Im beginning to hate this can , im starting to wish i went sr

[Krylonking]

im still having issues with the rb20det in my s13 , im ready to drive it over a cliff and call it quits , im getting code 34 for detonation sensor , can someone tell me where this sensor is located , also the car runs like **** when the timing is set at stock at 15 degrees , it bogs down it only runs right when its fully advanced and i know its not safe to run it like that, if the detonation sensor is bad , can that cause the computer to fully retard the timing

[ibzbro]

when the ecu reads knock it is going to retard the timming all the way back. now there are two knock sensors on the block, one for the first three and second for the other three cylinders. they are located under the intake manifold. your best bet to change them out is to get them form underneith. you will need to take the starter and alternator off so that you can get some levearge with a wrench or what ever you use. i belive that it is a 19 or 21. maybe the eninge is really seeing knock. did you ever think of that idea??? what kinda of gas are you runnng? are you stock? boost? injectors? anything? hope that his helps.

Erik

[Krylonking]

im running 94 octance , its not actually knocking , everything is still stock , it seems that whatever could go wrong is going wrong in this swap , i just wish i would of went sr now , findind parts and sensors for this motor is a pain , ive had to order so much new stuff and wait forver on that this swap has been taking me 6 months to finish

[Bluefire]

I don't want to make you feel any worse than you do already, but these are just the things you have to prepare for when you buy a 10 year old motor. Just don't stress out and take your time

-Bluefire

[Carl H]

and you think sr's are the miracle engine.please i think not.if you take your time to sort out the problems the end result is well worth it.as for the knock sensor bit, yes the car will run like complete *** if the ecu is throwing a knock sensor code.clear the code and jiggle the connector for the knock sensor, for some reason they can get loose and cause poor contact.if you have to replace it i would see if one from a 84 ca18et would fit, eyeballing them they look to be the same, could be wrong tho.else take the part to nissan and see if they can match it to a stateside part.

[JonPowell]

The big problem I see alot of(not singling out anyone) is that many of you having trouble do 2 major things wrong when swapping the motor.

#1 Have this swap be your first major mechanical venture and expect to hav eit go flawless.

#2 spending all you money on the motor and not having reserves to properly service the swap. Everyone is in such a hurry to install the motor that they dont save for the NECESSARY ITEMS TO MAKE THESE MOTORS RUN NICE, like water pumps & timing belts.

Then you guys cry that the RB's are a pain in the ***....they are no different than other motors in the respect that if you dont service them, they wont service you.

[S13Sil-line]

Like girlfriends!

[Nameless EJ6]

Like girlfriends!

Werd.

Yes, your knock sensors are under the intake manifold. Make sure there is continuity between them and the ecu pin/s. Then if there is, start the engine and check for voltage on them. If it's not in spec, then replace the bad one/s. Then you're done. Reset the ecu and you're back in action.

This stuff isn't hard to do. It's just a pain in the a$$. Part of doing a big swap. SR20's have knock sensors too. btw, you don't need to be detonating to get a knock.

[gawdzilla]

an SR swap in my mind is no easier than the RB. hard to expect a used engine to just be "tossed" in and running 100%.

try not to get frustrated. diagnosing the problems is part of the process... check the FSM and find out how to diagnose the knock sensors. get a multimeter there and check things out before you replace.

If you do need to replace, i've seen new oem knock sensors for about $130. i believe they're universal across nissan, so junk yard is prolly your best bet.

if you really want to shortcut it you can probably fool the ecu by wiring a resistor/shorting/leaving the circuit open.... but not recommended.

[FAST-DATSUN]

we have some good used parts and new parts here...

[IvoryJ30t]

The big problem I see alot of(not singling out anyone) is that many of you having trouble do 2 major things wrong when swapping the motor.

#1 Have this swap be your first major mechanical venture and expect to hav eit go flawless.

#2 spending all you money on the motor and not having reserves to properly service the swap. Everyone is in such a hurry to install the motor that they dont save for the NECESSARY ITEMS TO MAKE THESE MOTORS RUN NICE, like water pumps & timing belts.

Then you guys cry that the RB's are a pain in the ***....they are no different than other motors in the respect that if you dont service them, they wont service you.

THANK YOU!!! people dont realize that after all, it is a junkyard motor.

for my friends s14, the RB is getting a timing belt, tensioner, water pump, thermostat, new intake and exhaust mani gaskets, a new turbo, Z maf, ect...

you cant expect a 6-14 year old motor that has been sitting for quite some time to perform like it just rolled off the assembly line.

the SR is no different, and if you think it is, your just fooling yourself.

once its all sorted, it will be better than the SR...

[Vkoslak]

Ah the knock sensor. I had a simular problem in my 300zx TT.Im assuming you have a multimeter.There should be a location on the harness where you plug the sensor in that runs to the ecu.You'll need to test both the sensor and the ecu connection. The sensor should read right at 1M Ohm and the ecu at 0.5M Ohm.

Cheapest way to fix it is to bypass it using a 1M Ohm resistor and shoving it into the harness plug for the sensor.

Here is a writeup for how to do it on a 300zx.

http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/de....html

Should be the same except for the location of the thing. 300zx and rb20 use the same ecu, just different rom.

Make sure to reset your ecu after you either fix it or bypass it.

Hope that helps.

[Yellow4g63]

Ah the knock sensor. I had a simular problem in my 300zx TT.Im assuming you have a multimeter.There should be a location on the harness where you plug the sensor in that runs to the ecu.You'll need to test both the sensor and the ecu connection. The sensor should read right at 1M Ohm and the ecu at 0.5M Ohm.

Cheapest way to fix it is to bypass it using a 1M Ohm resistor and shoving it into the harness plug for the sensor.

Here is a writeup for how to do it on a 300zx.

http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/de....html

Should be the same except for the location of the thing. 300zx and rb20 use the same ecu, just different rom.

Make sure to reset your ecu after you either fix it or bypass it.

Hope that helps.

wow didn't know they used the same ecu. learn something new everyday.

[Vkoslak]

Well, the 96 odbii one won't do anyone any good. And I think some of the later 94s and 95s had a different ecu as well. CA emissions cars are only a little different having the extra sensor for emissions.

I should have taken a pic of my ecu when I had it out of the car with the big number on it. I think it said 23. One from twinturbo.net has a 26 on it.

They should all be type "N-7" whatever that means.

I know that the HKS ALC for auto transmission z32 is the same exact one sold outside the states for rb20det (not r31!) automatics.

It looks like rb26dett uses the same ecu (n-7 type) as well. While the rb25det can use either a n-7 or a n-28 depending on model year..

http://www.nippon-seiki.co.jp/....htmlh ... p/....html

If you look on page 1, most sr20det use n-9, while 1 model s14 uses a n-7, and s13s use n-11 in the turbo model.

I find it funny that the CA18DE and DET from an s13 use n-7.

It would be interesting to use a romulator and run several different engines with one ecu just to see if it can be done.

I may buy an extra z32 ecu from ebay just to try it if I can get an rb20det for the wife's 98 240sx.

Long post, is everyone confused enough now?

[IvoryJ30t]

also, the RB25DET's ecu is remarkably similar in terms of pinouts to the VG30DE ECU.

[RBpoweredSileighty]

good info here guys, ill be sure to use it after i order my rb20det (before it goes in the bay)