im going to upgrade my turbo on my rb20 but.....

[mmatl16]

to tell you the truth i dont really know what i should upgrade it with. i just need the basics im just trying to replace the stock turbo. so you know a turbo and the right manifold....stuff like that. i guys could tell me what i should put on there and give me some links and stuff like that i would REALLY appreciate it.

thanks guys.

p.s. please dont flame i know there is probabaly a thread somewhere but i thought id get some recent info

[Joe]

why would you need recent info? they havent made the rb20 since the early 90's lolnothing has changed.

what do you plan to do with the car? you need to make a horsepower goal and a decision on the car (autox, drag, road race, drift, etc) before you pick a turbo

[Nameless EJ6]

I suggest Aussie skyline forums.. talk to people who have been doing it for years. Plus, aussies are generally smart dudes.

[BoostFab]

search this forum, i have seen this topic here before.

quick note, you can use your stock manifold. either with an intergrated wastegated turbo or one with external wastegate--with use of an adapter.

[mmatl16]

when i meant recent info i meant people who recently uprgraded. im not looking for a big turbo just something reliable, like a step above stock.cmon i know someone can help me out

[BoostFab]

i would say an t3/t04e would be a good upgrade. if you want to go cheap, find an S15 T28 turbo--it's ball bearing.

[Nameless EJ6]

The S15 turbo's aren't cheap.

Go to precisionturbo.com and look at their specs on their turbos. Then find one you like and look for something w/similar specs. Or just buy one from them.. badass turbo's.

[Sil240]

hey would a RB25 turbo fit a 20 i think so but i just wanted to be sure

[gawdzilla]

I have a dual ball bearing turbo which is similar to the s15 turbo which came off of my GTR clip. Let me know if you're interested.

[Eikon]

Don't mean to hijack this thread.. but I have some questions about upgrading a RB20 turbo as well... I think this is related enough...

If you upgrade to say a t3/t04e turbo, what do you need to do to make that work? Do you need to get a new external wastegate? Do you need to run new oil feeder lines? Is there a good thread or sticky that someone can point me to. I am a ways of from getting to this point, but I need to learn more about... I need to start learning now. thanks

[Andrew85cm]

Unless you get like a 60-1 turbo you can usually keep with an internal wastegate and as long as it has a t3 flange you will be straight for a bolt on procedure. Although you may have some fitment issues with the larger turbo people usually put a spacer in there. I think an extra flange would be fine but you would have to talk to someone that has tried it. Personally I would not run a internal wastegate because of the problem of boost spikes. The turbo spins wicked fast as you know and heats up quickly sometimes it will run more boost than you had it previously set. To twart this you will need to get the actuator away from the heat which is why people use a external wastegate.

In order to be able to use implement a external you must either buy a new manifold that has a flange for a external wastegate or you must make an adapter box. Spoolinrb25 has some pictures of his adapter box that also gets the turbo out of the engine bay so that you don' t have clearance issues. He basically made a piece of steel with 2 flanges one to connect to the manifold and one to connect to the turbo with a piece of box tubing. Then he ran a piece of round pipe off of this adapter box to a tial wastegate flange. You will want to route your wastegate back down to the downpipe which could be a pain in the butt. If you don't the car doesnt sound very good in my opinion and also it will dirty up your engine bay quickly with exhaust dust crap. Not to mention you probably won't pass any sort of inspection. It is best to not run the pipe for the wastegate at a direct 90 degree angle out of the adapter box because that is bad for flow, instead direct it at an angle so the exhaust can easily flow through it.

I am planning on making a top mount adapter when I put the external wastegate on this summer. I figure I mine as well if I am already making an adapter box. It may be more difficult but I think the ducting of the downpipe might be easier. Plus the fact that it looks awesome. You will want to wrap your exhaust side with some heat shield in order to keep heat away from important parts that dont like heat like master cylinder etc. Plus it is more efficient that way. You will more than likely have to make a custom downpipe because stock won't want to fit what ever route you choose.

You will have to run new oil lines also but talk to Carl H about that he said doing his was a pain in the butt. With the engine in the car it will be an even greater pain. Also you will have to run coolent lines if you get a water cooled center which is probably advisable. A t3/to4e sounds like a good choice personally I am going to dish out the extra money for a gt30r for my set up. Anyway I hope I was a little help. I am currently in the research process until I can get some money together. I would also consider getting some cams to make that rb20 head flow better. I am hitting up cams, adjustable cam gears, z32 valve springs, head gasket and arp head studs. I think it will best utilize the power. Have fun learning. Do a search for adapter box to find those pictures of Spoolinrb25's adapter box set up for his 60-1. ~ANDREW~

[mmatl16]

hey would a RB25 turbo fit a 20 i think so but i just wanted to be sure

ive got an rb25 turbo in my garage and it wouldnt fit. it wouldnt even get near the block and it was hitting the steering column. also would have needed a new downpipe

[Imissmyturbo]

Just get a T3/T04E 50 trim compressor with a .63 ar stage III wheel. Get it internally gated. Trust me.

[BoostFab]

vote for the to4e....

here's what you can do. take hte exhaust housing on the rb20det turbo and put it on the rb25's turbo. both are t28 and the turbine wheel should be the same trim.

[Andrew85cm]

Yeah internally gated may be easier but the best route is to go external and spend the extra money.~ANDREW~

[Wulfgang]

vote for the to4e....

here's what you can do. take hte exhaust housing on the rb20det turbo and put it on the rb25's turbo. both are t28 and the turbine wheel should be the same trim.

If the RB25 has the same turbine trim as the RB20 and you put the RB20 turbine housing on it, then what have you achieved??? Just a slightly larger compressor with an already undersized RB20 A/R turbine housing?

[Eikon]

*** double post *** sorry!

[Eikon]

So this would be a good choice? Andrew... what do you think?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...=WDVW

$275 seems pretty affordable! I know SS autochrome doesn't have the best rep for their manifolds, but this turbo seems right on.

The what other costs... External wastegate.. I see a few different sizes.. Do they correspond with the turbo.. I see 35mm, 38mm, 40mm, 45mm, 48mm, 50mm... what size would I get with that t3/t04e turbo?

Where do you get the oil lines? What other things would you need?

To do this stuff... do you have to get a new manifold? Would top mount make life a lot easier? Thanks

[goofynick6]

Just get a T3/T04E 50 trim compressor with a .63 ar stage III wheel. Get it internally gated. Trust me.

Trust him

[Andrew85cm]

What are your power goals for this project because if you don't have that high of power goal then you will not have too big of a problem with internally gated. Personally I don't want another internally gated but that is your call. As far as size wastegate I am going for a 38 or a 40 which i believe use the same flanges as the 35mm. The bigger it is the more air it lets out faster so it wont go through your turbo. Don't get that turbo. Do yourself a favor and get a real Garret or precision. That turbo is going to be nothing but hastle. If you are scraping for cash then I would consider waiting a little while and piece all of what you need together instead of buying subpar parts.

No offense but it sounds like you really do not know what you are doing you have a lot more research to go. Oil lines you can get an fittings and braided lines from a lot of places including summit and jegs. If you get an aftermarket manifold it will more than likely come with a flange for an external wastegate. If you are going internal you can keep stock manifold. If you do not want to buy a exhaust manifold then you can have someone weld up an adapter box like I previously said. You must have not read carefully I thought it was pretty clear what the options were.

For external:1) buy a aftermarket exhaust manifold that has a flange for a external wastegate2) Make adapter box

For internal:1) buy an internally gated turbo

Simple huh! EXternal will be much more money but I want the benefits from it but if you don't or have modest goals go with the internally gated one. Topmount doesn't really make it easier but if I am making a adapter box I am going to make it top mount. I just want it that way you can easily make an adapter box that will not make it topmount. You will need lots of fabrication for the adapter box and downpipe so figure that into your cost.~ANDREW~

[BoostFab]

interally actuated wastegate is fine for low boost--but higher boost will definately will benefits by the external wastegate--i have seen plenty of people pushing over 18psi of boost on internal wastegated turbo. no problem.

benefit to this is no need to spend $ for a new manifold. how to increase boost and eliminate any boost creeps? answer: get a boost controller. manual or electronic. i personally like the electronic, it's dual stage by just a press of a button.

i sell AN fittings for the RB's oil feed on the block, perfect for adapting stainless steel lines to your aftermarket turbo. just toss the banjo lines.

if you're cheap--find a garrett super-60....very affordable and can support 300hp+ good luck.

[Eikon]

No offense but it sounds like you really do not know what you are doing you have a lot more research to go. Oil lines you can get an fittings and braided lines from a lot of places including summit and jegs. If you get an aftermarket manifold it will more than likely come with a flange for an external wastegate. If you are going internal you can keep stock manifold. If you do not want to buy a exhaust manifold then you can have someone weld up an adapter box like I previously said. You must have not read carefully I thought it was pretty clear what the options were.~ANDREW~

Andrew, thanks for the knowledge. No offense taken... you are dead on... I really don't know what I am doing, and you are correct, I have a lot more research to go. I appreciate your advice and the time you take to explain things rather than flame me.

You ask what my power goals are... I think I would like to run about 300hp daily, and then be able to turn up the boost to like 375whp for those "special occasions".

Are there any "internally gated turbos" that will help me acheive that HP goal? From what I hear about the t3/t04e, it spools around 4000 RPM and hits really hard up to 7500 or so on an RB. That sounds great. The stock RB sucks... it spools at 3k and is done at about 5k.

Thanks again for helping. I am sure I am at least 6 months away from actually shelling out for a new turbo. But it will probably take me at least that long to learn what the heck I am doing.

[Sil240]

really i was looking on Skylinesdownunder and someone was saying its a direct replacement

I don't know about the steering column cause its a skylinebut this guy Krayton says that he has one running on his car as wellhttp://www.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=81596

What RB25 is that from? A series I or II maybe there is a difference

[Andrew85cm]

The Gt3071r would be a nice bolt up with an internal gate but they are expensive. The smaller your turbo the more boost you will have to run to get higher hp that is the way it goes but with a larger one you risk lag but can make the same power at a lower psi which is better for the head. I would do some stuff to that head to make it breath better. That is why it tapers off at the top end and because like you said your turbo is maxing out. Also this might have to do with a restrictive exhaust so make sure you have a 3" downpipe and 3" catback.

No a boost controller will not control the problems of boost creep caused by the actuator but it will help other reasons that make it creep because bleed off valves are just no good. It is the heat that makes the actuator get off and not open at the right time. A boost controler has nothing to do with this sorry.~ANDREW~

[Imissmyturbo]

http://store.yahoo.com/cheaptu....htmlLittle more money but good quality and they stand behind there turbos.

[240+civic=pimp]

i have a t3/t4 for sale its brand new it works great with rb's