Just looked it up onlineQ451990 wrote:I would say this is a fairly common problem... I had the one on "Q1" replaced under the 100K warranty (yeah I'm a jerk) for this issue. It's replacement failed about 50-60K later. The one on "Q2" will stay locked down for a few weeks at a time...
Probably won't spend the $$ to replace it.
I took a spare switch apart once and the actual potentiometer inside is a "niles" brand. You might be able to source it at someplace like http://www.mouser.com and solder it to the PCB in the switch assembly. I'm assuming the switch is expensive from Joe, but I'm not sure...
That switch is really deep... you'll have to remove the bezel around the instrument cluster to get it out.
Good luck!
Heath
Add me to the list. I was wondering why nothing happened when I pushed the switch in a couple of weeks ago. I decided that depressing the switch might have been a step in a self diagnosis buried deep in the FSM. While holding it down I waited for lights to flash or the horn to honk but nothing ever happenned.lino wrote:I thought I was the only person with this problem.
It is a spring/catch issue. Nissan won't sell just the casing though.(At least no one I've spoken with would)DrewQ45 wrote:This doesn't sound like the actual rheostat so much as it does the mechanism surround it. Sound like a spring/catch issue.
I had an issue with my rear defog switch. It was leaning in the socket. When I last replaced my clock, I pulled it out and found that one of the plastic locking tabs on the side was weak. I applied a little heat to it with a match while bending the tab out. It snapped in nice after that and never budged again.
...Drew...