I need to find an independent Infiniti specialist in Orange County. Coming up empty online. Any recommendations?

Only "specialist" I know of is Specialty-Z out by northeast LA, or possibly Jim-Wolf Tech closer to San Diego.

Specialty-Z has done some good work on my car as well as many others, however, their prices are high and the wait times can be high too for the work. They mostly do major stuff, not like general maintenance stuff. Also their knowledge of our much older cars like these 2006's has waned a bit in more recent years simply because much less people have them or want to do major work into them.
JWT is very expensive and can have some serious wait times for projects, also they are more of a major project place too and make engine parts. Not your run of the mill maintenance shop.

I heard about someplace in OC one way back. I think they were around Yorba Linda area. They had Infiniti tuning software and a dyno so were able to do a lot more with our cars than a basic shop. That was a great many years ago though and I have no idea what the name was or if they are still around.



edit: you could try out Project Import in Orange. Their website shows quite a few Infiniti's on it and also features a turbo project they did. So the shop obviously has a good bit of knowledge on our cars.

Thanks Enigma, I am trying to see if there is an easy fix. My general mechanic has run out of ideas and can only get limited diagnostics on his reader and no tuning.

If it is an electronics or dash problem, have you looked in the second secret menu? It lists when you have connections problems to various electronic devices in there.

If it is drivetrain related, someone with full tuning software would be able to see compression, air fuel ratios, oil pressures, timing, oxygen levels, etc and probably be able to diagnose a problem relating to the engine function.

It is P0300, P0011, P0021 errors.

My reader will only let me clear. P0300 says intake leaks somewhere. it is mostly P0011 and P0021. Timing too far advanced. I have replaced all of the sparkplugs, 2 of the coil paks, both VVT solenoids so far, wheel bearings, as well as front and rear brakes. Idles rough, runs strong when not at idle.

I am out of work and spending a ton of money isn't in the cards. I need to get it running to where I can sell it for $2k (what I paid for it 11 months ago).

camshafts not being set right can cause rough idle and nice higher RPM running. Maybe one of them skipped a tooth and is off the rotation from where it should be? That happened to me before from low oil and too hard of driving. Rought idle can also be caused by the issue of a leak in the intake though too, as the engine cant regulate the air it gets properly.

Intake leak could be a ripped plastic tubing, or from a dirty MAF sensor, a cracked vacuum line around the intake area, or a bad gasket on the upper or lower plenum.
If the intake tube itself is ripped this is before the throttle body, but it could be messing with readings the MAF is getting so the car doesnt know the correct throttle body position to use or how much fuel to use and could cause a problem. The MAF cleaner is cheap at any auto parts store. Be careful inspecting the intake tube as with it this old even taking the intake off can cause it to rip. That also happened to me which is why I got an Injun intake to replace my ripped one. The vacuum lines are also brittle and can crack by this point. You have one that runs from the brake booster to the intake plenum and this keeps the booster in vacuum. You also have one that runs between the two valve covers. And a third somewhere I cant remember.

the cam could have jumped a tooth from low oil, is that a relatively easy fix or not? That was something that happened prior to the start of all this, the oil got low, even though the oil light did not come on.

TeddWoody wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 29, 2020 3:48 pm

the cam could have jumped a tooth from low oil, is that a relatively easy fix or not? That was something that happened prior to the start of all this, the oil got low, even though the oil light did not come on.

I never actually got around to fixing the camshaft being off. I havent thought much of it because it is only some idle surge which I was used to from my last engine anyway. I would imagine it would be a good bit of work to fix the timing though as you have to remove the timing cover and loosen the timing chain. Technically you need some special tools to attach to the crankshaft for seeing the degrees and all that. Usually this is set with the engine out of the car. It probably *can* be done while still in the car but I wouldnt know the procedure. This would be something that experienced tuning shops would do since they are used to camshaft swaps and adjustments. probably more money than its really worth if the engine still works fairly decent and only has some idle surge. Especially if you just want to fix this, and not do a bunch of performance and tuning upgrade at the same time. But you never know until you talk to one of the shops and see what they say.

Exactly, I have an appt tomorrow to have them give me a full diagnosis on it. Thanks for your help!

TW