Infiniti OEM Enhanced Code P1553

[anewstartinchrist]

Hope all is well and everyone is have a good weekend,
I went to start my 2012 M37x today and the vehicle was dead. The car didn't even unlock(proximity key works) and I had no lights on in the car. So I had to use the key in the fob to open everything. I checked the connection of the battery and everything was tight. I got my battery jumpstarter and it fired right up. I didn't have any lights on the dash but I used my Zurich code reader to see if any codes came up. None did, until I used the Infiniti OEM enhanced feature and one code appeared, P1553 Battery Current Sensor. I decided to test both the battery and the alternator which tested fine. I tested the battery first before the car got to operating temperature. Then once it did, I tested the alternator, but followed the prompts to the T on both procedures. I decided to clear the OEM enhanced code and it didn't come back. I've been checking every so often throughout today to see if I can replicate the issue with the car going completely dead but approaching the car, unlocking it, and starting the car is normal. I will have to let it sit overnight again to see if it happens in the morning. I did charge the battery(and did the 12V repair) with a Noco Genius 5 about a week and a half ago and it's from 2023. The only other thing I did different when reinstalling the battery is cleaning the positive and negative terminals and adding dielectric grease. I also cleaned off the purple grease that was there which my dad had me place all over everything a few months ago, including the fusible link assembly. And ideas?

[VStar650CL]

P1553 means the ECM saw an impossible value coming from the current sensor. I've seen it pop up during jumpstarts on vehicles with a bad ground lug, ostensibly because the bad contact is causing the starter current to bypass the sensor. You probably fixed it when you cleaned and tightened the lugs. If it doesn't come back, forget about it.

[anewstartinchrist]

Thanks for the insight. However I'm still unsure as to why the car was completely dead from the beginning. I am unsure if the code was there before this happened or was a result of the battery jumper. I did press the boost(jumpstart) button while the was running so it's possible that it's what caused the code. I waited until later this afternoon when it was hot to replicate the issue but the car unlocked and started normally. I thought the high temperatures we're experiencing might have caused the issue. I will continue to monitor this and be sure to bring my battery jumper. Might need to subscribe to AAA just in case... Since the code is for the Battery Sensor that could be the culprit but truthfully that code could mean that there's a short somewhere else. I inspected the fusible link and none of the fuses appeared broken.

[VStar650CL]

Short circuits will not cause that particular code. It's a "performance" code which primarily occurs when the ECM sees a large amount of current ostensibly flowing in the wrong direction. When it shows up along with P1550, P1552, or P1557 it usually means a bad sensor or a wiring issue, but when it shows up by itself it's almost always a temporary anomaly.

[anewstartinchrist]

Short circuits will not cause that particular code. It's a "performance" code which primarily occurs when the ECM sees a large amount of current ostensibly flowing in the wrong direction. When it shows up along with P1550, P1552, or P1557 it usually means a bad sensor or a wiring issue, but when it shows up by itself it's almost always a temporary anomaly.

You were definitely right. I believe it was because I had grease in between the battery post and the terminal. My dad pressured me into using some kind of purple grease to "protect my battery terminals. Definitely wasn't a good idea. I ended up getting a new battery recently anyway and cleaning the terminals off the best I could with spray electrical cleaner. The code didn't come back after the 1st time but the car died a total of two times with absolutely no power. It's all good now.

[VStar650CL]

That certainly could be. The right terminals will cost you about $16 on eBay, I strongly advise not screwing around with cleaning the old ones. Once they lose their plating you'll just get the green rock candy mountains over and over again.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/233612760192

The best thing to protect them is anodizing paint (usually red but Napa does sell purple stuff). Most manufacturers just call it "terminal protector", but it's all the same stuff. The paint has sacrificial anode properties so it gives itself up to prevent galvanic action in the terminal metal.