nismo1003 wrote:I am about to rebuild my engine, I'm getting a set of 9.1 forged piston , all the gasket , bigger intercooler 24" X12" X2.5" , get the block bored for the piston and deck the head and the block, since I'm taking the block out ,I'm thinking to upgrade the oil pump, right now I"m already running a Dual Amsoil filter plus a decent size Oil cooler at the Front, the oil route run like this Block Out(where the filter go)> Dual Oil filter > Oil cooler > Block . I"m worry if the stock oil pump can't handle it , what is ur recommandation? stay with stock one ? upgrade a better one ? ADD a IN-line oil pump? Do I really need to change out my Timing Chain? I thought Timing Chain didn't need to replace if there are no crack ?
what thermostate I should get ? what about the Head gasket ? ROL ? Felpro? to handle 14 to 18psi.
I"ve already installed the H2o/Methol injection. I'm goign to try it out after the engine break in. the engine had 11000 miles on it and I have been boosting for a year (8PSI) , what else stuff I need to replace and recommanded ?
where I can get a set of Forged piston for reasonable price ?
I can't answer all your questions, but...
http://www.importperformanceparts.net/
You can get Forged Wiseco 9:1 pistons/wrings for only $419, which is what I will be getting once I rebuild my engine...Wiseco is top-notch.
If the engine only had 11,000 miles on it (I think this may have been a typo and perhaps you meant 110,000 miles), theres probably no need to replace the timing chain. But the way I see it, if you're going to have the engine out and stripped down to replace everything else, you may as well replace the timing chain (even if it isn't "cracked," it will still wear like any other part), especially if you have more miles than 11,000. It doesn't cost that much and it could save you some headaches in the future.
Also, why are you running a "dual amsoil oil filter" ???
It's always a good idea to rebuild the head/valvetrain as well while you're at it. You don't need fancy titanium springs and retainers and stainless steel black nitrided inake and exhaust valves, but it's a good idea to get it back to tip-top shape by making it like a new OEM head.
ARP head/main stud kit could be a pretty good investment as well...(
http://www.ka24de.com)
Hope that helped.
Marc