Thank EniGmA1987. Now I know what a doghouse is and it's not the place that I have to be in when I misbehaved
As I stated in my previous update, when I inserted the keyfob in the slot and opened the driver door, I can get the ding sound to tell me that the keyfob is inside the car and I could not lock the car so it looks like there is power to the doghouse. However, I will verify it with a multimeter to be 100% sure. Also, with the keyfob in the slot, I sometime got the LOCK indicator light on the push start button lit up for a fraction of a second but not long enough for me to push the button to turn on ACC or ON mode. Once in a blue moon, if I caught it just right, I can turn on ACC but it immediately turned off back to LOCK and then dark button again. I traced it back to the ACC relay's coil supply voltage being cut-off. That was why I asked if I can feed the relay's coil with 12v from the battery or somewhere else to see if I can generate a different response without damaging other components. One time, I took out the push start button and shorted terminal 1 to 4 inside the connector to simulate the push action and I accidentally shorted one other pin to ground and blew out fuse #22 so I know there is power to the push button. However, I will verify that there is voltage to the push button to be sure.
Before all of these problems, the only issue I had with the car is the dashboard would intermittently turn ON/OFF by itself for a brief 3-5 seconds while I was driving but I had no problems with starting the car or listening to the AV in ACC mode, so I thought there was a lose connection some where. I practically took the whole front in the cabin apart and checked every connectors in the engine bay as well for lose wires but found nothing. Could that be an indicator that the iKey control module was on its way out? During that time, I made several 1200+ trips and driving the car for months around town without any problems with lock/unlock and starting/stopping the car no matter what the weather was, from subzero to 100 degrees. Just one day out of the blue everything quit. Since then I'd replaced the car battery twice, the keyfob batteries multiple times, push start button, PDU and all the fuses inside the cabin and in the IPDM. The shops could read any error codes when I drove the it to the shop and they told me since the check engine light is not on, there wouldn't be any errors. I also performed the IPDM Auto Active Test and everything passed which tells me the BCM and the IPDM are functioning correctly. Now the car is completely dead at the push button so I couldn't do any testing. The only logical choice left is the iKey Control module which the dealer will want big money to just install one to verify the current one is bad which I'm afraid of wasting the money if that doesn't fix my car.
Thanks in advanced for any ideas, information or guidance you and others in the forum can provide