Injector failure - cylinder #5 - anyone tried this one?

[colincliff2]

Has anyone ever replaced injector #5 (rear passenger side cylinder)? It looks more difficult than the others due to some hard fuel lines that are in the way and a smaller gap between the intake runners. I was planning on using the dremel method, but wanted to know if anyone else has tried this one? The car suddenly developed a violent misfire which I narrowed down to #5, and it's not the coil or the plug. Pulling the plenum is not in the cards for me at the moment.

[swimshark]

ive done the dremel method on a 300zx and my friend J30. you just got to take your time grinding away and be careful when removing the bolts for the cap plate. make sure to press downward firmly so you dont strip the heads on the bolts. i got a set of hex bolts from home depot and replaced all of mine when i did do a plenum pull. ill tell you the size when i get home.

i recommend the dremel method if your soul purpose is to just replace the single fuel injector. youll have to remove the fuel pressure regulator and lines from that area. make sure you vacuum real good as well after you finish dremeling.

im guessing you are using these instructions?

http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/155253.html
(weird because the link doesnt work right now but im gonna see if he can fix it)

[colincliff2]

Thanks swimshark, I replaced #5 and it was actually pretty easy. The Dremel method is definitely the way to go. For anyone else who needs to do this, here are some things I encountered:
-The rubber fuel hoses would not come off the hard lines, so I had slit them with a knife to get them off. They were old & brittle so it was a good opportunity to replace them.
-I unbolted the hard lines that run across the top of the plenum and held them off to the side with bungee cords. This cannot be done with the lower line (the gold one), but you can use a screwdriver to slightly pry it away from the work area.
-Soak the two injector screws in WD40 for at least 24 hours. Spray them with brake cleaner just before removal to get rid of the slippery WD40. I also set a #2 philips screwdriver into each screw head and hit it firmly with a hammer in hopes of getting the screwdriver to sit tight in the screw head. I was able to remove both without stripping them.
-I ended up using a 14mm deep socket, extension, and a mallet to press the new injector in to the rail. I just positioned the socket right on top of the injector (the flat, round area - not the connector.
-The injector connector is kind of tricky to put back on because you have to press down REALLY hard to get it to latch. Once again, a hammer and a screwdriver helped to press it down tightly.

I probably saved close to $700 doing this instead of taking it to a shop.

[swimshark]

good to hear. yah i replaced all 6 of mine and all the fuel lines for about $850 and i called the stealership to get a quote on same job and they quoted me $2600 so def a DIY project.

what type of fuel line did you get to replace the ones you cut? there is a specific type to get at Auto Zone/Advanced and it usually goes for about $6 per foot for the proper type of hose.

sorry i didnt tell bolt size but i believe is was a M6x1.0 20mm bolt. 2 per injector cap.

[colincliff2]

swimshark- I just went to napa and got a 1/4" inside diameter fuel hose. It says "fuel" right on it so I figured it would be ok. It was like $2/foot. Should I get a different type?

[swimshark]

i guess it should be fine then. the type that i got has a blue liner on the inside but mine is slightly bigger ID.

[swimshark]

i emailed him and the link works now

http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/155253.html