Info on ka24 chipping

[neverlift]

Djpants wanted to know more so I've decided to post it to everyone on the forum.

I will say that you should look inside you ecu to see if you have a 28dip(reads 27c256)(dual inline pin) eprom that makes it so much easier. For those without the 28dip eproms you must buy a daughterboard and two chips instead of on and a dip socket or zif, along with the burner of your choice. Or IIRC you can do a step down to sohc ecu. I could be wrong on that. You will also need to get a freeware or buy a rom editor that you are comfortable with. I like romeditor but will use tunerpro for some adjustments.

I will only run through the ka24e as it its simple just get a burner,zif or dip socket,chips(sst27sf512 or at29c256),and romeditor. Then get an adr file for your ecu s13,u12,d21 from http://www.hybridka.com and load that to the romeditor and load a .bin file for your vehicle from above link or read your chip you remove from stock ecu and use that, now tune.

Okay on tho the de motor. You will need a daughterboard,2 above mentioned chips,burner,some sort of editor,.ecu file from http://www.hybridka.com, or your ecu and a .bin file from ecu or the link.

Now it gets kinda tricky, the page will look like a bunch of damn numbers in boxes. Most outside left row is the address in a single row from top to bottom. Across the top in a single row is the TP load.Across the far right side is the rpm range. You take the tp load which is kinda like throttle position and cross reference that with the rpm. I will not give any math equations just know up is more fuel/timing and down is less. I will post a few links that can go more into detail for those who want to know more. I am not the first or last person to tune an ecu themself, trust me you can blow your motor if you do too much at one time. Start with your fuel and then move onto timing. Also GET A WIDEBAND o2 SENSOR/GAUGE before you go dumping a ton of fuel into your motor or worse going super lean to save gas. Get the o2 installed then play all you want.

this one is a write up for the dauhterboard install http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=94997 this shows the spot that will recieve the daughterboard http://eccs.hybridka.com/viewtopic.php?t=161and the one for e engine people that goes into good detail http://eccs.hybridka.com/viewtopic.php?t=149this is one of the most detailed write ups ever its for the 300zx but applies to the ka24e directly as well as the de as far as the tuning goes http://cherrypicker.tripod.com/id10.html PLEASE NOTE! I am not responsible for what you do to your car. If you make a **** tune and your motor pops in front of you its on you. A wideband will let you know as soon as you get lean and you can stop right away. No a/f ratio monitoring no ecu tuning! Good luck

[DjPantsSpecR]

nice, nice post, and thanks for doing it for both my, and everyone elses benefits.

now to answer your question: i have a 93 manuel, 92 auto, and a 95 obdi manuel. hte believed to be 95 has the number 3C on it and A18-B92 G00

i like the part where it says G00.

any who i'll look at all them there purty pictures and crack open this 95, because ideally i'd like to use this one, but i bet, and from everything ive read, its probably not going to be useful. thats why deviousKA wanted this ecu so he could see what was up with it, but i havent seen anything from Gabe in a grip.

[neverlift]

your being sarcastic right? Yeah i didnt want to post it for everyone but its already on the net if they look hard. Plus most will just ignore it due to the effort involved. I did not really go into great detail since its already out there just a quick run down. That obd1 is like the friggin omen or something I dont know its like obd1 1/2 or some ****. IIRC its not easy to tune with or something. You could use either the 92 or 93 ecu with no problem. Oh he's been gone for a long time it seems. maybe 5months now. I know he had moved and even more recently pwns a dyno biotches, you know big pimpin spendin G's deviouska gots plenty money well maybe not plenty but more than me ,**** a dyno = baller!

btw whats the budget for your ecu tuning future? Sorry to get in your grill just wondering b/c there are alot of options not just stock ecu with eproms. I just like confusing all my friends by trying to explain a tiny bit. Dont think you will have much problem learning this stuff, hell I bet you already have a scientific calculator or can do complex math problems.

[DjPantsSpecR]

well yeah, of course i can handle complex math problems. i've recently started my 5th semester of calculus.

he has a dyno, he is a damn baller.

i should have no problem learning this stuff, but my budget is tiny. i'll invest the money to run Calumzult, and then i still need to look into my next step. ive read a lot about usign zifs and all this and that, but its all crazy computer letters and numbers to me at this point.

i'm still confused as to what exactly i need to do about getting a daughterboard. and i checked, and this 95 is too different from any picture ive seen. and that 40 pin section is more like 100 pins, so nice dice on the 95

[neverlift]

I'm a highschool drop out and can understand and do the problems just most are to busy or think its hard, it is to a point but then its caek.

I dont know alot about calumsult but alot of people swear by it and say good about the software. Only reason I ask your budget is, eprom is easy to me but stand alone seems way harder. IMHO Dont get confused with the basics a zif or zero inserton force socket will just make taking the eprom out and putting the new or reburned one(s) in that much easier. In the e ecu you canot really get to the chip with an ic puller or fingers or small flathead easily. With the fiz you flip your lever and it falls outwith zero force. You and everyone WILL **** up a chip without a zif, I already did. As for the numbers the top row will read 0123456789ABCDEF 0100 0110 0120 0130 and filled with numbers to represent the values (timing or fuel). Need more explaination just let me know.

I'll get a link to some daughterboards in a bit. I did not think you would be able to do much with that 95 piece, all I have heard about 95 ecu's is It would be extremely benificial to the eccs world if deviouska would get one and break it open. Snap a few shots of the inside and post em on hybridka :wink. That might dig out deviouska. A project he wants to mess with not people asking same stuff over and over. I do know he has missed some cash being away but with a dyno,charge low and get all the business in town. I even looked into a mobile one. cha ching

[neverlift]

sorry it took so long fvcking dial up http://www.plmsdevelopments.co...shtml

[DjPantsSpecR]

yeah, i got access to a seriously bad *** digital camera now, so i should be able to take some ridiculous photos for HybridKA.

i wonder how much 77 aus is?

[InsanityInc]

yeah, i got access to a seriously bad *** digital camera now, so i should be able to take some ridiculous photos for HybridKA.

i wonder how much 77 aus is?

$58.14

[neverlift]

cool what camera? I got a sony handycam not cdr though, also a die and brought back by me finepixA330 and also a new A345 same brand. Not the best but work great. thank you insanity. btw Dj ihad a few more links but the dial up man the dial up.

here is a place calum is selling them, kinda high imo. 105 US/155 US for the on with consult functions.http://www.sr20forum.com/archi....html
Modified by neverlift at 10:36 AM 9/21/2006

[DjPantsSpecR]

i know, and id definately have to get the consult board on it too....

damnit, im not gonna throw down the 155 bones, especially because he refuses to let you do it yourself.

hey insanity, if a tree falls in a forrest is that price still the same?

and its a Canon EOS 20D. i think the entire package was bought on ebay for like 2gs,

[neverlift]

sweeet cam man. You wont go big on the car but the camera you blow a fat stack on.

I agree about the price being high, most places or people for that matter, have a cheaper diy kit. I like those best it gets you hands on experience. I was going to get a consult board but cannot afford a laptop. If the currency changes the price will.

[DjPantsSpecR]

lol it is nice, and i posted those pics i hope they're useful.

i almost ought two 240s for what this camera costs. i said i had access to it, meaning i temporarily G-d it up from my mom.

i've done a whole hell of a lot of fine point soldering when i used to modify micro rc cars back in the day, so im good with a pencil point on micro pcbs.

damn we're broke.

[neverlift]

I did not use a pencil point or the small solder. Another I couldnt afford it. On that one of calum's I think I would invest on both. Your moms = yours soon enough. I would have money if I had no kid,wife,or cars. I do have other hobbies but these seem to take most of my time and money.

[zero_gripS13]

your not the only ones looking into this lol.. i already got consult workin on my ka24de .. im trying to find a 5sd ecu at the junk yard to send calum... im sorry but 105$ plus 10$ shiping is worth it to me to have it professionally installed... i tried ot get a chip installed in my probes ecu and its was so hard to find someone to do it who was caable.. so anyways im looking at 45-70 for the daughterboard plus 30-50 to get it installed.. ill take 115$...

also i already got a old basic n/a tune for the ka24de and im gona get a burner soon and try it out... but i wont do custom tunes till i learn more...

im trying to figure out how to modify th maps.. i know how to change the numbers and disable the self learn and stuff like tip in retard ... but im not sure how to figure out what im ment to make the numbers lol..

[neverlift]

zero and Dj dont mod the #'s till you have a wideband o2 or some type of a/f monitoring. I dont reccomend but personally only use a second 1 wire narrow band and summit led bar graph a/f ratio gauge. It is not ideal but like I've previously said too many times "I'm broke" and a wideband was out the question. I even got the o2sens from the j/y. IMHO I think its good enough for factory so why not me. It reads fairly accurate to what I tune but have not ran against a wideband.

grip why do you need calumsult if you have consult/laptop?, cant you just hookup and modify the stock code with the consult or am I misunderstanding its function?

Dj I did do some digging into the de stuff. I seems they ran a bit less fuel throughout the map with a different o2 closed loop area. Also de's have knock sensing(timing closed loop). I did however put the stage three fuel map to a stock de .bin for you. I dont know how good it is and didn't f*** with the timing, and some maps that the e had were not picking up for the de, I'll try to reinstall live edit and go that rom editing freeware and see what all the mix up is. email me for what I have already

[zero_gripS13]

Im not doing custom tunes till i know more.. but i have a already made tune from a while ago thats a basic n/a tune... tip in retard emovedignition timing modifiedfuel modifiedclosed loop disabled

consult cannot be used to tune..

it can be used torip the tune off the ecu...datalog info...

im trying to see if consult does trouble codes and cels.. but the software i used last time didnt do that but its displayed a bunch of gauges..

u would need some sort of emulator inorder to do real time tunning..

consult can be used to log info then use the info to tune (which is what the llink with the dude tunning the z32 did)..

pretty much for a de u need a daughterboard and a chip burner and some type of software.

[pmkls2]

Ok I have a dumb question but please dont flame me because I am a little confused still. So the ka24e has a removable prom on it and doesnt require soldering to chip the ecu ? I already have a burner, software, and some 512 chips for chipping GM ecm's so if all I need is the correct definition file and .bin then Im good to go. I didnt check into chipping the stock ecu before because I dont like the configuration and was going to swap to a speed density GM ecu. However, I may do some tuning on the factory setup if it doesnt require much work until I get aroung to swapping out to GM.

[pmkls2]

sorry guys I did more reading and found the link to the writeup on the sohc ecu so disregard my last post and excuse me for being a dumba**. thanks for the great info I think Im gonna ebay a spare ecu and play around some.

[neverlift]

you should read my first few posts on hybridka I'm a dumbass. All you needs a burner some 28dip chips and socket or zif. A 32zif will work with very little mods. I would like to know some about chipping gm ecu's I own a 00 jimmy 4.3vortec. So anything to help I'll be glad, and maybe you could point me in the right direction on the gm stuff. As you could tell I know way more bout the e ecu than the de b/c I dont have one to play with. I will be looking more into them and try to get them figured out. I could sell you my spare #10 ecu with a socket in it,works fine but any zif will make the pulling and install much easier at only a few dollars more. I hate to do sales not in the classy so email me if you want a pic or something. A little more I could through in a stage3 burnt chip that I cant use.(60psi fp) Whatever you do good luck. I'd like to see how a gm ecu conversion would turn out myself

[email protected]

[neverlift]

woot woot I'm dumb. go here http://www.hybridka.com/ecucomponents.htm on sale 25 dollars diy kit from gabe's store (deviouska)

[pmkls2]

For an obd2 GM I dont think u can chip them. U can reflash the ecm but Im not clear on how to do that with aftermarket hardware as I only did that at the dealer with a scan tool. The best place to look for info for that type of project is http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/ You can do a little research there and subscribe to the mailing list which is a forum in e-mail format. One of the subscribers started a forum but I dont remember the address. As far as the ecm I will email you later about that. I basically want a spare just in case I screw up the board while Im soldering or desoldering it. As far as pre-obd 2 gm ecm's they are by far the easiest ecm to chip since they either used a 24 or 28 pin prom that can be directly replaced with an eeprom or the later models had a memcal which is a snap-in unit that houses a 28 pin prom and some resistor packs and there are adapters readily available that go inline and use an eeprom. So either way they all just simply require replacement and no soldering or modifications. As far as the conversion to a GM ecm in a 240 it requires a little more $$ than I have right now as the entire idle controls need to be replaced along with the temp sensor and it requires a map sensor as well. It is all easy to do stuff and total is under $500, but Im broke so Im in no hurry. Like I said before want to dump the ridiculous maf sensor and all the extra unnecessary crap the stock config has and the typical GM ecm used for swaps is a nice clean install and very basic with no unneeded controls or wiring, plus some versions have provisions for operating a 2/3 bar map sensor, turbo wastegate, and the extra timing and fuel curves to facilitate which means no silly piggyback unit or expensive aftermarket ecu. So you would be looking at a fuel management system on a turbo car for under $500 with complete programability and reliability.

[neverlift]

Well I might just do a stepdown on the old jimmy. Oh well I'll rip into my bads 2.8 IIRC its a 89 or close to that. I now those can be tuned and are far from tuned from factory. I swear between you,me,and Dj we must be the brokest mo fo's around. lol It could be worse is what I always try to think.

back on topic. Tuning of the stock ecu along with a wideband would be more than sufficient to tune from na stock~NA monster~mild turbo~crazy turbo with 1000cc injectors and z32 maf or even a gm or maybe ford maf (long as you can find a vqmap). Have you ever used solder? If so you can do it your self. Hell I just used my wifes vacuum cleaner,straw(s),and electrical tape. I say plural straws because the first time it took like three, second and and rest I only used one. With that said, you should try it once, in the end it will be useful. But if you still want it I wont post a fs.

[pmkls2]

if it is an 89 or close to then it probably has just a 24 pin prom i believe so you can burn one and literally drop it in. Im broke because my bike is costing me a fortune on insurance because of my colorful driving record so until some of my tickets come off of my record I pay insane rates. Luckily that is only a couple of months away so I may be able to actually get back on track with my 240 after that as I have a mile long to do list for it. I'll contact you this week about the ecu as I like to have spares of any part I can anyways. As far as the newer jimmy goes Im sure you can do some tuning but I really dont know what kind of hardware is required but I know people do it

[neverlift]

yeah it will just be sitting you got downs on it. I have it for the exact reason you want it. insurance.speaking of, I used to get nailed all the time for things I was not even doing(no headlights on a 96s-10 with daytime running lights was the worst),and had alot of other speeding tickets. I think I was paying like 400 a month. I know we are off topic but hows that 2&1/4 exhaust perform/sound? been thinking that size, but when I go turbo it wont be good for a ton of boost, should be fine for starter though.

[pmkls2]

2 1/4 is about the same size as stock anyways I believe stock is about 2 1/8 so its a pretty subtle difference. The sound is pretty quiet for some reason and at first I was quite disappointed because Im used to having loud cars. I cant honestly tell a diff in performance than with the completely stock setup granted I changed components on my exhaust at different times like I gutted the cat first, then later I had the muffler installed, then I had them redo the piping and remove the resonator. So I really cant say if it performs better or not but it definately doesnt hurt. Now that the muffler is a couple years old it pops on easy decel so it sounds cool. If I can ever afford to go turbo I will be going the 3 inch route. I believe 2 1/2 inch is good for up to about 300 crank hp but 3 inch is really about the same price so why not go bigger. Anyhow these days full exhausts in 2 1/2 or 3 inch go for a couple hundred bucks on ebay these days and they are stainless as well i think so you cant hardly beat that since it is about the same or cheaper than a muffler shop.

[zero_gripS13]

i will be getitn a daughterboard isntalled sometime withing the next few eeks gota find a spare ecu first (mine is an auto(5spd swap, left it in there for the increased redline, and no speedlimit.) and id rather use a manual ecu since its easier to tune..)

[neverlift]

pmk thanks for the respose. I will not go 2 1/4 just trying to notgo the beaten pathaybe I'll go 2 3/8.lol No but 2 1/2 seems to be what I want or will use anyways. I'm not only poor I'm cheap too, so I'll skimp on that. I personally wont get any muffler or pipes from egay.(read my sig) Besides thats too much for pipe IMHO. I'll get bends and straight pipe from a cheap net company and weld that **** myself. TRUE CUSTOM EXHAUST.

zerogrip why is the 5spd easier to tune than the auto? I dont recall that anywhere. Also I thought the auto had no speed limiter and a lower rev limiter. Maybe just on the sohc

[pmkls2]

while we are on the ecu topic, what is the difference in the ecu codes on the outside of the ecu, like 72, 10, 11, etc.... Is that just basically different calibrations ? I have seen several #'s for 89-90 5-speed cars and figured the difference was the calibration. I know in GM cars that they had several broadcast codes for the same make vehicle that was basically just a different calibration. most of the time they were changes made to fix different problems found during the production year

[zero_gripS13]

i dont think it maks a difference auto vs manual... but i was reading something abut auto tunes and id just rather get another ecu thats a manual..

im runnign auto ecu and rev limit is 7200 and no speed limit...ive hit 6k in 5th...

[neverlift]

pmkls the number on the out side with just 2 numbers is to let you know if you have a manual or auto ecu even is maual and odd is auto. As for the rest of the numbers I think you are close I have personaly not seen two .bin that looked exactly the same.

zero grip I think theres alot of difference in the two, timing and fuel maps,even closed loop is in different location. That is on the e anyways. I can also say I swapped to an auto ecu for the raised speed limiter, that worked but I then had a rev limiter. In the 5spd I had no rev limiter but had a top speed limiter. I agree wtf? I could rev the 5speed to 7grand all day, once the auto ecu was in I could only get it to about 6250rpm. Now I can say I use a 5spd .bin and ecu but have also used my auto stanza ecu with 240sx 5spd maps worked fine for me. As for the 6k in 5th what speed do you estimate? I have been past that not by much, 6500rpm but it was fun, the few other people on the road came and went SSSSSSOOOOOOOOOOO FFFFFAAAAAAASSSSSSSSSTTTTTTTTTTTTT~!!!!!!!