Before you changed your trailing arm bushing to fix the death sway, did you experience any vibrations? I have a vibration coming from the rear diff and it is either the arms or my diff assembly. I only get the vibration at full throttle and only off the line,and the more weight the worse it is. It only lasts for about two seconds. I have no death sway at all.
Thanks
If you have replaced trailing arms.......
Re: If you have replaced trailing arms.......
From your decription
Drain the rear diff completely, let it sit and drain, the sitting will expel loose chips of metal that you will examine and describe to us.
The crown and pinion will have wear, which is normal but how much might be demonstrated by the content in the bowl.
Also measure the quantity of hypoid oil removed. This is important to see if you have full lubrication.
With the diff empty and before any diss-assembly drive the car as you did prior and see if the vibration is worse, better or the same. But while it is raised try moving the rubber mounted links by twisting them and watch for movement.
If you think the rear end is the cause open the hatch (inspection port) and do a measured and a good loos see. Does the carrier work, does the drive lock, do both wheels turn in the same direction when turning the drives haft and when turning one rear wheel
Drain the rear diff completely, let it sit and drain, the sitting will expel loose chips of metal that you will examine and describe to us.
The crown and pinion will have wear, which is normal but how much might be demonstrated by the content in the bowl.
Also measure the quantity of hypoid oil removed. This is important to see if you have full lubrication.
With the diff empty and before any diss-assembly drive the car as you did prior and see if the vibration is worse, better or the same. But while it is raised try moving the rubber mounted links by twisting them and watch for movement.
If you think the rear end is the cause open the hatch (inspection port) and do a measured and a good loos see. Does the carrier work, does the drive lock, do both wheels turn in the same direction when turning the drives haft and when turning one rear wheel
Re: If you have replaced trailing arms.......
Check the rear wheels for brake adjustment, it too tight will cause lock up, take wheel assemblies off, if too hard to pull drums they are too tight.
Check the carrier bearing by turning drive shaft, does it feel smooth or is there binding.
The initial vibration may simply be an adjustment of brakes at the rear, e brakes binding, bearings from wheels to main support, drive shaft binding, lack of oil, too old or grade of oil is beyond what temperatures you are working in.
With rear end up all load off in neutral can you turn drive shaft and turn both wheels in same direction easily? If not you have binding and binding on one side means a slip on the other.
You can diagnose these things and relate them to your dealer, they can then guess what is wrong and because it is a system many components work together.
I have not discussed the transmission and 2 speed transfer box with this because of your initial statements.
Take your time and do the testing with care and expectations that there may be binding. Try 1st before condemning a part. Parts will add up real fast so be sure.
If you are not familiar with bearing failure reply first to how to test bearings out?
Check the carrier bearing by turning drive shaft, does it feel smooth or is there binding.
The initial vibration may simply be an adjustment of brakes at the rear, e brakes binding, bearings from wheels to main support, drive shaft binding, lack of oil, too old or grade of oil is beyond what temperatures you are working in.
With rear end up all load off in neutral can you turn drive shaft and turn both wheels in same direction easily? If not you have binding and binding on one side means a slip on the other.
You can diagnose these things and relate them to your dealer, they can then guess what is wrong and because it is a system many components work together.
I have not discussed the transmission and 2 speed transfer box with this because of your initial statements.
Take your time and do the testing with care and expectations that there may be binding. Try 1st before condemning a part. Parts will add up real fast so be sure.
If you are not familiar with bearing failure reply first to how to test bearings out?
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Buzzman
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2023 Kia Stinger Elite V6 AWD.
Re: If you have replaced trailing arms.......
I started seeing these symptoms earlier this spring, so I took it in to my Nissan Tech, whom I trust.prelude48 wrote:Before you changed your trailing arm bushing to fix the death sway, did you experience any vibrations? I have a vibration coming from the rear diff and it is either the arms or my diff assembly. I only get the vibration at full throttle and only off the line,and the more weight the worse it is. It only lasts for about two seconds. I have no death sway at all.
Thanks
Turned out to be a u-joint going bad. He had it out and showed it to me, so I knew he wasn't s*** me.
At the same time, I decided to replace my lower trailing arms. I felt the rear end was getting loose and jumpy, so I had it done.
BIG difference. Truck runs and handles like new. No more vibrations or loose back end. Much smoother, tighter and quieter.
Re: If you have replaced trailing arms.......
Appreciate the replies.
Hey ARK, thats the best reply i have ever gotten on any forum.
I have checked everything i possible can on my truck. u joints, transfer case support, exhaust drone, wheels alignment, wheels balance. I have had my truck in the air twice to watch for vibrations etc and its kinda hard because i need the load on the drive train. Last option was to mount a camera on the axle and drive around flooring it off the line and see what happens.
Seems to be the axle because it shows in the video of the image shaking at the speed it would shake. I did hear some noise at the pinion and it sounded rough. Im going to head outside shortly and put it in the air and check around a little more. Also the fluid is 6 months old.
So this is why i say its either diff or the two track bars on the top of the axles.
I can upload the video if anyone wants to see it.
ALSO- I work for Nissan and i have asked 3 techs what might be the cause and i heard, might be plugged cat converter, trailing arms and the last guy said it could be trailing arms but he has never changed any. No tech wants to d!ck around with your car or help you unless there getting paid.....or so it seems, thats why i m guessing the weak answers.
Hey ARK, thats the best reply i have ever gotten on any forum.
I have checked everything i possible can on my truck. u joints, transfer case support, exhaust drone, wheels alignment, wheels balance. I have had my truck in the air twice to watch for vibrations etc and its kinda hard because i need the load on the drive train. Last option was to mount a camera on the axle and drive around flooring it off the line and see what happens.
Seems to be the axle because it shows in the video of the image shaking at the speed it would shake. I did hear some noise at the pinion and it sounded rough. Im going to head outside shortly and put it in the air and check around a little more. Also the fluid is 6 months old.
So this is why i say its either diff or the two track bars on the top of the axles.
I can upload the video if anyone wants to see it.
ALSO- I work for Nissan and i have asked 3 techs what might be the cause and i heard, might be plugged cat converter, trailing arms and the last guy said it could be trailing arms but he has never changed any. No tech wants to d!ck around with your car or help you unless there getting paid.....or so it seems, thats why i m guessing the weak answers.
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Chuck Tribolet
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Re: If you have replaced trailing arms.......
If the drums are hard to pull, it can also be because the shoes have have worn a low spot so there's a small ridge thatARKQX33V6 wrote:Check the rear wheels for brake adjustment, it too tight will cause lock up, take wheel assemblies off, if too hard to pull drums they are too tight.
keeps the drurms from coming off. Been there, at about 190,000 miles.
Re: If you have replaced trailing arms.......
"Seems to be the axle because it shows in the video of the image shaking at the speed it would shake. I did hear some noise at the pinion and it sounded rough."
Clamp a vice grip to the links and with your camera see if that vice grip moves.
Noise at the pinion than you can hear may be a worn load bearing. Did you remove the diff cover and take a peek inside? That may stop all guessing.
Clamp a vice grip to the links and with your camera see if that vice grip moves.
Noise at the pinion than you can hear may be a worn load bearing. Did you remove the diff cover and take a peek inside? That may stop all guessing.
Re: If you have replaced trailing arms.......
Might have to try the vice grip idea.
I got the mechanic at work to look my truck, he took a look at everything underneath it and said bushings all look
good, nothing looks abnormal or worn. He also said he doesn't thing its the drive shaft or rear end because the diff makes no noise and everything feels fine when spun by hand.
When he drove it he said it was really weird and he hasn't noticed any other r50's doing that but he said he also doesn't pay attention either. The mechanic seems to think its not coming from the rear 100% either...but here is why i think it is.
I put wedges in the rear top stabilizer links and went for a drive and i felt the vibration a little worse...i dont think the wedges stayed in very good so im not totally sure.
Also i cant take the diff cover off.no cover to remove but did change the fluid, took a look inside with a flash light and looked at the crown gears and they look normal, good clean pattern on the face and no nicks or missing teeth, and the pinion gear also looks good.
As for now im no where closer to solving my issue. Thanks for the replies.
I got the mechanic at work to look my truck, he took a look at everything underneath it and said bushings all look
good, nothing looks abnormal or worn. He also said he doesn't thing its the drive shaft or rear end because the diff makes no noise and everything feels fine when spun by hand.
When he drove it he said it was really weird and he hasn't noticed any other r50's doing that but he said he also doesn't pay attention either. The mechanic seems to think its not coming from the rear 100% either...but here is why i think it is.
I put wedges in the rear top stabilizer links and went for a drive and i felt the vibration a little worse...i dont think the wedges stayed in very good so im not totally sure.
Also i cant take the diff cover off.no cover to remove but did change the fluid, took a look inside with a flash light and looked at the crown gears and they look normal, good clean pattern on the face and no nicks or missing teeth, and the pinion gear also looks good.
As for now im no where closer to solving my issue. Thanks for the replies.
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fleurys
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Re: If you have replaced trailing arms.......
How exactly did you check your ujoints... unless you removed your driveshaft, you will not feel enough slack just by moving it with your hand...
The symptoms you are listing are typical of a (or more) ujoint slowly going out. now your truck is 02 and I can tell you that you are in the sweet spot for that year (+9) that the original joints will start to fail. It happened to many of us with 01-02 and it's , up to a point, normal wear.
On my truck I could not feel any slack while the driveshaft was on the truck. Even with it in my hands, there was no slack, but the needle bearings had started to wear in a weird way that instead of rolling they were like skipping in steps..like if they were square a bit...
Now you only feel a slight vibration and it goes away. And the more you have weight or step on the accelerator, the more you feel it.... this is the ujoint fighting the torque you're sending there way. R50 platform truck rear diff (qx4, pathfinders) have a strong history of non-problems.. The h233b is stronger and more reliable than a dana 44 (not to mention bigger also)... The only annoyance with them is eventually you will start hearing a growl at fixed speed... that's the pinion bearing starting to give... but this only happens at over 200,000km and will stabilize (not getting worse)... so ... to go back to the story, I suggest you go underneath, mark the initial mating point between the driveshaft and pinion and trans, then undo the 8 bolts, then work out the ujoints manually and see for yourself...
A ujoint from neapco cost just over 20 bucks... you will need 2 for the back and if you decide to do the front also, then another 2... read my story here : http://npora.ipbhost.com/index.php?show ... t&p=481906
you will even have part numbers..
S.
The symptoms you are listing are typical of a (or more) ujoint slowly going out. now your truck is 02 and I can tell you that you are in the sweet spot for that year (+9) that the original joints will start to fail. It happened to many of us with 01-02 and it's , up to a point, normal wear.
On my truck I could not feel any slack while the driveshaft was on the truck. Even with it in my hands, there was no slack, but the needle bearings had started to wear in a weird way that instead of rolling they were like skipping in steps..like if they were square a bit...
Now you only feel a slight vibration and it goes away. And the more you have weight or step on the accelerator, the more you feel it.... this is the ujoint fighting the torque you're sending there way. R50 platform truck rear diff (qx4, pathfinders) have a strong history of non-problems.. The h233b is stronger and more reliable than a dana 44 (not to mention bigger also)... The only annoyance with them is eventually you will start hearing a growl at fixed speed... that's the pinion bearing starting to give... but this only happens at over 200,000km and will stabilize (not getting worse)... so ... to go back to the story, I suggest you go underneath, mark the initial mating point between the driveshaft and pinion and trans, then undo the 8 bolts, then work out the ujoints manually and see for yourself...
A ujoint from neapco cost just over 20 bucks... you will need 2 for the back and if you decide to do the front also, then another 2... read my story here : http://npora.ipbhost.com/index.php?show ... t&p=481906
you will even have part numbers..
S.
Re: If you have replaced trailing arms.......
Its NOT u joints. I took the drive shaft out and checked, smooth as silk, also took one u joint out and reinstalled it because i was going to replace it but no one had the right u joint. Every story and post on anything to do with u joints does not relate to my problem... this is a vibration up to 30km hr and then it stops and only on full throttle and the the more load the worse. Thats it. no clunk no vibration at any speeds above 50km/hr. Also the mechanic that that i work with at nissan took the drive shaft off and inspected the u joints and he also says there fine.