In need of engine swap

[DeltaZulu]

I know this subject has been discussed here before but I need an advice.

My son's 240SX-SE 1990 (KE24E M/T 166K miles)engine broke down. Both head and sylinder block are damaged and we are considering to mount used (or rebuilt) KE24E engines. I checked around and price range was $800 ~ $1,700. While doing this, I noticed used SR20DET are offered around $2,000. My questions are:

Any recommendations where to find reasonable priced KE24E?

How tricky is it to mount SR20DET? I am confident to mount OHC KE24E but have no idea at all for SR.

I am in Chicago area. Your advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

[ItzGenX]

These grammatical errors hurt my eyes! Firstly, its KA24E, not KE. Also, there are no tricks at all to mount the SR20DET. It's all about the wiring.

[SpeedRacer1]

KA24E = $200-300 usedKA24DE = ~$600 used with any amount of milesSR's mount just fine, they have the same mounts as the KA and CA18DET.

[Nathan]

Check the for sale section of these forums for some good cheap KA's...you could even go to the hassle of putting in a KA24DE if you wanted a newer lower mileage engine (I dont think it's much harder than just dropping a new KA24E in). Another swap that I would recommend is the CA18DET...not quite as much power but a very sturdy iron block engine with a great valvetrain, really a good engine, it's only shortfall is that it looses .2 liters displacement to the SR which isnt much a problem at all. You could get a whole CA front clip shipped to your house for under 2000 dollars, the wiring is even a little easier than the SR...the harness is actually too long so there is no need to extend wires . OR, you could go with an RB20, Venus-Auto has them for 1200 dollars right now plus shipping which isnt a bad price either. However, it will take a little bit more work to get in and the wiring is a bit on the annoying side. All of these motors pretty much bolt right in to the stock location without any need for custom motor mounts. Also...I bet your son will LOVE you if you help him with any of these options

[honda2tyte4uJDMwinna]

Well the sr20det swap is easy. Just drops in with the transmission bolted up and everything. Wiring isnt too difficult but if you are lazy there are a number of companies that will do it for you. Phase2 did a great job and even labeled all the plugs. But the swap will usually cost more than you think. there are many little things that you will want.

fuel pumpfuel filtergauges to monitor enginethe 90 cluster doesnt work if i remeber correctly ( tach at least )hope you got a cherry pickerfluidspeople say to use 91+ p/s lines, but we just redid the stock ones

I'm sure that i've forgot to list something but im really lazy. Also if you do decide to go SR, get your clip from a good source, if some of the parts are busted you dont wanna have to be spending extra to replace what should have worked in the first place.

If a couple of teenagers could swap it in a few days, im sure you could do it as well.

[DeltaZulu]

Thank you all for information. I will start to look around.

[Nathan]

Good luck, come back and tell us how it goes!

[DeltaZulu]

I received Nissan Service Manual today and I am familiarizing myself for the repair. I am preparing to hoist cylinder block from the engine compartment. Pardon my ignorance but do I have to hoist cylinder block + clutch + transmission assembly all together? Is there any way to hoist engine part only? My confidence is sagging....

Thank you in advance.

[Nathan]

just pull it out in one piece...engine and transmission still together, it's not that hard with a cherry picker. If that wont work, do it the way I did it: put the car on like 20 inch jackstands, put them right on the crossmember under the oil pan, unbolt the transmission (it's a bit hard with the firewall so close, but doable) pull your driveshaft, unbolt the transmission and let it fall to the garage floor...then tie a rope around it and pull it out from underneath then get two 4x4 posts and a lot of rope, put them across the engine bay (take the hood off) and tie the engine to them really well, get you and 3 strong friends and pull the engine out that way It worked for me!

[DeltaZulu]

Thank you for your info. I will invite my friends for beer this weekend.

Thanks again.

[Nathan]

No problem, good luck...oh, and that method will most likely NOT work for putting an engine in unless you have VERY large strong friends who dont mind holding it for quite some time...the engine without the transmission is only like 200lbs. or less once you strip all the stuff like intake manifold, ac compressor, alternator, etc. off of it, I even pulled the cylinder head but you dont have to, I just wanted to see how badly it was destroyed

[DeltaZulu]

Thank you all. I have successfully completed mounting a used KA24E to my 240SX 90.

I shopped around but did not find any used engine at reasonable cost as some said. I paid $650 (89, 85K, A/T with inj + Ex) to used parts shop. They showed the car (rear end damage) and compression test result before removing the engine from the body. I was impressed with the way do the business.

I used a hoist for the first time but it was a straight forward procedure. I installed a new clutch assembly after swapped a flywheel (A/T to M/T) while engine was out. Since my car was California spec, I noticed some difference in injection parts. Also, clutch slave cylinder was replaced.

Everything is OK. Oh, by the way, I noticed a surging noise from the "new" engine (cam area?) at 2200 ~2500 rpm range regardless of engine temperature. Does anybody have any idea what is causing this noise?

Thank you again.

[Nathan]

Contratulations, sounds like it went really smoothly I think you only find screaming deals if: a) your lucky OR b) you have a lot of patience, 650 isnt too bad for a good engine that you feel good about in my mind anyway