Can anyone direct me to a website/thread that has some kind of a tuning guide for an ca18det? I am trying to figure out what mods are necessary to achieve what different levels of HP, and at what RPMs. I am contemplating building an sr20det track car (autocross/road racing) and dont really have anywhere to start with the motor. I am also trying to figure out how the CA18det and sr motors match up, so I can decide which to choose.
BTW, I have already tried searching this site, but for the little useful info I found, I found 95% irrelevant stuff.
Thanks, Jordan
information for building a ca18det
Jordan - the mods for the CA18DET are the same as any piston engine. Increasing compression, upping boost, changing timing, cams, etc, are all effective ways to make power.
Generally speaking, the first steps on both an SR and CA are a front mount intercooler (FMIC), intake, downpipe, high-flow catalytic converter, and exhaust. Then a better turbo, fuel system, and engine management would come into play. You may find that you do NOT want to use a FMIC in track racing - it blocks a great deal of flow to the radiator, and heat is your enemy.
The CA18DET can hold around 550hp on stock internals, and the SR20DET can take around 350hp. With a built block, I couldn't tell you where the limits are, but I would say that your wallet will run short before the motor.
You said that you're thinking about a track car - what circuit will you run? Purely SCCA, perhaps NASA, or some other sanctioning group? Every sanctioning group from the SCCA on up has a set of rules, different even for each class of racing within the organization.
For instance, autocrossing- SCCA Solo II, or SCCA ProSolo. Each series has at least twenty classes (generally divided by car type and stock capabilities among other things). Each class has it's OWN set of rules. For instance, stainless steel brake lines may be legal in Pro Mod Solo II, but they are illegal in any Stock Solo II class.
When building a race car, the most important thing to remember is to build to spec. This means building the car to exploit the rules of your chosen series to the max.
So a wise course of action would be to decide what series you want to race in (you'll need to pick just one unless you have a large budget), and get a copy of the rulebook.
Then spend time learning the rules, and talking to people currently involved in that sport. Once you've got a feel for the rules and "shades of gray" that are allowed, plan the car and build it.
Good luck with your endeavors, and keep us informed!
Generally speaking, the first steps on both an SR and CA are a front mount intercooler (FMIC), intake, downpipe, high-flow catalytic converter, and exhaust. Then a better turbo, fuel system, and engine management would come into play. You may find that you do NOT want to use a FMIC in track racing - it blocks a great deal of flow to the radiator, and heat is your enemy.
The CA18DET can hold around 550hp on stock internals, and the SR20DET can take around 350hp. With a built block, I couldn't tell you where the limits are, but I would say that your wallet will run short before the motor.
You said that you're thinking about a track car - what circuit will you run? Purely SCCA, perhaps NASA, or some other sanctioning group? Every sanctioning group from the SCCA on up has a set of rules, different even for each class of racing within the organization.
For instance, autocrossing- SCCA Solo II, or SCCA ProSolo. Each series has at least twenty classes (generally divided by car type and stock capabilities among other things). Each class has it's OWN set of rules. For instance, stainless steel brake lines may be legal in Pro Mod Solo II, but they are illegal in any Stock Solo II class.
When building a race car, the most important thing to remember is to build to spec. This means building the car to exploit the rules of your chosen series to the max.
So a wise course of action would be to decide what series you want to race in (you'll need to pick just one unless you have a large budget), and get a copy of the rulebook.
Then spend time learning the rules, and talking to people currently involved in that sport. Once you've got a feel for the rules and "shades of gray" that are allowed, plan the car and build it.
Good luck with your endeavors, and keep us informed!
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themadscientist
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themadscientist
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wow mad, that was a qwik rise to moderatorship, how long ago did that happen ive been little behind on the news around here!!any how, im getting my FMic this week, i have some minor maintence issues to deal with for now like a leaky turbo oil return line, a pesky, i think leaking rear mainseal, although ill probably ignore that till i have more money to do a one off engine rebuild with head work cams, and piston/rods... i hope it doesnt get much worse! any one have a line on a good t3 manifold, or t28 turbo even a t3/04 ill need one sooner or later!jon
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Movingviolation240
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Ryan of Velocity
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No offense, but some people on here seem to spout out "facts" that they really have no personal experience with. That can tend to lead people down the wrong path.
I am a CA fan. It's my favorite motor. But it's not indestructable, and it's won't hold 500HP on stock internals. The highest I have had experience with is around 400 and that was with some headwork. I have seen SRs produce nearly 450 on stock internals.
And lower compression ratios are great for turbocharging, to some extent. The lower the compression ratio the lesser the chance you'll get detonation (pre-ignition). Of course a higher compression ratio will net you more power. But to ride that line you have to be a very experienced engine builder which is why a lower ocmpression ratio is important for us normal tuners. We don't have the equipment or "funds" (just generalizing) to run trial and error buildups to see how much boost we can push on whatever compression ratio.
Of course a knock sensor is a great tool for home garage tuning:)
I am a CA fan. It's my favorite motor. But it's not indestructable, and it's won't hold 500HP on stock internals. The highest I have had experience with is around 400 and that was with some headwork. I have seen SRs produce nearly 450 on stock internals.
And lower compression ratios are great for turbocharging, to some extent. The lower the compression ratio the lesser the chance you'll get detonation (pre-ignition). Of course a higher compression ratio will net you more power. But to ride that line you have to be a very experienced engine builder which is why a lower ocmpression ratio is important for us normal tuners. We don't have the equipment or "funds" (just generalizing) to run trial and error buildups to see how much boost we can push on whatever compression ratio.
Of course a knock sensor is a great tool for home garage tuning:)
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themadscientist
- Posts: 26254
- Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 3:30 pm
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Well I am collecting the parts and preppin the bits for a rebuild on the wife's car. I will be using the CA18DE out of mine as a base(no oilers) new turbo pistons, HKS cams, metal head gasket 550 squirters I just got back from RC, turbo and intercooler to be determined. If her current S14 turbo is O.K. I will reuse that one with a top-mount replumbed starion intercooler. Stock computer with an E-manageI will post the dyno results when it's done and she will be building the motor, I am just prepping the parts. This should be interesting.