In need of advice converting ka24e block to ka24de

[cmoody2006]

Def searched and came up with this....

its been done but its a huge waste of time and money. its supposed to raise compression to 11:1. its a good set up but you will have to change timing covers, timing set up, oilpan, distributor, and a few other things. i'm doing a set up that i'm putting the single cam pistons in my dual cam block. its basicly a full rebuild just replacing the dual cam pistons with the singlecam pistons. its a whole lot easier and more affordable.

couldn't find much else so... here goes nothing.....

Here's the situation...

I recently picked up a dohc ka for free - just the price of gas to go get it blown with massive hole in the side of cylinder #1... The head is ok and so is the crank - don't ask me how.... Rod and piston have disintegrated and the oil pan was gone when I got the motor...

I currently have a set of eagle ESP h-beam forged rod's that are brand new in original box...

Here comes this topic into play....

I also have a sohc block that the head gasket blew and overheated warping the head gave ten bucks for it off my friend when he pulled it out of his car... took it to my local machine shop and had them check the deck and crank journals - for free... I know the guy really well...

All is within spec.... and ready to be thrown together... Just need's a crank - sold it a while back.... could possibly get it back tho if i can ever get ahold of the guy just sitting in his garage....

So my questions are: Has there been a write-up for this?

Is it truely possible?

I know I'll have to swap the timing chain cover's...Are the lower timing chain guides the same?

Which crank should I use in the sohc block or are they the same part#?

Will compression be the same as a dohc if I bore the block 20 over and use a set of cp forged piston's?

Second scenerio....

I have a dohc ka in my red s13 right now... I rebuilt it not to long ago and have been busy with other thing's and selling parts to mess with it very much.

The motor has NEVER been fired up and is still at Top dead center....The head has been resurfaced hot-tanked cam journals were polished The block is completely stock... didn't have enough cash nor the time and right tools to delve into rebuilding the bottom end when I was working on it...

Since then I have purchased the eagle rod's and I have the cash to buy forged piston's... Which I'd like to use with my head that's had work done to it... I have ARP head stud's and a Cometic MLS head gasket on it right now... I'm not worried about getting it running the way it is even tho everything is hooked up and ready to rock and roll....

Now your prob askin why not..... since it's all put together right? NO.... I just sold my maroon 240 and I wasn't about to let my full 5 lug swap and 300zx brakes leave with it... So I pulled the suspension and brakes out from under the red 240 and slapped it onto the maroon one so the guy could have a stock rusted rolling chassi....









Red 240's still on blocks right now I know its a lil red-neck right? lol I don't care...

I just bought a set of tein inner and outter tie-rod's, front and rear sway bars and sway bar links, adjustable rear upper control arms, adjustable tension rod's, a set of 20mm and a set of 25mm wheel spacers to throw on it... It's snowing out and I don't have a garage let me remind you that the car is yes... you got it.... On BLOCKS with no shock's no control arm's no wheels no hub's.... NOTHING......................!

Soooooo....... this means all this work has to be done in either the cold a$s weather or wait till spring and knowing me.... I'll prob throw on the carhart and go to work in this shrit!

Also... I bought a very clean rolling chassi for dirt that I couldn't pass up! basically sold my rusted maroon one straight up for a non rusted one It's a 91 and I need a motor for it to have a daily driver. I have a transmission and all the dohc parts in the car still



See where I'm goin yet....?

I def need some Nico help guy's Let's get this all figured out for others that find themselves in this kinda scenario... And lets get me out of a ford race-cort station wagon daily driver!
Modified by cmoody2006 at 5:53 AM 12/13/2008

[cmoody2006]

BUMP need help!

[cmoody2006]

bump could really use some help here guy's....

[cmoody2006]

Hello?

[blackd21vg30de]

hey man, somewhere in here there is a write up on doing a de/e head swap, it took some timing cover fab, and wiring mixin, just sounds like a lot of trubl but it can be done with time and some money, i thnk it would be easier to sell your parts and just get a de and harness, but thats just the easy way out!! Do whatever makes you happy and Good luck with it..

[cmoody2006]

well I've been looking around and haven't found much other info out... I did however pick up a de block completely assembled but I gotta tinker with it some and change the piston's/bore it out so we'll see how this works out.... I'd still like to know if it's been done before... I might attempt it and see if/how it goes... Need to go check some part numbers out first tho....

[cmoody2006]

Did that swap and just pulled it out. You have alot of work ahead of you. You can do this swap though for less than 200 bucks. Lets see if I can remember most of what we did. Obviously you look at the two engines and they are nothing alike. Obviously you change the head, intake and exhaust manifold, front engine and head covers, and oil pan. Get new piston rings and a head gasket for sure. That's the only new stuff we used besides oil and stuff. First is the oiling, the pump is different now and the E block doesn't have oil squirters. Block off the holes in the bottom side of the block for those passages and keep the ones in front open for the new cover. Change all the pump hardware over for the DE. Um..change the balancer and stuff to the DE and find a different collar. You could also change the crank out, but you'll need new bearings. The E crank has a longer front shaft if I remember. Next is the timing. You have to modify one of the larger chain guides by cutting off the top and rounding it out so that it doesn't push the chain right into the idler sprocket. Put all together, then time it in cause it's tight and ít'll need some "love". Don't plan on timing it in the car. Um...heating lines into the back of the block are different and need to be swapped, the bracket for your power stearing doesn't fit and will need to be cut to use the holes that are available on the block. You won't get a/c w/o a custom bracket. Alternator fits good enough. Motor mounts are only off by about a 1/4 inch I think. Engine will sit that much lower...no big deal. It's alot of work but we did this just to see if we could and the thing ran like a bat-outta-hell. When we got done, it was 11.1:1 or 11.7:1 compression ratio, I can't remember. That's why you need new rings. Other than that, we did this swap orginally for 100 bucks as an experiment. We bought the E for 50 bucks, and the headgasket for 50 bucks and put it together. Sorry, oil and anitfreeze, oil sender gasket, intake mani gasket, were a few others. Still. Timed it in and it started on the first try!! Ran good too, real good. Now we're selling the parts for the whole thing if your interested. All this info aside though, it's not gonna do much for a turbo motor. Too high compression and if your gonna spend money on turbo stuff and you say money is no object, than do it right and lower the compression w/ a motor you can buy seperate and still have the motor your driving until that one gets done.Good luck either way!

Modified by ProdOfFL at 7:55 AM 12/26/2006

Well found something useful for once...

[blownhemi]

Hi cmoody!

Did you actually get around to doing the head swap? Did it work out? What did you need/could carry over from the DE? Or does this quote you found cover everything?

[cmoody2006]

welcome to nico

I never got around to it maybe someday when I have time to tinker and cash to blow lol But it is possible