Hey all,

I'm really sorry if I'm posting in the wrong area. I'm really frantic and really don't know where to look. I tried searching for an answer, but I only found like one guy that seemed to have the same problem as me, but all he posted was that he took it to the dealer and got it fixed. I also looked in the Infiniti Online Mechanic Forum/Sub-Forum, but it was locked, so I'm trying here.

So on 5/29, I called Triple A to do a battery change. The M35 was still working at the time, but it was just low and the Triple A guy said that it would probably last about a month or so. We decided to change the battery. I drove the car over to a more open area, and then he changed it. Afterwards, nothing in the car worked. If I pressed the button to turn on the car, or even start the ignition, there would be no engine starting or no dashboard lights would turn on. Literally, nothing changes after hitting that button. The steering wheel and brakes locked. Nothing in the car showed electrical usage, except for the headlights and the in-cabin lights.

We brought it over to the Infiniti dealership, and what we though was going to be a ~$150 charge would be $1265. $1265 to replace the Intelligent Key Control Unit or something like that, and that's way more than my mom and I can afford right now since we've been in a bad situation recently.

The people that AAA hired to change my battery, they said they would be willing to pay for it, if the fault was on their end. Also, the dealership technician said that he's seen this before, but there really isn't a way of determining what caused it, so I feel like I'm kind of screwed.

The keys don't work, the ignition button doesn't work, the brakes don't work, steering wheel, and even the windows. I can't even roll up the windows. The only thing that I've seen working is the in-cabin lights and the headlights. That's all.

I mean, I was hoping anyone that's experienced with Infiniti's, or this type of situation, can help me out with information on what potentially caused it, or any alternative fixes. Please and thanks guys.

EDIT: Also, I guess a details I forgot to mention were, I live in California, and they said the part itself was $600+

EDIT 2: Oh and the dealership specifically said they couldn't make any promises on whether or not changing the unit would fix the issue or not. That was just the most "apparent" issue.

Could it just be that a careless handling/fixing of the battery cables caused a short in the ECM?

I'm really not sure. The dealership said they really aren't able to find out what caused it, and I don't really know much about cars. :/

Sometimes as stupid as it is dirty terminals can not give enough juice to turn the motor. Worth loosening, wiggling, and retightening. Sounds like your key FOB isn't talking to the car, which seems ridiculous given a simple battery change.

I don't have an answer to fix the car, but a few thoughts on how to proceed. AAA contracted an insured company to fix your situation, your car worked before they touched it and didn't after they touched it. They supplied the product, they provided the labor. I doubt a judge would ask you to prove that it was their fault in a blatant situation like this. I'm sure AAA or installer can easily be held liable if not both of them...compounded that it was done on their "professional" recommendation.
I suggest you first sweet talk one of these half wit mechanics at infiniti in writing something for you saying that the system was fried when the battery was changed somehow...after all, they are always quick to blame things on anything that didn't come from them. If that doesn't work file a complaint directly with AAA to the highest level...not just the people you get on the phone. At worst case I can see the majority of the cost being covered for you. If need be threaten to (do) take it to those news programs that fight for people against "injustices" and point out the bad publicity, as well as suits, BBB, and all that good stuff. Pretty much make it clear that the cost of not fixing this will be way worse. Hopefully they'll cover it or force the contractor to cover it. Good luck.

Thanks all for the advice.

I don't have an answer to fix the car, but a few thoughts on how to proceed. AAA contracted an insured company to fix your situation, your car worked before they touched it and didn't after they touched it. They supplied the product, they provided the labor. I doubt a judge would ask you to prove that it was their fault in a blatant situation like this. I'm sure AAA or installer can easily be held liable if not both of them...compounded that it was done on their "professional" recommendation.
I suggest you first sweet talk one of these half wit mechanics at infiniti in writing something for you saying that the system was fried when the battery was changed somehow...after all, they are always quick to blame things on anything that didn't come from them. If that doesn't work file a complaint directly with AAA to the highest level...not just the people you get on the phone. At worst case I can see the majority of the cost being covered for you. If need be threaten to (do) take it to those news programs that fight for people against "injustices" and point out the bad publicity, as well as suits, BBB, and all that good stuff. Pretty much make it clear that the cost of not fixing this will be way worse. Hopefully they'll cover it or force the contractor to cover it. Good luck.

I tried getting the dealership mechanic to tell me what caused it, but they kept telling me that it's not something that can be determined. Maybe it is their fault tbh. I'm assuming if a simple battery changed ends up destroying a part of theirs, then it's not a very reliable part.

So far, the dealership seems to be hinting that it wasn't the battery changer's fault.

My car was reading 11.1V for 8+ hours 20 miles after I put in my new battery and throwing a CEL. I detached the negative cable for 20 minutes and it was all good afterward.

I would try that and double check for loose/dirty terminals per Paranoidjacks's recommendation.

Did you try the key fob slot in the dash? Check the key fob battery?

tbright wrote:My car was reading 11.1V for 8+ hours 20 miles after I put in my new battery and throwing a CEL. I detached the negative cable for 20 minutes and it was all good afterward.

I would try that and double check for loose/dirty terminals per Paranoidjacks's recommendation.

Did you try the key fob slot in the dash? Check the key fob battery?

Yeah I tried the key FOB slot on the dash. It didn't work.

I took it to the place that changed the battery and they said they would see what they could do. They're going to use a car locksmith or something and get different opinions on what happened.

I know this is an old topic,but does anybody know the results?I'm having the same exact issue right now.

Good Morning , this seems to be a familiar issue with these vehicles, check to see if your car was repaired from a recall of the ECM. This recall was from year 06-11 (I think) but this could save you a "ton" of money if it wasn't done. If it was done, have the diagnostics done on your vehicle and it should shoot the codes that are causing the problem, but your only conundrum with this is the vehicle must be able to start and be running to read the codes. So....when you get it started take it and have the codes read, DO NOT CUT THE VEHICLE OFF. It sounds like a module problem. I hope this helps you and great luck in solving your issue.

Yea it wont do anything.i even tried swapping the fog light relay into the ecm relay in the ipdm.fusible links all look good,and I tried tapping on the steering wheel lock module and nothing.

I'm thinking bad ipdm or security since the light is flashing.

Could be the IPDM as well. Keep me posted and as soon as I have mine diagnosed I will inform you.

This repair from the "stealership" will run about 1300.00-1500.00 dollars. Replacement of the IPMD. CRAZY!!!!!

so was it the impd??!

Good Day swam11, I am having my vehicle diagnosed today. Our vehicles seem to share the same symptoms. By the way, did you have yours looked at?

I brought mine to 2 different shops and neither one could figure it out.its at the dealer now and he is kinda mad(I'm really mad) at what the last shop did.the lost my key,broke my start button,fried my smart key module,and now i.need a new steering column lock actuator.what I dont get is that the actuator I can find for 800 online but just about the same part for a m37,g37,m56 etc is like 300

Well finally got my car back may 20th after the dealer had it for 6 months.i really dont know what the original problem was because the shop that had it before the dealer fried everything in it.the dealer replaced a bunch of modules and computers.the service manager told me they only charged me for 20 hrs labor when they really had over 45 hrs in it.told me I should get a lawyer to see if I could recoup some money.car runs great now and happy to have it back.