Hi guys,
Daniel from Bulgaria here.
Recently bought M35H 2012 car is fantastic, did run just fine. So I'm away for couple months and told my brother to start it just in case the battery runs flat. Car did not start and only goes to ON position, airbag and immobilizer dashboard lights illuminates and stays on constantly. And also prior to unlock it you can see the immobilizer light flashing rapidly.
Any suggestion what could it be or something wrong done by my brother as he started it once before and was fine and now the second time it does that.
I was thinking to remove negative on 12v battery and the service plug on Li-Ion bat for about 40mins to reset what do you think?
Thanks.
Immobilizer problem?
Re: Immobilizer problem?
I'd do the 12 volt one, it seems to be worth a try. The Li-Ion one is more drivetrain related, so I wouldn't touch it.
Is his foot on the brake as he tries to start it? And also try placing the key fob right against the start button while starting it. I think if the key fob battery is dead, the ignition would not even move from LOCK into ACC then ON, but electronics can be strange.
I have also seen a post where someone said the key + spare wouldn't work because the car completely erased both keys and they had to be reprogrammed again to be recognized.
Is his foot on the brake as he tries to start it? And also try placing the key fob right against the start button while starting it. I think if the key fob battery is dead, the ignition would not even move from LOCK into ACC then ON, but electronics can be strange.
I have also seen a post where someone said the key + spare wouldn't work because the car completely erased both keys and they had to be reprogrammed again to be recognized.
Re: Immobilizer problem?
Hi,
We've tried with the key touching the button and he applied brake also. The fob battery is fine as it is unlocking the vehicle and he said by approaching the car the security dashboard light starts flashing rapidly and after pushing the start it stays solid.
Also tried removing the fob battery for couple minutes... no effect.
Otherwise good point I will have only the 12v battery disconnected.
I have lost my code number for the fob so it will be some extra cash , hopefully its not erased and this is strange the car erasing the keys, is it some build in feature of the immobilizer system or some random stuff?
We've tried with the key touching the button and he applied brake also. The fob battery is fine as it is unlocking the vehicle and he said by approaching the car the security dashboard light starts flashing rapidly and after pushing the start it stays solid.
Also tried removing the fob battery for couple minutes... no effect.
Otherwise good point I will have only the 12v battery disconnected.
I have lost my code number for the fob so it will be some extra cash , hopefully its not erased and this is strange the car erasing the keys, is it some build in feature of the immobilizer system or some random stuff?
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cliffyk
- Posts: 99
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Re: Immobilizer problem?
Check the battery voltage while attempting to start the car--it should stay above 12.0 V; preferably better than 12.5 V. IF less than 12.0 the battery is not fully charged, or it has a shorted/weak cell.
How long did your brother let it run the last time it started? At idle it would take 10 to 15 minutes to top off the battery. Periodic starting without driving is not something I'd do to a stored car, especially just starting and idling--the engine will not get hot enough to burn off the nasty combustion by-products. My '98 SL 500 sits for months in the summer when I ride my motorcycle mostly. I just keep it on a good battery maintainer (a Schumacher SEM-1562A) in my case--but NOT some cheap "trickle" charger like those sold by HF.
How long did your brother let it run the last time it started? At idle it would take 10 to 15 minutes to top off the battery. Periodic starting without driving is not something I'd do to a stored car, especially just starting and idling--the engine will not get hot enough to burn off the nasty combustion by-products. My '98 SL 500 sits for months in the summer when I ride my motorcycle mostly. I just keep it on a good battery maintainer (a Schumacher SEM-1562A) in my case--but NOT some cheap "trickle" charger like those sold by HF.
Re: Immobilizer problem?
Guys, resolved! cliffyk was right about battery being low. Jump started it and good to go. But it is confusing that it shows immobilizer dash light and not battery light.
I'm about to change my 12V battery and infiniti says its special battery for the hybrid system, should I get infiniti 300$ battery or ordinary one any advise?
I'm about to change my 12V battery and infiniti says its special battery for the hybrid system, should I get infiniti 300$ battery or ordinary one any advise?
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satown210
- Posts: 212
- Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 2:10 am
- Car: 2012 Infiniti M37
2005 Nissan Xterra Off Road
Re: Immobilizer problem?
Battery light references the charging system. Not there to let you know the battery is dead. A dead battery is obvious.
Re: Immobilizer problem?
Glad you got the problem solved.
For the 12 Volt battery, I don't see why it has to be special from Infiniti. Yes it is different from the one the non-hybrids use, but to me any battery with the correct terminals that meets the requisite 582 CCA (cold cranking amps) will suffice. In fact I have a bad experience with an undersized/inadequate battery from Infiniti.
If the Infiniti one costs $300, how much is the "ordinary one" going for in your part of Bulgaria? That difference might make all the difference in the decision.
Good point to note on stored cars. Idle long enough and rev the engine or even better, drive it around the block.
For the 12 Volt battery, I don't see why it has to be special from Infiniti. Yes it is different from the one the non-hybrids use, but to me any battery with the correct terminals that meets the requisite 582 CCA (cold cranking amps) will suffice. In fact I have a bad experience with an undersized/inadequate battery from Infiniti.
If the Infiniti one costs $300, how much is the "ordinary one" going for in your part of Bulgaria? That difference might make all the difference in the decision.
Good point to note on stored cars. Idle long enough and rev the engine or even better, drive it around the block.
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satown210
- Posts: 212
- Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 2:10 am
- Car: 2012 Infiniti M37
2005 Nissan Xterra Off Road
Re: Immobilizer problem?
Couple of things:
M35H 12v battery is different and located in a different spot than the 37/56.
The 12v battery in the hybrids is in the trunk next to the hybrid battery.
It is externally vented.
It is a AGM battery as the m35H does not have an alternator and receives it charge via inverters built into the hybrid system.
I'd imagine it is AGM also to prevent splashes of battery acid. It is mounted on sheet metal, next to the sheet metal case of the Hybrid battery. A leaking battery back there is going to do a lot of damage.
So a normal battery would work for a bit but is NOT IDEAL and could damage the Hybrid system. If you get one that does not connect to the venting, corrosive fumes will start damaging components in the trunk. If you get a non AGM the high charge rates on the normal wet acid battery will accelerate it's failure and potential for damage.
Yet another place where it does not pay to to cheap out. See if there is aftermarket batteries that match ALL the specs of the OEM. Not just voltage, posts and physical size.
This is common among hybrids to have a AGM 12v battery.
M35H 12v battery is different and located in a different spot than the 37/56.
The 12v battery in the hybrids is in the trunk next to the hybrid battery.
It is externally vented.
It is a AGM battery as the m35H does not have an alternator and receives it charge via inverters built into the hybrid system.
I'd imagine it is AGM also to prevent splashes of battery acid. It is mounted on sheet metal, next to the sheet metal case of the Hybrid battery. A leaking battery back there is going to do a lot of damage.
So a normal battery would work for a bit but is NOT IDEAL and could damage the Hybrid system. If you get one that does not connect to the venting, corrosive fumes will start damaging components in the trunk. If you get a non AGM the high charge rates on the normal wet acid battery will accelerate it's failure and potential for damage.
Yet another place where it does not pay to to cheap out. See if there is aftermarket batteries that match ALL the specs of the OEM. Not just voltage, posts and physical size.
This is common among hybrids to have a AGM 12v battery.
Re: Immobilizer problem?
Well, a good normal battery will cost like 120$. I have found batteries for hybrid systems but they cost the same as quoted in infiniti + postage so I will go to infiniti to do it. Taking in account the last post definitely I won't go cheap on that. Thanks good info on that.
About storing the car, I think I'll just disconnect the battery. As it is only for 2 months or so.
About storing the car, I think I'll just disconnect the battery. As it is only for 2 months or so.
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satown210
- Posts: 212
- Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 2:10 am
- Car: 2012 Infiniti M37
2005 Nissan Xterra Off Road
Re: Immobilizer problem?
The best option is a battery charger/maintainer for AGM batteries.
I use this at work and it is one of the best and has settings for many different types of batteries.
https://no.co/g1100
I would not leave a battery disconnected for months. I've seen weird things happen when the computers loose power for that long. BCM looses it memory of keys programmed, fuel trims reset, power windows need to be relearned, etc.
I use this at work and it is one of the best and has settings for many different types of batteries.
https://no.co/g1100
I would not leave a battery disconnected for months. I've seen weird things happen when the computers loose power for that long. BCM looses it memory of keys programmed, fuel trims reset, power windows need to be relearned, etc.
Re: Immobilizer problem?
"Any battery..." wasn't the best way to describe my intent in my last posting. Non-Infiniti brand might be a better descriptor...but of course it has to match all the other aspects mentioned above for the reasons detailed therein. Thanks for the info.
I agree going for the Infiniti one might be better in this case.
Sometimes you get lucky and find cheap replacements easily, sometimes it's just easier to go with OEM and avoid the guesswork.
I agree going for the Infiniti one might be better in this case.
Sometimes you get lucky and find cheap replacements easily, sometimes it's just easier to go with OEM and avoid the guesswork.
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satown210
- Posts: 212
- Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 2:10 am
- Car: 2012 Infiniti M37
2005 Nissan Xterra Off Road
Re: Immobilizer problem?
Also I forgot to mention is that Nissans sometimes need a idle relearn and throttle position relearn after it looses it's memory. This can be an absolute pain to do yourself and can be a pain even with the NIssan dealer computer.
Re: Immobilizer problem?
Good tip make sense , I'll try and get one of these chargers/maintainers looks like good stuff. I'll be better once I get the new battery as this one doesn't keep charge, today my brother tried to start it and it is down again. I've decided to keep it disconnected for 2 weeks until I get back home because it is going to drain the Li-Ion battery , as far as I know Li-Ion battery is charging the 12V, at least that's in the manual. Hopefully It's not going to loose that information, right now I have no choice.