Infiniti i30 '01 power steering issue

[NissanMania]

Power steering pump seemed to make a lot of noise. Turning the steering wheel when the car is first started is hard. The steering wheel shakes. I looked under the hood and noticed it was wet with power steering fluid; but, the reservoir was still full. I changed the high pressure hose maybe five years ago because it was broken. But not sure if that is the cause of the recent issue. I went ahead and changed out the power steering pump and now it shakes and is hard to turn during a cold start. It also squeals when the wheel is turned completely in either direction after the car is warmed up and driven. Not sure what else to do. Can anyone help?

[NutriaforBreakfast]

Make sure the air is bled out first-use shop manual directions
It is normal for noise to occur at the end of the turning strokes
You might try changing the PS fluid
Your power steering and rack and pinion use the power steering fluid reservoir to work
If either was leaking the reservoir would run out or the leak is so small you can't tell
It might be motor oil coming from your valve covers
Or your rack and pinion might be going out
BTW my R&P on my 1995 just died for the first time and I paid $700 for another one installed

[NissanMania]

I found out what is producing the noise. When the steering wheel is turned completely in either direction, the power steering pump pulley seems to stop its rotation and the drive belt continues to rotate because of the crank shaft. It's the friction caused from the belt rubbing the stopped pulley. Is that normal for the pump to stop its rotation at the end? Can the rack and pinion cause this?

[NutriaforBreakfast]

In my opinion -no
For the car to continue a sharp turn the rack & pinion needs the hydraulic force of the PS fluid
from the pump
Is the belt tight enough? If not make it tight enough to just turn the pulley
Check the condition of the belt as well to see if it is about to break
A squeeling belt is a symptom of a loose belt generally
Before starting you might want to de-grease underneath and find the oil leak too

[NissanMania]

Hey, NutriaforBreakfast. Thanks for the insight. I ended up having to change the crankshaft pulley (which broke apart while driving) and I addressed all the belts. The belts were literally half its normal width. It was in terrible condition. I didn't realize it before because I didn't have a new one to compare it to. With all that...this car is begging to be put down. The A/C stopped working. I'm looking into that now. Happy Memorial day!

[ArmedAviator]

Just needs a little TLC and you can get an easy few more years out of it.

Is the belt on the compressor properly and tight enough? With the engine off and key ON, when you turn the A/C on, do you hear the compressor clutch click? With the engine running, does the compressor clutch engages and turn? Does the clutch engages and disengage often? If it does engage and disengage often, you likely have a coolant leak and are low on oil and coolant. Unless you know what you're doing, have it checked out by a reputable A/C repair shop or the dealer. You can replace parts yourself to save on labor, but have an A/C shop evacuate your system before repairs and refill it afterwards. They'll usually charge around $30-50 to just purge and fill.

[NutriaforBreakfast]

I think you can work on the clutch without losing AC vacuum/Freon and
not have to undo the lines
I have never done it so not sure if you have the clearance however
There are u tube videos (Bordminder made some and he was on this forum)
However I have noticed the way AC parts are priced it
can be expensive to just replace the clutch (as the AC compressor price
appears to be include the clutch). You might go to the junkyard and get
just the clutch-not sure.
I have seen AC procedures in the forem somewhere and they were really good