INFINITY KAPPA42.71 In 94Q front door

[CINNALOCKS]

I want a pr of the Infinity Kappa 42.71 to replace the factory in the front door. The Kappas have a 1 13/16" Mounting Depth and 3 7/16" Cut Out Diameter. I am wondering before I order them if they will work without alteration. I am going Alpine 609's in the rear and the PIONEER FH-P800BT Headunit.

[the converted]

Those should fit just fine. If you were inclined to do a little more work there have been a few members that have fit 6.5's or even 6x9's in the front doors. There should be a link in the Faq thread at the top of the forum if your interested.

[PoorManQ45]

You can fit 6.5s or 6x9s in the front doors. You have about 2.5"~3" of clearance.

I'd recommend either the DLS R6A $152 shipped or DLS MS6A $176 shipped. They are both badass speakers and require and amp. For the Amp the Pioneer GM-5300T $99 shipped is a great amp that puts out plenty of power.

I personally would use the same set in both the front and back. Get two of those Pioneer amps. for about $500 you'll have a badass setup.

I really like the Pioneer HU that you've chosen. One thing to note, if you want HD Radio you will have to purchase the GEX-P10HD module for $120 MSRP. So if HD radio is of any importance to you factor the additional cost of the module when comparing the HU to other models.

I really LOVE that the HU has built in HPF and LPF capability. High-Pass Crossover (HPF) 50/63/80/100/125Hz, -12dB/Oct.Subwoofer Crossover (LPF) 50/63/80/100/125Hz, -18dB/Oct., +/-12dB

You have no idea how much that'll improve the sound quality versus using the built in HPF/LPF in most amplifiers..

I also really like the looks of that Head Unit too. Hopefully the Blue light isn't too bright at night. Other then that it's very elegant looking.
Modified by PoorManQ45 at 7:26 PM 2/15/2008

[CINNALOCKS]

You can fit 6.5s or 6x9s in the front doors. You have about 2.5"~3" of clearance.

I'd recommend either the DLS R6A $152 shipped or DLS MS6A $176 shipped. They are both badass speakers and require and amp. For the Amp the Pioneer GM-5300T $99 shipped is a great amp that puts out plenty of power.

I personally would use the same set in both the front and back. Get two of those Pioneer amps. for about $500 you'll have a badass setup.

I really like the Pioneer HU that you've chosen. One thing to note, if you want HD Radio you will have to purchase the GEX-P10HD module for $120 MSRP. So if HD radio is of any importance to you factor the additional cost of the module when comparing the HU to other models.

I really LOVE that the HU has built in HPF and LPF capability. High-Pass Crossover (HPF) 50/63/80/100/125Hz, -12dB/Oct.Subwoofer Crossover (LPF) 50/63/80/100/125Hz, -18dB/Oct., +/-12dB

You have no idea how much that'll improve the sound quality versus using the built in HPF/LPF in most amplifiers..

I also really like the looks of that Head Unit too. Hopefully the Blue light isn't too bright at night. Other then that it's very elegant looking.

Modified by PoorManQ45 at 7:26 PM 2/15/2008

Thank you for the good info.........................I got the Alpine 609's for $82.00 and the Kappas for $64.00 the Pioneer FH-P800BT is running $275. The biggest cost is rewiring everything and dumping the Bose Stuff.I chose that head unit because of all the capabilities, the color and the fact the it does not look too out of place in my 14 yr old Q. I am hoping there is a way to adjust the lighting on the unit.

It will be a couple of weeks before it is all done. It was an rather unexpected thing for my amp to go in a day. So I am running just the one Bose speaker in the rear with until I get the head unit delivered and installed.

The other thing is that I did not want to have to do any customizing or alterations, I have no place to work on my car....Best Buy is doing the install.
Modified by CINNALOCKS at 11:55 AM 2/18/2008

[CINNALOCKS]

UPDATE: Poor Man Q45 I did purchase the Pioneer amp 5300t from Newegg last night on the other hand I was not able to return the Alpine SPS 609s I had already bought for the rear deck. That meant that I was not able to consider the DLs but I did look into it. So with that in mind I am looking to do the SPS 600's in the front to try to match them up.BTW PIONEER FH-P800BT Headunit does have a dimmer for the lighting.

[PoorManQ45]

Sweet. That amp will work great with those speakers.

I would consider looking at some speakers for the front a little higher up in alpine's line. Maybe components.

As you know, the fronts are the most important

[CINNALOCKS]

Thank you for the info.......So what do you think of the Alpine SPR-17S 5-1/4 or the SPS 600C system instead of the sps 600s

I see they are $129 shipped. I am thinking too I will let the hd tuner slide for the moment just to get me up and running sooner.

My biggest issue is finding someone to wire it up. I am worried now about going to Best Buy and Circuit City, in Indiana there are not a lot of choices that I am aware of.

Modified by CINNALOCKS at 11:50 PM 3/1/2008

Modified by CINNALOCKS at 11:51 PM 3/1/2008
Modified by CINNALOCKS at 9:38 PM 3/7/2008

[PoorManQ45]

Im honestly not that sure about alpine components. Ive never actually heard them. I dont know if that means theyre just rare, or if theyre not that good. Youll have t do the research on those.

As for the install: What all are you doing?

From what I can see Youll be plugging the new HU in in place of the OEM via an adapter. Using an adapter plate if needed.

The front speakers are going to be run off the amp, correct? If so Id run a pair of 14awg wires from the new amp to behind the HU. Id make the connection for the front speakers right there. Also run like a 20awg or 18awg back to the amp location to be used as the remote turnon lead. While youre running those wires Id run Three pairs of RCA cables to the amp location. One would be for the amp youre putting in now. The other two would be for future expansion.

Do you possibly have any ideas for future expansion of this system? If so Id run a 0awg power wire from the battery to the amp location. Then use a distribution block to connect to the amps as you install them. This will pretty much eliminate any voltage drop. Less voltage drop = more power! Dont get suckered into buying overpriced wires. Go to the ElementalDesigns website. Check out their Enetics wire. Youll need about 20ft of one color and sft of the other color(for ground wire). Im not sure if this still works, but at checkout in the coupons/promotions spot put in "wiresale".

Honestly, with one of those $10 100 piece toolkits from walmart and a wire stripper you can do this whole job in about 4 hours(novice) time.

On the Q45 there are these nice channels on each side of the cabin that contain the factory harness. Its simply a matter of removing the door sills on one side and pulling the carpet back a little to gain access to the channel. To get the power wire from in the engine bay into the cabin you can follow the hood release cable through the grommet. Use a metal coat hanger to poke through it and then tape the wire to the hanger and pull like Hell! LOL. Or you can either drill another hole and put a grommet in place, or punch out one of the existing grommets.

To get into the trunk you remove the lower portion of the seat via pulling the two clips on the lower front of the seat(one infront of each passenger location). Then pull up on the cusion and remove it. This gives you access to the bolts holding the upper cusion in place. Remove all the lower bolts that are attached to the seat. Also remove the lower bolt holding down each of the seat belts. Then fold down the armrest. Pull the leather covered board, its recessed in the cushion, down and then outwards. This will give you access to the last two bolts holding the cushion. Remove them. Now lift up on the cushion. Its just hanging on alip, so lift up and pull towards the front of the car. Before attempting to remove the cushion you need to pop the plastic seat belt guides out and then feed them, and the seat belt and buckle through the hole. This will leave nothing holding onto the cushion. Now you can remove it.

On both sides of the rear seat there is a large grommet that you can feed wires through. Use the wire hanger for this again. I mention the stuff on both sides for if youre an advocate of seperating the power from the signal wires to eliminate crosstalk/static in the signal line. I wouldnt waste my time running the cables seperately. Any possibly crosstalk/static is going to be below the threshold of roadnoise. So Youll never hear any difference. But the choice is yours.

To get the HU out you first remove the trim ring around the transmission lever. Its clipped on. This gives you access to screws right below the ashtray. There may be two screws near the shift lever. Remove them. Lift up on the plastic trim and out on the trim around the ashtray and HU. Its held on by clips. Once all the clips are popped unplug the hazzard button and any other buttons attached to the panel. Then remove the panel. This gives you access to the four screws holding the HU in place. Remove them and pull the HU out. When you can reach them disconnect the plugs from the back of the HU

[PoorManQ45]

Once you have the HU out you can use the coat hanger and feed it down to whichever side youre running the signal wires on. For this sake ill assume youre running it on the drivers side with the power wire. Once you have the hanger fished down into the footwell. Label all your wires on both ends. Tape the RCAs, turn-on wire, and the two sets of 14awg wire. Pull them down to the footwell and run them the same way you ran the power wire.

Splice the speaker wires into the wires running to the front speakers. Butt crimps are advised, but a "W"estern Union twist and tape will work fine. Just use good Electrical tape. I recommend 3M.

With the HU sitting on a table, or somewhere comfortable take out the adapter harness. Go through and connect up all the wires properly. If you can I would atleast butt crimps these connections, preferrably solder them. Then take the HU out to the car

Run any auxilary input cables, like ipod, to where ever you want those devices to be placed.

Connect all the RCAs to the proper outputs on the new HU. Auxilary cable. Harness plugs to the factory harness. And the antenna cable. Oh, and splice the remote turn on wire you ran into the blue wire coming out of the new HU.

Install the HU mounting kit, if needed, and then bolt in the HU.

Put the trim and plugs back on in reverse order.

Lay the carpet back down and secure it.

For the rear deck speakers youre pretty much at the point of removing them. The rear deck is held on by a bunch of clips. Carefully pry them up and us a stubby screwdriver to remove the four allen head screws holding down each speaker. Disconnect the wires as you pull the speakers out. Look at the Bose speakers and laugh at the idiot that pays $150 each to replace those speakers!

Drop in the new speakers and hook them up. Screw them down.

Drop the deck in place smacking the clips.

Bring the upper cushion into the car. Feed the seat belts through and clip the guides in place. Then lift the cushion up and hang it on the rear ledge. Put all the bolts back in Dont forget the ones behind the armrest panel! Also dont forget te seatbelt bols, unless you like to scare the Hell out of passengers

Now get the lower cushion. Note that the rods on the back of it have to slide up into/behind theupper cushion first. Then press down until the clips seat.

There you have it! I just typed out the instructions in about 30 minutes on my T-mobile Dash Smartphone! Now dont go complaining about not having anywhere to work. You can do everything in Walmarts parking lot. Anything you need would be right there!

[CINNALOCKS]

Thank you so much for so much free and detailed information. I am indeed thinking of running the amp on the front speakers. It will be another two weeks before I get the headunit, this is a piece by piece purchase. I will make a decision on the speakers in the next couple of days. When the weather gets to be above 50 for a few days in a row then I can begin the install. And thanks again. I will keep you posted.

[PoorManQ45]

Who said that info was free? Said my $25 consultation fee to my paypal.

[CINNALOCKS]

Well **** if I gotta pay I aint done asking questions. I know you said you are not that familiar with Alpine but anybody can chime in on this. I am not able to make a choice yet.

I saw an Alpine deck has some sweet features but is single din. Not what I was hoping for. And the HU does not have built in HPF and LPF capability like the Pioneer does.

http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-e...-9887

or the Pioneer deck is perfect but I am wondering if it will match up to the Alpine?

http://www.pioneerelectronics....800BT
Modified by CINNALOCKS at 10:33 PM 3/7/2008

[the converted]

Actually the alpine has xover and time correction. The pionner unit has a very different look to it. The one thing I would keep in mind is that the face comes off the alpine so you can actually park it and not be too worried about it. Other than that you are looking at two decent units.

[PoorManQ45]

If you're ever worried about the HU getting stolen I'd recommend A, get a real alarm system, b, get the windows tinted, and c, to lock the HU in place use those screws the have the little metal prong right in the middle of them that require a special tool to remove them.

This will a, deter the theif, b, make it harder for them to see what you have, and c, piss them off to the point that they're going to break everything anyways

I recommend that you specify to your insurance exactly what you have installed once it's in. That way you're truely covered.

[CINNALOCKS]

Well I got it all done. The only thing I did differently was the HJ, I got tired of waiting on the availability of the 800BT so I got the DEH P600 UB. I am very happy with your suggestions on the amp, the components and the hd on the radio is a nice addition for those days I want to hear the radio. I also dynamatted the speaker in the doors and rear panel.

The bad so that Pioneer has no presets for HD and the HU has to be off for the attenae to go down, so no music AT ALL in the car wash.

In time I may add a woofer to add to the real bottoms but today as I played with the hu I was able to bring out some truly nice, crisp bottoms without losing at lot of anything. I got out and listened to it as I was pumping gas. What an improvement over the factory Bose with the paper cones.

I highly doubt I would have done as well without the points fromPoorMan Q45, Twisted and the Converted

[PoorManQ45]

Sweet! Not many people actually finish these installs and then notify us!

Can you list off the equipment that you ended up getting?

And maybe a picture or two.