trying to argue that issues don't happen, I'm just trying to understand where the risks lie. I'm not putting this in street vehicle, so if its to keep the idle right, or just off idle drivability, then I can live with those risks. If its goign to blow up my engine at WOT thats a whole different ballgame.


As far as reading goes:
http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/f ... 1-2-3.html - a good mod to extend the life of 90-94 injectors

http://z32.wikispaces.com/Fuel+Injector - good overall summary of which injectors are what.

[z32loverboy]

It depends on your use. If I was building a race engine I wouldn't cheap out on the fuel system. Run it lean at full throttle and bad things tend to happen. We ran redrills once in a KA24der (supercharged) and we had flow tested injectors and had cylinder three lean out and it blew a hole in the side of a forged piston the size of my pinky. the head and supertech valves were toasted so bad that it had to be scrapped. The block was also so pitted that it wasn't really usable, it would've had to be sleeved. Not really sure why they failed but I've heard of that happening a decent bit with redrills. My advice is go ahead and drop the little bit more to get injectors that're made for the flow rate you need. Redrills may or my not work for you. Personally I wouldn't chance it.

[po8pimp]

how does this switched voltage mod benefit the injectors? Can someone explain better than it just works?

that is some good reading on the wiki page. How to test injectors was very informative.

[agent4573]

The issue seems to be that the main coil corrodes due to the ethanol in the fuel. Keeping the coil charged all the time just promotes the corrosion. Same principle applies to rust on almost anything. If you put a nail in salt water its going to rust. If you hook that nail to a battery and run a constant voltage across it, it'd going to rust a lot faster. By applying the power to the injectors only when the car is running, it slows the rate the coil corrodes and hopefully prolongs the life of thr coil.

[po8pimp]

So now things make more sense. The constant voltage is what you are getting rid of with this mod. If only this was said in the beginning of the how to. Pretty damn smart whomever figured this mod out. Gonna mess with mine this weekend when I do the spark plugs.