Info about springs for 240sx Convertibles

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cheap_sticker05
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Does anyone know why the Eibach sportline springs do not fit on a vert? If they don't does anyone have advice on which springs are the lowest and fit?Thanks,Rich-


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onosqv
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they'll fit just fine. those (except vert) ads are for the most part, incorrect.

I would actually recommend the rsr springs tho, those go low & seem to perform better...

I had agx + sportlines on my coupe.

My friend had agx + rsr on his fastback.

The combo of agx + rsr seemed better. The lowering seemed better too (sportline typically makes the rear look lower than the front).

The sportline + agx are fine tho, for most driving - I suggest running the agx @ 3/4 & 6/8 to match the springs tho. Rides pretty good.

94_240sx
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cheap_sticker05 wrote:Does anyone know why the Eibach sportline springs do not fit on a vert? If they don't does anyone have advice on which springs are the lowest and fit?Thanks,Rich-
I did a lot of research on springs. Most will say 'Exclude Convertible' in their catalogs, but just ignore it. All springs for 240sx will fit with no problem. You can expect slight more drop because vert weighs bit more. Sportline drops more compare to other springs, and it's progressive, not linear. I think Tanabe GF210 is best bang for the buck for 240 vert. You have other choices like S-Tech, RSR, Prokit, Sportline... but I like GF210. Check out attwater's car. He has GF210+KYB.

94_240sx
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As far as I know, you can go lower with GF210 than RSR. Yeah, RSR is a good spring, but GF210 is cheaper like $156 shipped.

madcowvert
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its not that they dont fit its that the car would go lower then what they say because the convertible springs are taller them regular coupes and fast backs due to the fact that the vert weighs so much more....

94_240sx
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madcowvert wrote:its not that they dont fit its that the car would go lower then what they say because the convertible springs are taller them regular coupes and fast backs due to the fact that the vert weighs so much more....
I checked Nissan parts catalog and all sturut part numbers are same, but vert has different part number for the spring.

94_240sx
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This is attwater's car. Nice drop and stance...
Modified by 94_240sx at 6:06 AM 9/30/2006

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Eikon
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Nice informative thread you guys..

I'm going to change the title on it to read (Info about springs for 'verts) and link it to the sticky thread!

Nice job!

btw.. I should have a set of KYB AGX shocks with Eibach Sportline springs next week.. I'll update with pics to show results.


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onosqv
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While we are at it, I'll add some coilover info, hahahaha.

For coilovers, in my case KTS coilovers from SPLParts, you may need to bend/hack/saw part of the rear firewall/rear seatbelt supports. The adjustment knobs on these coilovers get in the way when installing them.

Other than that, a direct fit.

*and if you have a setup like Tanabe Seven w/ the TEAS (electronic dampening control), you will have to cut A LOT more.

cheap_sticker05
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Thanks for all the info. Am I missing something though? The gf210 say they lower 1.5 fr and 1.0 rr.The Eibach sportlines say 2.2 fr and 2.1 rr. Does anyone know if the sportlines are in fact a lot lower?

94_240sx
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cheap_sticker05 wrote:Thanks for all the info. Am I missing something though? The gf210 say they lower 1.5 fr and 1.0 rr.The Eibach sportlines say 2.2 fr and 2.1 rr. Does anyone know if the sportlines are in fact a lot lower?
If you want more drop, go with Sportline. If you want decent drop and performance, go with GF210. If you want performance, go with RSR. If you don't want any headache, Nismo S-Tune is also a good choice. Sportline is progressive, so I've heard that your car becomes unpredictable when hard turn. Spring rates become different right and left due to weight shift. On the other hand, linear sping rates will remain same, so handling should be better. Sportlines gives more drop, it means you will have more chance blowing up your shocks. Stock shocks sometimes blow up if you use Sportlines. One of S14 guys installed Sportlines, front drop was too much, so he swapped just front springs with Prokits and they raised front little bit. Drops you mentioned are based on hatchbacks and coupes, not on verts.

Eikon,RB weighs more, so I wonder how you car will look like after the installation especially front. If I were you, I would go with coilovers. That way, you can have more adjustbility.

brokeAs240sx,I'm going to install Stance coilovers in the back tomorrow along with SPL RUCAs. Front ones already went on with no problem. I didn't know I have to bend/hack/saw... Dang... I'll see if I can get away with Satnce coilovers. I'll try to take some pictures, so you guys can see. I've talked to Kuah w/SPL and Rob, Eric & Eric w/Stance and they had no idea about coilover installation on a vert. None of them seen their coilovers on a vert in person or worked on it.

Speaking on RUCAs, do this if you lower your vert. As far as I know, this is what attwater had to do too.http://www.240sx.org/links/ins....htmlYou should be able to adjust rear camber with stock ones this way.

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Eikon
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My RB setup should actually have less weight over the front wheels than the stock KA did. The RB20 stock is only about 50 lbs heavier if I remember correctly. With my custom manifold saving a few and a battery relocation saving a lot.. i think it will be equal to or better than stock.

I would love coilovers.. but I don't have $1k for a decent set. So I found a used set of KYB AGX with Eibach sportlines for $250 shipped. It's not the final product, but it will tide me over until I can afford coilovers.

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brokeAs240sx wrote:For coilovers, in my case KTS coilovers from SPLParts, you may need to bend/hack/saw part of the rear firewall/rear seatbelt supports. The adjustment knobs on these coilovers get in the way when installing them.
Okay, I pulled out stock struts and yes, I have to bend/hack/saw the metal panel. With a stock strut, I have like 3/4 inch space between frame and top of the strut, but I need like an inch more to clear coilover. I tried to remove rear seat belt assembly for better access, but it won't move even though I removed a large bolt underneath it. Is top portion welded on or something? Anyway, I took some pictures, so I'll post them tonight. Hopefully, those pictures will give some ideas to people planning on getting aftermarket colilvers and struts... I don't have any power tools, so I guess I'll just use saw, punch & hammer to cut and bend it.
Modified by 94_240sx at 1:42 PM 10/9/2006

slip69
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is it necessary to replace the stock shocks with aftermarket when using springs to drop the car???or can they take the abuse the springs will give them???

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onosqv
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slip69 wrote:is it necessary to replace the stock shocks with aftermarket when using springs to drop the car???or can they take the abuse the springs will give them???
Not necessary if you don't mind riding on blown struts.

The general rule is anything lowering more than 1" or so should get better shocks (agx, higher end tokico, koni, etc).

Another thing to consider is that your stock struts are probably already blown, they are 10-17 year old struts...

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slip69 wrote:is it necessary to replace the stock shocks with aftermarket when using springs to drop the car???or can they take the abuse the springs will give them???
It looks like cutting and bending is required for most aftermarket coilovers. Not sure about other struts like KYB AGX, GR-2, Tokico Blue or Koni Yellow. If you just want to swap the springs, no, you just take out the struts, replace springs and reinstall them. I removed both side of top well(leather?) which is glued on and had a better access for the rear nuts. Space was vert tight. It's going to be a nightmare to adjust the dampening.

I would definitely swap stock struts with AGX or something. If you search, you will see most people say using stock struts with aftermarket lowering springs is not a good idea.


94_240sx
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What is the best way to saw/hack/bend this rear support frame? From trunk or wheel well? I'm asking this because I have no slack/space from rear seat area.

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Difference between stock rear strut and Stance coilover...

94_240sx
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This is what I have to saw and bend. It's right in the middle.

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Done. It was like 10min job. I did it from back seat area.

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Used these three... I wonder if this is necessary for aftermarket struts especially KYB AGX.

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Hijacker
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not with AGXs.

94_240sx
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You see this plastic seat belt housing? It's on the right side on passenger side, but on driver's side, it's still on the right side and your coilover knob will hit it really bad. You have to cut the corner carefully, so the belt will function right. I used dremel with cone shaped grinding rock. For the driver's side, you have to bend the support and cut this out.


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