hey ive got some questions about my turbo that im running. its a t3 with a tial 35mm wastegate.
i need to know where to run cooling lines to and from the turbo, ive heard of the tb lines...where on it are they located?
ive got a boost gauge and wanted to know where the best place to run a line to. location would be a great help.
also ive let the car run for a little bit and im getting some oil on the bottom of the turbo exhaust side. does that sound like something youve heard of? what i think is that i have a leak and its running down to that point. any input there would help
another thing, when i first started the car it was idling funny i guess bc it had to get used to it, then i gave it a bit of gas and after i did that the car stalled. does the computer have to adjust to the turbo or what?
thanks guys...
Zak
In middle of turbo install
so u bolted a turbo kit up and have not form of adding more fuel to the system. is that correct? so the turbo is adding more air to the engine than when stock but the ecu is adding the same amount of fuel as stock which means the engine is running lean. im not sure if it would be effected too much at idle cause i have not turboed my car yet but i would think u are running lean which is y u have a bad idle and stalling problems.
well im not really sure what the problem is with the idle and stalling but u will have to upgrade ur fuel system if ur running boost. a few different ways u can do this:1. get a FMU which is a devise that adds a certain amount of fuel pressure to the fuel rail for every psi of boost. this option is only safe up until about 7 psi of boost because it will add ALOT of fuel pressure to ur fuel rail. ex: a 7:1 FMU offered in the NSport kit adds 7 pounds of pressure to the fuel system for every 1 psi of boost. id say it is ok to run a FMU if u want a quick fix while u wait for another source of fuel upgrade and r not running over 5-7 psi of boost.2. JWT ECU retune which is where u send ur ecu into JWT and they will retune the ecu for larger injectors. Pros: it is a plug and play system, u will not have to do the tuning, and no trips to the dyno. Cons: it is quite expensive (near $600), u will be without a ecu for a couple weeks while it gets retuned, and they seem to tune the ecu a little on the rich side for safety reasons. Many people on these forums go with the JWT retune so it is a prooven way to safely run upgraded fuel system.3. buy larger injectors, a piggyback system, and tune urself. this is the way i think i will go. buy some 370-440cc injectors and a piggyback such as the S-AFC II which u will need to individually tune the amount af fuel going to the injectors at a rpm.4. hacked MAF which where u increase the diameter of the intake piping going through the MAF. then u take the difference that u increased the diameter by(lets say u increased the diameter by 35%) then u increase the injector size by the same %. i forget what stock injectors are sized at but lets say 275cc, so u take 275 x 1.35 = 371.25 then u go out and buy some 370cc injectors and u will be adding 35% more fuel and u will be sliding 35% more air past the MAF so the A/F ratio stays the same. u prolly didnt understand that but there are a few people on these boards that are using that method. all these different ways of adding fuel i just mentioned should be accompanied by a larger fuel pump cause stock fuel pump will not beable to support that much fuel. if u have anyquestions please ask i kno i prolly forgot sumthing
safc II, why? price mainly. and i kno that it will work. emanage is also a very good unit. i havent really researched the e-manage that thoroughly but from reading forums i hear it has many points that u can adjust and monitor which is nice. i just dont want to spend a lot more money on a product that does pretty much the same thing.
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:: orion ::
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