Injector help

Post by **Q_SHIP** » Wed Jan 26, 2005 7:24 am

I just got my injectors from natsoundup. 2 of the 4 have the plastic tips broken off of them. Are they still useable or shold I toss them? Also, What should they ohm at? If they Ohm out good, Should I assume that they are in perfect running shape?

Post by **metaverse3** » Wed Jan 26, 2005 7:56 am

if you mean the pintle caps that look like the one below the the red ring (lower righthand side) in this picture here

then you can replace them from any fuel injector service shop..they do sell them..cheap. I have broken them before on nissan injectors and replaced them..just snap and click.
Modified by metaverse3 at 6:07 PM 1/26/2005

Post by **Q_SHIP** » Wed Jan 26, 2005 8:01 am

Yea, I guess that would be it but mine look differnt than that. Mine cover the whole tip.

Post by **metaverse3** » Wed Jan 26, 2005 8:06 am

Probably looks like this

You might have to check with the injector shop on that..might have to be pressed on.. regardless, it can be done..

Post by **Q_SHIP** » Wed Jan 26, 2005 9:12 am

One more question. Anybody have any advice for getting them out of the fuel rail? And if they ohm out good, should I assume they are good? Specs? Thanks.

Post by **metaverse3** » Wed Jan 26, 2005 9:51 am

Injectors should OHM out at 10-14 ohms.. Make sure you have a working DMM. I also know it is hard to use the DMM test leads to make proper contact with the terminals..get a reading a couple of times to make sure..

Whatever you do, don't lose your patience.. I had them soaked in penetrating oil for a bit and placed on a bench vise. The theory is to twist and turn while pulling slightly upwards. Look at the top of the injectors..you will see holes on both side. I used a curved needle nose snap-on plier that grabs it like tongs and proceeded to spin them around 360 clockwise like a record (cue 80's song) and anti-clockwise.. while spraying penetrating fluid where it seated around the rail..Slowly pulling upwards. Budget a couple of hours..you will get them off, trust me.. I have worked on 3 nissan rails and got them off this way. Beware, they do break easy since it is made of plastic after all... Once you get them out, use brand new o-rings and a bit of vaseline..they will snap back into the rails and lock into the o-ring grooves.. make sure you spin them around to make sure the o-rings are seated in the grooves and are not pinched..

YouTube · Post by **Jesda** » Wed Jan 26, 2005 10:05 am

Q_SHIP wrote:One more question. Anybody have any advice for getting them out of the fuel rail? And if they ohm out good, should I assume they are good? Specs? Thanks.

Pito suggested letting them soak in WD40 or some kind of grease. I didnt want to salvage them so I went at it with a flathead screwdriver.

Of course, I'm impatient.

Post by **DAEDALUS** » Wed Jan 26, 2005 10:58 am

If they ohm good that's only an indication that the wire winding is in good shape. It has nothing to do with the how clean or fouled they are on the inside. Pressurize the rail to 40psi off the car and jump the injectors to check their spray patterns. Time each injector volumetric flow and compare. 370cc each?

Post by **maxnix** » Wed Jan 26, 2005 11:19 am

metaverse3 wrote:Once you get them out, use brand new o-rings and a bit of vaseline....

Didn't texasoil caution against using petroleum lubricants on the O-rings?

Post by **elwesso** » Wed Jan 26, 2005 11:23 am

Dielectric grease would probably be the way to go.....

I remmeber Heath saying that KY jelly may be the way to go.....

Post by **metaverse3** » Wed Jan 26, 2005 12:35 pm

Huh ? Gasoline is petrol which is what flows through the injectors.. I fail to understand how petroleum jelly can be bad for a injector that is soaked in petrol to begin with. This is advice from my friend who is a 30+ year GM journeyman and corvette master mechanic. When you fire up that car, that vaseline will dissolve faster than you can think. Ideally silicone grease is the only thing to use....can be hard to find locally and expensive.. Di-electric grease is contact grease to prevent oxidation..not a lube product.

I'm more concerned about folks who cut corners by failing to replace the o-rings with an OEM car part and go to home depot, then post weeks later as to why they smell fuel and notice leaks around the rail. Not to mention misdiagnosis with the fuel pressure system where the Fuel pressure regulator has little or nothing to regulate. Another oversight is the filter on the injectors themself..no rips or tears and no dirt along with the most basic maintenance of changing fuel filters and flushing fuel tanks as needed. Whenever you pull a rail, always replace the hoses with high pressure fuel hoses. Nissan even has a specific install procedure where the hoses clamp on in one direction first and then another..at least on maxima's they do. I have done so many injector jobs on nissan's that I have it down to a science..

Post by **Q451990** » Wed Jan 26, 2005 12:57 pm

elwesso wrote:Dielectric grease would probably be the way to go.....

I remmeber Heath saying that KY jelly may be the way to go.....

Wasn't me... I've never even been to Ketucky to buy any of their jelly

Heath

Post by **Q_SHIP** » Wed Jan 26, 2005 1:00 pm

Should I literally let them sit in a pool of WD-40? All im doing now is randomly spraying them.
Modified by Q_SHIP at 3:17 PM 1/26/2005

Post by **Q451990** » Wed Jan 26, 2005 1:18 pm

I'd soak them as much as possible. Did you get the rail caps off easily enough? Also, I'd use the purple top injectors if at all possible... those are the newer ones that Lee had installed a couple of years ago.

Also, I just talked to Joe at Infiniti of Scottsdale, and the pintile caps are not available separately. I'd do a google search for "injector rebuilder" and check for a place called Python Injecton to see if you can buy caps from them.

Heath

Post by **3rd Q** » Wed Jan 26, 2005 9:38 pm

A bent nose vise grip plier is an invaluable help. Lock it on with just enough pressure to grip the top of the injector firmly, too much and you'll break the plastic. I gently rotate the injector back and forth while gently prying between the fuel rail and the vise-grip with a bladed screwdriver.They come right out. I've replaced 28 injectors between the 3 Qs and never had to soak them with anything. Remember to replace those awful oem screws on the cap with longer 5mm (I think) hex headed bolts. The oem screws are too short to grab the threads when you install. A thin fim of vaseline helps the o-rings seat properly. Just alternate back and forth frequently between the two blolts when tightening it down- it sucks to get the plenum all put back together only to see and smell fuel squirting out because of a pinched 0-ring .

Paul

Post by **pito11213** » Thu Jan 27, 2005 2:24 am

Yeah the OEM screws suck big time. Defiantely want to replace them. Just keep spraying the WD 40 and let it soak in and do as everyone else said and rock the injector side to side. Be patient

Post by **metaverse3** » Thu Jan 27, 2005 7:05 am

A lot of the issues for the screw center from using the wrong screwdriver to unscrew it. The screw is a bit deep so make sure you have a correct phillips bit that seats before going deep..usually a drywall or deckscrew bit will do the job. To get the screws off, get a center punch.. Get a small hammer and start tapping at the screw using the center punch from different directions. Put some penetrating fluid and keep on tapping.. You are trying to loosen up the the screw from the threads.. This is an old school tried and tested techniquie that always works.. I have never rounded off an injector cap screw by doing it this way. Being guys, we usually want to macguyver it, but, sometimes, you have to play by the rules

Post by **PoorManQ45** » Thu Jan 27, 2005 9:49 am

metaverse3 wrote:A lot of the issues for the screw center from using the wrong screwdriver to unscrew it. The screw is a bit deep so make sure you have a correct phillips bit that seats before going deep..usually a drywall or deckscrew bit will do the job.

It always helps to use a properly sized screwdriver.

Post by **texasoil** » Thu Jan 27, 2005 5:17 pm

The O rings used in fuel system service are Buna-N and completely resistant to any petroleum based material. (Actually they exhibit 5-10% volume swell in the ASTM lab test for swelling--and that is considered a good PASS) Use anything except anything that has 'ether' or 'ketone' anywhere in the list of ingredients. Those type solents WILL degrade the fuel system components.

Post by **PoorManQ45** » Thu Jan 27, 2005 5:56 pm

Hm... When I install O-rings, I usually just put a drop of oil on them. Then smear it around. Or grease if that's on hand.

Post by **vududoc** » Sat Nov 19, 2005 9:54 am

these helped me out a bit http://www.autozone.com/in_our...s.htm

just grabbed on to the 2 holes on the side and used a flat head.

i plopped the new injector in..replaced the cap and tightened it down a bit....gave it a couple of taps with an extension and hammer. then retorqued the screws...couple more taps and done! Thanx for a good thread.

Post by **Q45tech** » Sun Nov 20, 2005 6:00 am

The 10-14 ohms is to cover really cheap ohmeter with failing internal battery and various measurement temperatures. They should be 12 ohms {11.8-12.8} with good test equipment. After all each injector has the exact same number of wire turns [in winding].

I'll bet they measure +- 0.25 ohms [2%] at the factory [quality control].

The resistance tells you NOTHING about the spray pattern or the absolute spray volume for an individual opening time and psi when you buy USED......dirty/worn.

Post by **ardvarkus** » Wed Nov 30, 2005 11:23 am

quick question-

Is there any cheaper source for decent injectors, or is it still dealership? This would be for a 90Q

Last time it was $140 or so, with a new oring...

thx

A

Post by **Q45denver** » Wed Nov 30, 2005 2:34 pm

The pintle caps would not effect performance (not sure what purpose they serve other than to protect the pintle tip). Inoticed this special on the NICO site from a sponsor I recommend youconsider:

zerothread?id=138400 According to the website, they clean test and replacethe plastic caps for $9 each-(hard to beat). All the rebuilders sell caps and o-rings-they usually recommend that you send in the whole fuel rail. One reason is to protect the injectors in shipping and two so thay can install new o-rings and test them in the rail. It is always recommended to get the used ones ultrasonically cleaned and professionally tested.

I just did a search and came up with this link for a company that sells rebuilts with a lifetime warranty which might be a viable option. Personally I'm converting my 1990 Q to the updated 94-96 injectors.

http://store.yahoo.com/dpstore/322a1825.html

Personally I'm converting my 1990 Q to the updated 94-96 injectors since I'm tried of having to pull the plenum.

Also per this Chamber of Automotive Industries site only Nissan after 2004 were designed to run on 10% ethanol?

http://www.fcai.com.au/ethanol...mlber of Automotive Industries

Post by **Q45ver** » Thu Feb 08, 2018 4:56 pm

I am currently doing some major work on my G50 due to an intermittent miss finally developing into permanent. Upon reading and following the excellent threads herein, I determined that two injectors were bad. One with open circuit and a second with 62 ohm compared to the remainder a consistent 12.4. Having read the experience of others I decided I would bite the bullet and replace all 8. Local dealer wants a stupid $299 ea and would bring them in from Japan! Local parts store offered Bluestreak for 150 ea, but quickly determined they had only 1 and couldn't get anymore. Another parts store told me likewise, can't get them. I am in Vancouver, Canada and assume I had to try on the other side of the border. I have found a full set in CA but no mention of color code. Mine are marked green, what exactly is green indicative of?
Can I put a set of another color in? Any info beyond what I have found is appreciated.

Injector help

Injecor help

Re: Injecor help (Q_SHIP)

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Re: (elwesso)

Re: (Q_SHIP)

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Re: OEM Screws

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