Im stuck, I can not figure this out..

[Acecool]

Ok, I tested the coil packs, hopefully correct...

OHM on pin 1 and 2 = 1.0 on all of themThe springs are not in that great of condition.I get no voltage going through the piece on the end of the spring, or it is hard to get voltage going through it.inside of coil right under or actually above the spring is green!

That might be the problem there..

I AM getting voltage to all coil packs in the middle wire (constant 12v)

----------

Next problem with lights staying on... the white/purple wire has a constant 3 to 4v in the actual rb20det harness, I do NOT know where it is coming from...If I attach the 12v when on/start wire to this white/purple wire and plug the battery in, then it works as intended the first time around besides the ecu light being on..

Now, if I take the 12v when on/start wire off the white/purple wire, the white/purple wire now has a constant 12v voltage (I believe, ill go test again in a minute) which leads me to believe a relay might not be working properly???

Also, when that 12v when on/start wire is activated and then the key removed, the lights stay on, and any time I disconnect the 12v when on/start wire to the white/purple wire, the green relays click, or deactivate, even though there is no voltage going to it...

I am becoming extremely frustrated!!!

So, so far I think my coils may be bad, ill try cleaning them later - and the lights staying on issue I have no clue how that white/purple wire is getting power....

Any suggestions?Anyone live near Charleston SC that I can pay to come out?

Josh

OK, 2 coils look like crap on the inside..

for the other 4, 3 of them are bronze colored on the inside and looking good, the 4th is all shiny silver on the inside... and does not have that weird piece on the end of the spring, it is just a spring...

But, on the ohm meter they all come back with 1.0 - or with the sound ohm meter it comes back 0.001 or something...

Josh

[S13 240SX]

wrap electric tape around the button of your coils around the rubber boot all the way to the top but make room so you can plug the connector back in.

i think the coils should be at an OHM of 8 or 0.8

[Acecool]

I got a cached image of the coil testing thing from rb20det.org or .com from the way back machine..

0.6 to 0.9 is allowed... but even the coil packs that look good give 1.0

I think I am testing them correctly...

On 200 == 1.02k = 0.001above that = 0.0on the sound one... 001

EDIT retested them

ok, 4 of them go straight for 0.92 of them rest on 1.0 and flicker between 1.0 and 0.9

with 4 good coils the engine should start??

Josh

[jrd450r]

I posted in your other thread, but Im guessing you never tried what I said. To test them the best way is to pull out your plugs and put them into each coil pack, have your key in the on position, remove your CAS and rotate it. You will be able to see sparks being produced on your plugs if all is good. Do this before testing all kinds of random variables. You may not even have a problem with spark. Also do this with your injectors, the procedure is pretty much the same but you need to ground some pins on the ECU, do a search on some of the forums and you should be able to find a write up how to do both of these procedures, its easy to do and doesnt take that much time and give you a sure answer of what the problem is. This is how I diagnosed my non starting motor.

[craz4240]

Well first of all man i think your white/purple wire isn't hooked up right,that wire I believe is supposed to have constant 12V,that goes to your coil relay,the ecu switches ground to your relays via the orange wire.On my car I had to use a schematic to figure this out cause my coil relay for some reason had 2 wires pinned wrong which I had to switch around.

Check your FSM for the schematics...it takes awile to learn to read them but once you understand them you've got it made.

Basically check continuity for all the wires,check to see your relays are setup correctly ie:power and grounds in the right spot.

It kinda sounds like if I'm not being dislexic that your not getting enough current to your coils,which might mean the 12v wire on the coil relay isn't getting 12v or you have a bad ground.

[Acecool]

Yeah, I had a constant 12v to that white/purple wire before, then read on another guide it was supposed to have a 12v only when on/start...

If I put the constant 12v on it, the relays do not click!

Josh
Modified by Acecool at 1:30 PM 11/4/2007

[240z4u]

12v constant is normal for the coils, they apply ground to fire the coils

Maybe your CAS is bad? Mark the motor, remove the CAS and turn it. Listen for injectors firing.

Are injectors firing?????

Evan

Car should at least TRY to start on four coils.

[craz4240]

It is switched I am pretty sure, however make sure you don't have one end of the white/purple wire hooked to constant power and then a switched ignition power hooked to it elsewhere,this will power your ignition all the time causeing your lights and accessories to stay on all the time.

Why don't you post up how you wired your swap in...might help ppl diagnose it a bit for you.

[Acecool]

Ill make a writeup on how I did it, might take a few minutes :-)

I took the switched power source off the white/purple and put the constant 12v back on... but, I am not getting a spark (or maybe I got a tiny spark with one of the coils) so, ill make the writeup now :-)

Josh

[Acecool]

How I did the wiring!

I used Carl Hs and Skillzillas wiring writeups...

1) (This step was confusing, because later it said find a different wire...)white/purple from RB to White wire in the fusebox = constant power*******10) Using your voltmeter, find a wire from the S13 grey plug that shows 12V when the key is in the ON position and 0V when the key is off. Also, ensure it remains at 12V when the key is in the START position. Connect this wire to the white/purple from the RB harness. This will tell the ignition relay when to turn on.which is one of the brown wires from the gray oval plug, or the green wire from the brown plug...

2) black/red from rb to black/red on ka from the gray oval plug for ign power3) white/black from rb to red wire on gray oval plug for ecu memory - constant power4) black/pink from rb to black/pink on brown plug directly spliced into the ecu wire (spliced so the one that is running is still there) = fuel pump5) Extended the 02 sensor (one wire at a time so they are correct)6) Extended the Maf (one wire at a time so they are correct)

For the lower harness, I moved the oil pressure sensor to the ka lower harness.Plugged in the startPlugged in the alternatorPlugged in the 3 connectors to the fusebox

I DID NOT USE THE SECOND PART OF THE LOWER HARNESS..

The second part of the lower harness was for an automatic transmission..It included a crank angle sensor??? silver cylinder thingy, and tons of wires for the automatic shifter thing..

I manually jumpered the black/white and black/yellow wire UNDER the fusebox, which allows the car to crank with the key

ECU AREA WIRING:Ok, I used 3 wires in the interior near the ecu.First I put working relays into the green sockets.Then, on one white plug, I used the blue/black(?) wire for temp sensorOrange for ecu ground?and one more which I can not remember.. ill look in a moment.

FOR GROUNDS:The alternator ground is plugged into the alternator (not sure where it goes)The Igniter chip has 2 grounds, a small o which a screw goes into to hold the igniter box down and ground it.And the second one is a BIG O which goes in one of the 12 or 14mm bolts for the coil housings.Engine is grounded which the Negative battery terminal which is also bolted to the Chassis

WIRES NOT PLUGGED IN:Wired speedsensor is not in, I left the skyline one in for now.Reverse sensor is not plugged in.Neutral sensor is not plugged in.A plug on top of the engine is not plugged in, which has two wires, one is black the other is white.

[jdmser]

Ok, quit screwing around with the coils for now, they sound fine. Pull the cas and unplug the ignitor. Spin the cas and listen to the injectors to verify all of them are clicking. I like to use a stethoscope because I'll old and can't hear for ****. Do you have fuel pressure and is it confirmed? Then plug the ignitor back in and disable the injectors. Pull one of the coils and set it on the head with a spark plug in it. Spin the cas and you should see spark, you can do that on all of them just to be safe. Let us know what you find.

[Acecool]

I heard you can damage your cas if you spin it or mess with it incorrectly...

I tried cranking the engine with a sparkplug plugged into the coilpack upside down on the block and I thought I saw a spark, but I tried again and couldnt see anything..

Spark should be pretty bright so :-/

Injectors are good, and I smell fuel strongly when the fuse is plugged in (I took it out to check spark)

What is the best way to spin the cas without damaging it?

Josh

[craz4240]

How close to your alternator is your MAF wires??Or are they routed around the front of the motor?

I'm not overly familiar with the s13 swap process but it sounds to me like it's wired correctly.

That white purple wire does have to go to switched 12v power with key,the white/black wire on the eccs relay goes to switched 12v as well.You have 12v going to the center wire on your coils.....umm have you checked to see if your coils are firing with a coil tester?Or pulled the plugs with the motor running to see if it made any difference?

A fouled coil pack should not be an intermittent thing and if it is it won't be for long.Also they would break up more at higher heat then anything.I say you may have a wiring issue.Just not sure what.

[craz4240]

Also is the light on the ecu on when the car is running???Or does it go off?What about fuel pump does it prime and then go off or is it staying on constantly or not comming on at all?

[craz4240]

And if the white/purple wire is disconnected from the switched power wire and you are still getting 12v to the wire then you have constant power tied into your white/purple wire somewheres and when you hook it up to the switched power wire the reason your lights stay on is cause it powers the ignition all the time and keeps the car live.This is not good...I fought this for awile myself.

[Acecool]

I routed the maf wires around the rear of the motor.

""""That white purple wire does have to go to switched 12v power with key,the white/black wire on the eccs relay goes to switched 12v as well.You have 12v going to the center wire on your coils.....umm have you checked to see if your coils are firing with a coil tester?Or pulled the plugs with the motor running to see if it made any difference?""""

Ok, if i use constant power then the relays do not click, but the lights come on and go off correctly, including ECU so I have power going to white/purple when it should not be there it seems...

"""""Also is the light on the ecu on when the car is running???Or does it go off?What about fuel pump does it prime and then go off or is it staying on constantly or not comming on at all?"""""Car does not run.. What happens is if the switched 12v wire is connected, the ecu light is on all the time, the relays click at the right moment, when it primes the light goes off and comes back on..

If the constant power is on that wire then the relays do not click, but the lights come on and off when they should... even the ecu light turns off..

""""And if the white/purple wire is disconnected from the switched power wire and you are still getting 12v to the wire then you have constant power tied into your white/purple wire somewheres and when you hook it up to the switched power wire the reason your lights stay on is cause it powers the ignition all the time and keeps the car live.This is not good...I fought this for awile myself.""""

Exactly, but I get 3v, until the car is attempted to be turned over, then I get 12v...

Josh

[jdmser]

If your holding the cas with the shaft pointed toward you, you should turn it counter clockwise. The spark isn't that bright when turning by hand. I taped mine to a drill to get more realistic results. I sounds to me like you have constant 12v tied into your switched 12v circuit.