Infiniti j30t stalls

Post by **holabola** » Tue Sep 22, 2009 9:40 am

I have a 1996 Infiniti j30t and I bought this car from a single owner in Feb 2003. The car is running fine until last month with no issues whatsoever. The only change since last year that I have made to the car is that I started filling 87 unleaded instead of 93 (suggested one) since last year. Now here is the problem -

Sometimes when I start the car, the car shakes up and doesn't start. Then I need to hit the gas to start it. When I take the car and drive it for a mile, it stalls. I have to start it again and i had run for 35 miles without any issue. This has happened twice once in the morning and once in the evening.

Also, when I drive the car for 30 or more miles and take out the foot from the gas pedal and i turn left, the car stalls. Power is on but the engine is off and the power steering doesn't respond. I had to restart the car and when I go another 200 feet and slowed down, it will stall again. The service guy didn't find any issue and wanted to come back again when the problem resurfaces. I got the the problem again now and I am totally confused. The very next day, I started the care and it worked fine. Can you all please help me? I have read other forums where some people have the same problem.

Thank you all,- holabola

Post by **yodawill2000** » Tue Sep 22, 2009 10:03 am

93 octane is suggested because the engine was designed to require it. Your injectors are clogging as well as other internals.You might try some Redline SL1 with a half tank of 93 Octane and see if it doesn't help.Why did you go to 87 ??Its only a few bucks a tank difference ??

And Welcome to Nico !

Post by **driverdriver** » Tue Sep 22, 2009 10:17 am

Minimum octane for the engine in this car is octane 91.

Try cleaning out your injectors.

Post by **holabola** » Tue Sep 22, 2009 10:17 am

Thanks for the quick reponse. Since I have very little knowledge of what needs to done, Can you please explain in layman terms? Do you want me to put the Redline SL1 in the gas tank along with premium gas to clean the clogs? I will be using 93 from here on? I made a mess.

Thanks,Holabola

Post by **driverdriver** » Tue Sep 22, 2009 10:22 am

Yoda, can you confirm for me that Redline SL1 goes into the gas tank only when the tank is full? We don't get the Redline SL1 product up here.

Post by **yodawill2000** » Tue Sep 22, 2009 10:44 am

It can be used with a Half tank for a stronger dose.Important to run it to near redline (No Punn Intended )To get full fuel pressure to blow the gunk out.

Pep Boys is the only place around here that carries it. But many on Ebay sell it.

Post by **alex61089** » Tue Sep 22, 2009 6:28 pm

Pepboys sells them for about 8 dollars a bottle. By the way if anyone is interested i can sell them discounted at bulk 6, 12, 18, ect. email me for more [email protected]

But anyway DO NOT run that cheap watered down stuff. 87 and 91 is only about 10 cents difference. Running 91 or 93 as i do will save your engine and your injectors.

Post by **holabola** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 3:38 am

My car stalled today right at the red light traffic and its like the engine got shut off all of a sudden. The guy behind me had to slam his brakes. Thank god coz the traffic is slow as I was approaching red light. Then I restarted the car and the car started and worked like a charm. I am going to buy that redline sl1 today. Yesterday I filled up the gas (93) at sams club. I am not sure if Sams Club 93 is good enough. But my question is, I have 3/4 of tank right now, Can I put the redline sl1 (full bottle)? Thanks yoda. I will give at a try from pep boys first and then order from you. Thank you all for your responses. Just pray god that my car wont stall again in the middle of fast moving traffic.

Post by **yodawill2000** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 4:33 am

Ive used it with half a tank before.Should be fine.

Post by **alex61089** » Thu Sep 24, 2009 10:07 am

clean your mass air flow sensor use MAF cleaner, CRC makes it.

Post by **holabola** » Wed Sep 30, 2009 7:28 am

I have put Redline SL1 on 9/23 with 3/4th tank. I drove 40 miles that day without any problems. From 9/24 to 9/27, I didn't use my car except for short drives. on 9/28, I drove 70 - 80 miles with no issues. On 09/29, my morning drive for 35 miles has no issues but on my way to home and after driving 25 miles, on a local road, when there was traffic near the red light, it stopped and stalled. I had to restart it and found no issues until now. I drove atleast 40 miles since then. My tank is 1/4th full now. Can you guys please let me know if I can put another bottle of redline sl1 when I fill up gas next time?

During my last car service, the service guy did BG fuel induction, clean o2 sensors, replaced fuel filter etc but he could not find any problem why the car was stalling. I am totally confused as what to do next.

Post by **yodawill2000** » Wed Sep 30, 2009 10:14 am

Hmm the BG induction cleaning should have cleaned it out well.But the prob we have here the issue with ethanol.That is why I run Redline once a month.

Post by **driverdriver** » Wed Sep 30, 2009 12:24 pm

The J doesn't like short trips. The engine wasn't designed for that. Short trips can create a stalling or no start issue. My recommend is when you start the car after a period of time (i.e. overnight, at the end of a work or school day) to at least let the car warm up for 15-20 minutes before driving off. If the car isn't fully warm and is subjected to many starts and stops it will (a.)stall (b.)not start.

Post by **holabola** » Tue Oct 20, 2009 4:11 am

Thank you all for your help. My problem although solved to some extent, occasionally or every other day, it stalls, even after I did the following:

1. Added Redline sl1 2. Warming up the car every day for 15 to 20 min in the morning and evening. 3. Did BF Fuel induction package and oil filter change at the mechanic. 4. Been using premium unleaded since last month.

Here are some thing I have noticed.

1. The car starts normally everytime in the morning and only twice it had stalled in the morning times until now since the problem started. Once, it stalled because of stopping and starting for gas fill up. 2. When I start the car, the car vibrated sometimes and fluctuates the engine rpm from idle to 1500 rpm back and forth. So, after the warm up, if i drive the car, it will stall at some point when I slowed down at the traffic or within 2 miles of my start. Also, I have noticed that the steering wheel will be hard to rotate at the start but becomes normal during the course of travel. 3. When I start the car early in the morning or evening, after the warm up, sometime i feel the steering wheel is hard to tuen but it becomes normal within a minute of my travel.

Do you think I need to check the default idle speed that is set? Who can reset it? Please give me some suggestions.

Thanks,Holabola

Post by **Victor** » Tue Oct 20, 2009 6:36 am

I mostly do short trips in my 94 J30T and have never had a starting problem. In fact sometimes when I come to a long wait traffic light I shut off the engine while I am waiting for it to turn green. Quite often I have to start my car for only a few seconds to move it around in my driveway so I can move another one of my vehicles. Those of you that have starting problems due to short trips probably have a lemon. Idling a car for 15 minutes is a waste of gas, find the real problem.

Post by **yodawill2000** » Tue Oct 20, 2009 8:52 am

Try that when its 25 degrees out. lol

I don't have the problem either but I guarantee DriverDriver doesnt have a lemon, Just a cold enviroment.

Post by **GerryO** » Tue Oct 20, 2009 9:42 am

holabola wrote:Thank you all for your help. My problem although solved to some extent, occasionally or every other day, it stalls, even after I did the following:

1. Added Redline sl1 2. Warming up the car every day for 15 to 20 min in the morning and evening. 3. Did BF Fuel induction package and oil filter change at the mechanic. 4. Been using premium unleaded since last month.

Here are some thing I have noticed.

1. The car starts normally everytime in the morning and only twice it had stalled in the morning times until now since the problem started. Once, it stalled because of stopping and starting for gas fill up. 2. When I start the car, the car vibrated sometimes and fluctuates the engine rpm from idle to 1500 rpm back and forth. So, after the warm up, if i drive the car, it will stall at some point when I slowed down at the traffic or within 2 miles of my start. Also, I have noticed that the steering wheel will be hard to rotate at the start but becomes normal during the course of travel. 3. When I start the car early in the morning or evening, after the warm up, sometime i feel the steering wheel is hard to turn but it becomes normal within a minute of my travel.

Do you think I need to check the default idle speed that is set? Who can reset it? Please give me some suggestions.

Thanks,Holabola

All things normal the engine should come to full temperature after a cold start-up and with ZERO warm-up time, after just a couple of miles of normal driving. Victor is right about fixing the real problem, which could be a matter of just disassembling and cleaning a few items. Short trips shouldn't be a problem, if things are clean and in good working order.

How long does the engine take to fully warm up? The thermostat could be stuck open, if it takes a very long time.

Is it possible that part of your problem is a failing PS pump, that's causing increased load on the engine? When setting the idle speed, one of the specified items is that the wheels be pointed straight.

Engine vibration on start-up is probably one cylinder mis-firing.

How many miles on the engine and have you pulled any codes?

On a car this age vacuum hoses are cracking/leaking, PCV valves and EGR tubes can be clogged, throttle bodies are dirty, electrical connections are more suspect, injector coils are getting closer to failure, etc. All simple stuff and not all fixed simply by pouring bottles of additives into the gas tank.

Post by **yodawill2000** » Tue Oct 20, 2009 2:06 pm

All that is very true.But after Q45Tech posted that link about Oil properties I warm up a minute or two then drive almost without throttle till I get to the main road.About a mile.Oil isn't proficient until 190'ish and the pics showing scored main bearings will get your attention.Why take a chance when your shooting for 300K.Revving above 1500/2000 K when the oil is still cool WILL lessen bearing life.Pure and Simple.I'm talking dino oil FYI.

Post by **GerryO** » Tue Oct 20, 2009 3:45 pm

yodawill2000 wrote:All that is very true.But after Q45Tech posted that link about Oil properties I warm up a minute or two then drive almost without throttle till I get to the main road.About a mile.Oil isn't proficient until 190'ish and the pics showing scored main bearings will get your attention.Why take a chance when your shooting for 300K.Revving above 1500/2000 K when the oil is still cool WILL lessen bearing life.Pure and Simple.I'm talking dino oil FYI.

Hi Paul,

Just starting my cold engine makes for an idle speed of 1,500+ rpms in Park and I'm a big believer in at least synthetic blend oil. The first part of my commute takes me down a street with multiple dips (much more effective than speed bumps), so it's slow going for me too, as the engine warms up.

If I were consciously shooting for 300K, I'd drop the oil pan to clean things out. When is your plenum pull going to happen, unless I missed it?

Post by **yodawill2000** » Tue Oct 20, 2009 3:50 pm

Waiting till the Misses is off for the Holidays (School District) to jump in so I can still get to work.When i get the drip fixed I will be blended as well.Would be costly right now .

Post by **holabola** » Wed Oct 21, 2009 2:38 am

Here are the answers:

How long does the engine take to fully warm up?

On idle, it take 20 - 25 min. But, when I drive, within 2 -3 miles, it fully warms up.

How many miles on the engine and have you pulled any codes?

133,660. I dont know much about car mechanics. Since, the engine light is not on, I havent taken to a mechanic to pull the code(s).

Also, what should I do for the below:

Engine vibration on start-up is probably one cylinder mis-firing.

The above happens occassionally.

Any ideas, how much it costs to fix the below: (I have a mechanic near my home and he has his own garage and I can buy the part online, he can fix it).

On a car this age vacuum hoses are cracking/leaking, PCV valves and EGR tubes can be clogged, throttle bodies are dirty, electrical connections are more suspect, injector coils are getting closer to failure, etc. All simple stuff and not all fixed simply by pouring bottles of additives into the gas tank.

PS: In the last 2 years, I have noticed some electrical connection failures such as the antenna is stuck and doen't go down (but makes sound when I start and stop the car), the heated seats doesn't work, the heated seat switch doesn't lit etc.,

Thank you all for your answers.

- hB

Post by **GerryO** » Wed Oct 21, 2009 9:51 am

Make sure your mechanic has a copy of the FSM and reads through the extensive Engine Stalling trouble-shooting section, has access to all of the TSBs and is comfortable with working on the car.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/J30/

And maybe print all of this (Part 1 and Part 2) out for him, and have him clean the MAF and the air filter:

http://home.swipnet.se/e-solutions/IdleTech.html

Some codes do not cause the CEL to turn ON.

Have the PS fluid level checked and changed?

Have the injectors ohm checked and numerous vacuum lines at least visually examined.

The antenna is supposed to automatically go down whenever you turn the ignition OFF and come up if the radio is ON when the ignition is ON.

Post by **yodawill2000** » Wed Oct 21, 2009 2:04 pm

The sound you hear when the antenna should go up or down is most likely stripped gears on the plastic actuator strip.Fairly common.Easy fix.

Post by **puck** » Wed Oct 21, 2009 2:22 pm

Victor wrote:I mostly do short trips in my 94 J30T and have never had a starting problem. In fact sometimes when I come to a long wait traffic light I shut off the engine while I am waiting for it to turn green. Quite often I have to start my car for only a few seconds to move it around in my driveway so I can move another one of my vehicles. Those of you that have starting problems due to short trips probably have a lemon. Idling a car for 15 minutes is a waste of gas, find the real problem.

I agree. I've owned my j30 for 3 years and most of time drove it daily only 2 miles each way to and from work. In the winter, it wasn't even all the way warmed up by time I got to work. I've never had these problems. If I did, I'd figure out what is wrong or sell the car.

Post by **timo74** » Sat Nov 21, 2009 9:11 pm

yoda, I recently acquired a beautiful j30t. yr 96. miles 123,000 Serious. drives like a Gem. however the trunk fills with water and not sure what that is all about. Second the radio does not work. it lights up and all but does not turn on.Last but not least there seems to be a low hum when the car is at around 40 mph. this gives my voice a shaky feeling as if I was making an Ahhhh sound and hitting my chest repeatedly. It's not that bad but i can hear it.One last thing, it changes gears quite abruptly. not always.cheers

Post by **timo74** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 8:57 pm

where is the MAF on the j30t located cheers

Post by **yodawill2000** » Tue Nov 24, 2009 3:10 am

Squarish box just behind the Air Filter.Has a connector connected to the rear of it.

Post by **REXNATION** » Mon Mar 14, 2011 5:19 am

HELLO IF ANYONE CAN HELP I HAVE A 93 INFINITI J30t I BOUGHT IT ABOUT A YEAR AGO AND IT HAS NEVER GIVIN ME ANY PROBLEMS UNTIL ROUGHLY A MONTH AGO THE PROBLEMS WITH IT ARE-------
---THE IDLE JUMPS AND DROPS BETWEEN 2200 AND 1000 AS IF I WAS REVING IT BASICALLY WHEN EVER IM NOT ON THE GAS IN GEAR OUT OF GEAR STOPPED GOING 50MPH IT DOESNT MATTER--
---THE IDLE SITS AT ABOUT 2200 IN PARK WHEN FIRST START UP THEN AFTER ABOUT 30 SEC IT SLOWLY DROPS TO 1000 THEN WHEN I PUT IT IN GEAR IT DROPS TO ABOUT 500 LET SIT FOR A MINUTE IT JUMPS BACK TO 1000--
---IT WILL RANDOMLY DIE/STALL OUT EVERY SINGLE TIME I DRIVE IT --
---THE TEMP GAUGE NOW SITS AT A LITTLE LITTLE OVER HALFWAY--
---WHEN I GO TO FLOOR IT THE ENGINE DIES--
---IT HAS A LACK OF POWER WHEN ACCELERATING--
---IT MAKES A NOISE LIKE THERES METAL KLINKING AROUND ONLY WHEN I ACCELERATE--
IVE REPLACED THE CRANK ANGLE SENSOR THE THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR AND THIS IS GETTING COSTLY DONT WANT 2 KEEP REPLACING PARTS IF IT DOESNT NEED IT PLEASE IF YOU CAN HELP THANK YOU

Post by **driverdriver** » Mon Mar 14, 2011 5:07 pm

Welcome to NICO REXNATION!

Can you please not type with you all caps on. It conveys yelling.

What you're describing can have a number of causes. Have you pulled codes from the ECU yet? It will help us help you.

Post by **REXNATION** » Mon Mar 14, 2011 10:44 pm

sorry about the caps thanks for the welcome and no i have not pulled codes how and where do i go to pull codes

Infiniti j30t stalls

Infiniti j30t stalls

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