In search of the V8 Flywheel Locking Tool. J-45476

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EdBwoy
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Hey folks, I am looking for a certain tool and I'm hoping to get more eyes here. Not much luck searching in the v8 engine sub-forums.

It is known in Nissan circles as a ring gear stopper, but could be referred to as a flywheel lock tool. The Kent-Moore part number is J-45476.
This aptly named tool is jammed in the access hole of an oil pan facing the flywheel/ring gear and locks the rotating assembly to enable you to loosen/tighten the crankshaft bolt without unnecessary disassembly of other components.

I am certain that it works on both the VK45DE and VK56DE v8 engines. So M45, Q45, FX45, Armada, QX56. With a retail price usually North of $250, I am trying my best to not to give an arm for a tool that might not get more than a few uses. I have a few more engines I intend to play with, but this is just a hobby.

Might anyone here have connections to any sources/ old stock/ unused tools that could work a deal with me? Anyone still use these at their shops?
I would like to buy one cheaply or rent one, with me covering shipping of course.


Thanks in advance.
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PapaSmurf2k3
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I've jammed a block of wood between the flywheel and the ground before. That seemed to do a pretty good job.

You could also just put a breaker bar on the crank pulley and bump the starter.

EdBwoy
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I've been working with wood lately, so I will see if I can get something to work. The engine is mated to the trans in the car, so it limits my freedom a little.

The starter bump works flawlessly for bolt loosening but my problem is tightening it. The earlier manuals called for loosening/tightening the bolt by jamming a wooden hammer in the crankshaft, which I did when the engine was on the stand with the oil pan removed. Upon starting it, I noticed the new crank seal was leaking so I used the starter bump method to remove the bolt, pulley, then replace the seal. I used an old accessory drive belt like a strap wrench and I thought I tightened the hell out of it, but the dang thing came loose on me during some spirited testing.

... which brings us to this day. The dealerships I spoke to are going to charge me approx $150 to tighten this bolt. Their justification is that they have to move a lot of the radiator related stuff to gain room to use an impact gun, which I understand, but I am also considering just buying my own impact tool. I figured most shops wouldn't be messing with the crank bolts unless the engine was out. (I assume the v8 in the m56 and newer qx56 allows more clearance because I have read of some of their timing chain recalls being done with the engine still in the vehicles).

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Ah, tightening.
Yeah I always just put it in 5th gear with the E-brake on... but I guess you don't have that option.

EdBwoy
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Hah, not as long as I am still attracted to Nissan luxury V8s. Hopefully my tinkering will enable me to find a way to get a 3rd pedal in the M45 footwell.
Thanks for your help.

EdBwoy
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I had to wait for a few test drives since I fixed this, just so I didn't jinx myself.

First, here are pictures of the pulley itself.
1. Plain pulley
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2. How the crank bolt goes in. The bolt could hide the "locating hole" that has a dowel pin go through it into the crankshaft. It's pretty soft and sheared when I removed the bolt, I wonder how well it holds on the way in.
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3. Close up
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4. Then I had to remove the hex bolt/key to see what it's holding. Nothing. Just a bolt and a bushing.
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5. Back side.
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6. Showing the insulator through the back. Had me scratching my head trying to figure out why the hex is there. Everything looks like it was press fit. I suppose the hex bolt is a form of counterbalance. The outer ring also has dimples for the same purpose I believe.
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I did go to a Nissan dealership close by and told them I wanted to tighten my crank bolt on the M45 and that it would require the Armada tool. They said they had it on hand, and it could cost approx $100 for them to tighten just the bolt. They wanted to know if the dowel pin was still there for balancing purposes (fair point) and I said no. So that's another possible $100 to get another pin :eek: :nono:
So far, nothing that warrants a $100 upcharge that I can see.


Part 2 is me trying to tighten the bolt again without going to the poor house. Some of these pictures didn't come out looking too pretty, but hey noone that I've known looks pretty at 2AM either.

I tried using a serpentine belt on the pulley wound up on a piece of wood then wedged to a crossmember like I had done it before. It worked well enough to snap 2 belts.
[No pictures here]

Next I got another belt and wound it on itself and hooked on a pin jutting from the engine (this time on the junk engine)
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This works perfectly to hold the outer ring but after seeing what could happen, I will avoid such methods for this type of assembly. The insulator ripped and the inner part started spinning against the pulley as I turned the bolt. But it has a strong hold, and I can vouch for that.
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I am glad the belt snapped on my first wood-jamming attempt or that pulley would have ended up like this one too.
I am also glad I didn't find a strap wrench/chain large enough for the job because I'd probably be right there in this unpleasant situation.

Remember those 6 metric holes around the crank bolt in the pulley pictures? This is where they come into play.
3rd, on my trip to Autozone & OReilly's, mainly seeking out recommendations for a machine shop, I spotted this tool:
tool # 67065from OReilly's
Approx 60 bucks to rent it and that is refunded when you return it. I found some hard-looking bolts in my stash and even went to Lowe's for some Grade 8.8, but they are M6x1.0 bolts so bending was kind of inevitable.
The idea was to hold the inner disc stationary without messing with the outer ring, then turn the bolt to pull the whole pulley assembly even closer to the crankshaft.
Anyway, this is how I used it:
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I jammed the red handle on the ground and stepped on the breaker bar with the 19mm socket as gently-yet-firmly as I could. After a few attempts and adjustments, it went an extra approx 120 degrees beyond what I had done with the belt earlier. When the engine started lifting, I decided to stop, not wanting to damage my motor mounts.

Anyway, I haven't attempted another 0-60 sprint yet, but I kept jabbing the throttle to about 4,000 rpm - something that was sure to spin it loose before. So far at 6,000 rpm, so good.

Happy motoring. :shifter:

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Nifty. With the engine out of the car, you probably could have just used an impact gun though.

EdBwoy
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Thanks.
And you're correct. The one on the engine stand is a junk one that threw a rod - used it to take pics. The one that needed tightening is still in the car.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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It all makes sense now.
We'll s*** thanks for doing the writeup!

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Nice work! Congrats on kicking its a**. Not too often you get a demo to learn on.

EdBwoy
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Thanks guys. I don't wish this experience upon even my enemies, but if it comes to it, I hope this thread helps.

Sstupid
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This makes me want to pay Infiniti to do this. Oh, I found in the manual where it says not to remove that hexagonal bolt with the “balance weight” on it. It sounds so easy in the instructions to remove and install the crank pulley.

EdBwoy
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The biggest joke was me thinking I was done messing with these engines. I broke down and ended up buying the locking tool when I could find one.
It costs an arm and a leg, but in my opinion, it pays for itself in about 2 uses. I use it often.

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EdBwoy
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