Ignition Coil for I-30

[tango I30]

Hi All,

Just some help on general maintance. Just had my 3 rd Igin coil replacedon my 99 I-30. This time around mach said should just go ahead and replace the remaining ones since they will eventually go.Does that make sense, fix before broke? I have been going to this shop for over 4 yrs and the best one in the neighborhood for Infin - mercedes-bmw's jags you name it.

Also now I have 78,800 miles, how often should the plugs be replaced, thinking now that it is older 60,000 which manual states is too long to go.

What other maintance can I do (myself checking etc ) for my older car to keep her purring, still has a lot of integrity to her.

Thanks!!Tango

[MTZI30]

Ya if you can afford it just replace all of the coils. Im not sure on your car, but my car is 115k miles for the big tune up. Main thing is make sure all your fliuds are good, belts arent all old and cracked, and basically follow what the manual for your car says. If you dont have a manual im sure you can hop on google and search for 99 i30 maintainence. Everything else, if it aint broke dont fix it. I work at niello infiniti and something i notice about these i30s, even the older, neglited ones still pur. You thought about detailing your car? Even though its not maintainence theres nothing like your car being super clean.

[Darktide]

quite true. the 3.0L is one heck of a sturdy engine. I've got 125k on an '00 Max and I've only got 3 coils replaced. I'm not sure about the 99's but I know that on the 2000's we have laser platinum's from NGK. I always put in what was stock since that was what it was built for, they aren't cheap but they are suited to last about 100k (mine were hurting because I got the car at 120k and did them then). Like I said, not sure what the 99's had so definitely check the maintenance chart.

As for other maintenance, I agree. Always keep your fluid's fresh. Always stay on top of you oil changes, change your transmission fluid (be it manual or automatic), check your coolant for degradation, if you haven't kept up on having your transmission or coolant system flushed... don't do it. You'll only cause a ton of problems. Just replace the fluids and you'll be ok. I always keep a good eye on my fuel economy. It's a great idea because then you can notice any changes (i'm not talking 1-3 mpg changes, those are normal depending on what type of driving you've been doing, once it goes lower than 4 I normally start doing some checks). Other than that there really isn't anything you'll have to do to keep the 3.0L in good shape.

As for your coils, screw that. Let'm go one at a time. You never know how long they will last. Why toss money at something that could go for another 20k. And you should just do those yourself. It's a piece of cake. I got my replacement from Autozone, cost about $75 and had the new one in in under 5 minutes. Saved plenty of money rather than going to a mechanic.

Jay

[tango I30]

Hey thanks for all the information. Since you work at Infin shop, please tell me more. As far as detailing, yes wash-wash-wheels - anything else to keep clean. While I am at it here are a few more that come to mind.

Whats the best way to lube the radio antenna and sunroof mechanism.

Oh and how about the headlights, they are very dull is there any product to clean off the oxydation film that has built up.

I have had the coolant flushed a few years ago, and next time, do I just tell the Mech no flush just drain and replace? Belts also have been replaced on the 60.000 check up.

I will check my file to see when the last time I had the transmission fluid replaced, I know I have done that once and I have put on 55,000 miles since I have owned now for going on 7 years. How often should that fluid be replaced?

Thanks for all the advise - much appriciated!! Jenifer

[Darktide]

I'd say you're due for another transmission fluid replacement.

Coolant, it's a tough call, I think they recommend every 2 years but I'd check your manual.

As for lube, I believe it's recommended to use white lithium grease on the sunroof. And I'd put some on a rag and with the antenna extended, slide the rag down the mast and then bring it up and down a few times to work it in.

Headlights, well, some people have had good luck with Meguirs Plasticx. But I never really have. One guy went to the length to wet sand the lights in stages. His lights came out beautifully, I would go that route should I ever need to buff my lights. I'll see if I can find the link to the guys write up.

Seems like you do a terrific job (more thorough than most people to say the least) of keeping your car in tip-top shape. I'd say that car will give you plenty of good service back for it.

zerothread/313767

[tango I30]

Thanks again for the info. If you locate the thread I would like to read it. Not much into sanding my lights, too bad there is not a product out there like eye makeup remover - just wipe it on and wipe it off! Will look for the white grease and get my transmission fluid changed and hope I can stay out of the shop for awhile.

Keep drivingJenifer

[Darktide]

The link is on the bottom of my last thread.

It's called White Lithium Grease. Good luck staying out of the shop.

Jay

[dankyoudotcom]

What is the OEM coil pack for the 99 i30? Are there are other ones that you might recommend?

Thanks DarkTide.

[tango I30]

Could not say as I take my car to the shop for the replacements on these coils. As I can see it would have to buy one of the little machines thatreads the code from the car computor to advise which coil is bad, and I have not done that.

Would'nt the parts store's know what to offer you and you just would need to know which coil nbr. Is OEM the type of part or brand??

Jenifer

[dankyoudotcom]

I think OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. I just looked it up on google. I've seen other people use the term, so I just copied them.

Oh, so each coil pack has an assigned number?

[Darktide]

No, the coil pack doesn't have a number. The Cylinders are labeled as numbers and the coil just corresponds, but normally the Code reader will not tell you which pack or cylinder is misfiring. This takes very little proficiency (skill) with tools to do but if you are scared of cars or tools I wouldn't recommend it.

The easiest way to tell which coil has gone bad is to unplug them one at a time. As you unplug each coil the car should sound/run worse. It's a pretty significant change. If you DON'T hear or feel a change... then you've found your bad coil.

OEM does indeed stand for Original Equipment Manufacturer. In most cases you can only get those parts from dealerships. In some rare cases other companies are responsible (like our spark plugs, OEM = NGK brand).

Don't waste your time with OEM or Used coil packs. Go to Autozone... best price that I've seen. Just realize that the coils on the front of the engine are different than those on the rear of the engine, so it is pretty crucial to find out which one is bad. Make sure that the coil you use as a replacement has a grey dot sticker on it. Those are normally the updated design and last longer.

As for the design difference between the front and rear coil packs. The front coil packs have a 90degree bend in them for the connector where the rear coil packs are straight also so it is easier to connect them.

Replacing the coil packs is a piece of cake for someone who has the tools and the courage. It's a very simple procedure but I'm not going to do a write-up unless you can't seem to find any of the others in the forum.

Good luck, and you're welcome

[dankyoudotcom]

Doesn't the engine get hot when it's on? What are some safety precautions that I should take? I'm building my courage.

Thanks

[dankyoudotcom]

So I went to autozone, and I rented the computer thing you hook up to the car and it said P1320 and P0304...i think...P304 was Cylinder 6 Misfiring due to the coil pack, said the worker. He told me to switch #6 and the one next to it to see if the coil pack was the problem.

So now I left my engine on to see if Coil Pack #6 is the problem. I'm not sure what to do next.

[Darktide]

ok, yes it can get a bit hot but it's not that bad. Just avoid the exhaust manifold and the radiator. The metal parts will be hot but as long as you watch where you are leaning you won't have any problems. The evens are in the front of the engine. If the computer says that it's misfiring then it's misfiring. There is the cover over the front coil plugs. There are 4 bolts holding it on. Take them off and remove the cover (with the car off). If the car is running rough, unplug the right most coil pack. If it's still running rough then plug it back in. Then remove the middle coil pack and see if it gets worse... it should. If it does, then plug the middle one back in and order a new coil pack from Autozone. The front coil packs are the easiest ones to change. You'll need a 10mm socket to unbolt the coil pack and then it just pulls off the spark plug. Also, it's easier to unplug the coil pack while it's still bolted down. If you need any more help just ask.

[dankyoudotcom]

Okay, so I changed coil pack #6. It was quite fun. I also changed 5 of the spark plugs, but I couldn't get to the upper right plug because of all this stuff right above the coil pack. What the heck is that inconveniently doing there?? haha.

So i think the misfiring should be okay for now. I plugged the computer scanner thing to check and it said 0 Codes. However, when I scrolled down it said all these things like mil off, monitors, 4 inc, catlyst, evap, o2 sensor, EGR, 4 ready? misfire, fuel, comp, o2 htr. Umm, please tell me that I don't have to fix all these...

Thank you once again DarkTide!!!

[Trickplay461]

Just so you know....OEM stands for "Original Equipment Manufacturer". In short this means that the product was originally MADE by a company and then SOLD as another companies own product. Say Nissan having their coils made by a manufacturer and then labeling them "Nissan" and selling them as their own. Anyways, I've learned that this is the way to go for replacement parts. Learned the hard way by trying to save money on aftermarket brake rotors. Aftermarket parts are cheaper but that doesnt mean they hold up as well. OEM parts are designed for the car its going into so it must live up to the original parts quality OR BE BETTER!....so save some cash by buying online or wherever as long as the part is listed as OEM. This way your getting an item that will work the way its supposed to.

P.S.My cheap aftermarket rotors were loud, warped easily and were JUNK!

Hope this helps.

[Darktide]

dankyou.com ... In the scanner it has options to basically watch things happen in real time (for lack of a better way to say it). As far as I know those options are just so you can monitor those things while driving. Unless you have new codes, or pending codes, I wouldn't worry about any of that. That last plug though, I believe I snipped some of the zip ties holding stuff on and had to push some stuff away. It wasn't easy but believe me, we have one of the easiest motors I've ever seen for spark plugs. Most other people have to actually go between the firewall and the motor and get at the plugs from underneath the car... or worse yet, unbolt the motor mounts and tip the engine. We have it easy. And congratulations, you're well on your way to saving more money. There is a lot of car maintenance that is this simple but people are too afraid. As long as you take your time, do your research, and check boards like this for tips... you'll do ok. Normally people will tell you whether or not you should attempt something on your own (depending on your mechanical skill).

Trickplay.....So you had a bad experience with aftermarket parts.... don't go labeling all aftermarket parts for it. My guess is that you got the cheap crap for rotors. Most people here support Brembo for rotors and I have always liked Bendix. They hurt the wallet but hell, I'd rather not cheap out on the main thing stopping my car. You can take in air filters, which aftermarkets are made with better designs and theories (K&N, AEM Dry Flow, etc..) than OEM. Shocks, struts, springs, certainly are made better aftermarket.

What I'm trying to prove is that you can't go for the cheap aftermarket crap and expect it to work as well as OEM. You need to do your research and make sure you get quality replacement parts and you'll be all set. There are plenty of great aftermarket companies out there that supply quality parts. Now that I'm done ranting, lets drag this thread back on topic.

[dankyoudotcom]

I believe you when you say we have the easiest motors around. It took a little time, but it was waaaay easier than I imagined. I had built up this fear in my head that I was going to mess things up even more. I guess that's what life is, can't sit around fearing and questioning things all the time. Hey I guess my car gave me some of its wisdom.

Thanks for your help Darktide or Jay. I really really appreciate it.