would you drop in a sr20 blacktop or a RB25det
budget being 5,000 give or take 500-1000
sr20det blacktop - great motorrb25det - great motor
cant decide...ill be getting the car in about 3 months but first need to decide, i know this is a rb section but still... if money wasnt really a issue id definatley go rb25det, but since i have a 5k-5.5k budget cap i just need help deciding
if you had a 95-98 240sx...
-
thephatone
- Posts: 180
- Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2003 6:22 pm
- Car: cars
1600 (including shipping) for front clip (venus-auto) install 500 (a buddy of mine) leaves me with about 3k, new intake manifold, fuel pump, fmic, piping, injector, afc2, new turbo/manifold, new gaskets, cams maybe? say i run 15 psi = at least 350rwhp but still stuck with a weak transmission, when you guys say weak is that like the actual transmission or clutch?
$1600 incl. shipping from Venus? For an RB25? Excuse me if I'm a bit skeptical. Even if you live next door and shipping is free, I thought their RB25 clips were at least $2500.... but hey if you get that kind of deal... go for it.
Personally, I am putting an RB20 into my '95, but really only because it was the cheapest route to go turbo and my KA has too many miles. If I had $5k, I would have done a KA-T and done it right. That's enough money to do everything right, and with a KA-T, you'd be looking at over 300 rwhp with loads and loads of torque. With $5K, you could buy a very good FMIC, one of the newest Garrett turbo's, N1 dual exhaust, etc., etc. I am constantly amazed by the numbers the KA-T people put down at less than 10 psi on stock engines. If your S14 comes with a decent low-mileage engine, then $5K will get you the most rwhp if you put it right back into that KA - no swap needed.
But yeah, if it's an RB or SR you want, I would get the RB25. Inline-6 with 500cc more displacement. Revs happier and smoother, puts down more power, is more rare, and costs a bit less.
From what I have learned, the only advantage the S14 SR has is that it is a drop-in replacement. I see no other reason for getting an S14 SR. It is more expensive, has less power and less torque, and is overall much less cool than an RB. (IMHO, of course).
Shane
Personally, I am putting an RB20 into my '95, but really only because it was the cheapest route to go turbo and my KA has too many miles. If I had $5k, I would have done a KA-T and done it right. That's enough money to do everything right, and with a KA-T, you'd be looking at over 300 rwhp with loads and loads of torque. With $5K, you could buy a very good FMIC, one of the newest Garrett turbo's, N1 dual exhaust, etc., etc. I am constantly amazed by the numbers the KA-T people put down at less than 10 psi on stock engines. If your S14 comes with a decent low-mileage engine, then $5K will get you the most rwhp if you put it right back into that KA - no swap needed.
But yeah, if it's an RB or SR you want, I would get the RB25. Inline-6 with 500cc more displacement. Revs happier and smoother, puts down more power, is more rare, and costs a bit less.
From what I have learned, the only advantage the S14 SR has is that it is a drop-in replacement. I see no other reason for getting an S14 SR. It is more expensive, has less power and less torque, and is overall much less cool than an RB. (IMHO, of course).
Shane
-
thephatone
- Posts: 180
- Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2003 6:22 pm
- Car: cars
the 1600 price tag is for the rb20, and the reason i will do a sway is because yeah i can go for a KA24DET but theres always a chance something might go wrong, throw a rod, fry a piston ring, etc...so if i were to lets say drop in a rb20 and something went wrong i will always have my stock KA24DE to throw in for the time being, well i guess SR isnt really worth the money because im not looking to go autocross or 50/50 weight distrubution, i just want a decent car that has enough power to make the local domestic guys shut their mouths...
that leaves me with the option of rb20 or rb25...price difference in swaps is about 1500-2000
that leaves me with the option of rb20 or rb25...price difference in swaps is about 1500-2000
Ah ok. I thought you were pricing an RB25. If you are talking RB20, then the SR becomes waaaay more expensive. $1600 incl. shipping is still a good price for an RB20.
And if you want to keep the domestics quiet, then my opinion is that you should go for the KA-T. You can buy a spare KA for less than $500, if that's all that is holding you back!
I think if you take the time to add up all of the expenses -- and I mean ALL of them -- you will find as I did that the RB20 is the cheapest way to go. Now if you do not want to have a spare engine lying around, then the KA-T starts to be a pretty good price with just an entry-level turbo job.
Shane
And if you want to keep the domestics quiet, then my opinion is that you should go for the KA-T. You can buy a spare KA for less than $500, if that's all that is holding you back!
I think if you take the time to add up all of the expenses -- and I mean ALL of them -- you will find as I did that the RB20 is the cheapest way to go. Now if you do not want to have a spare engine lying around, then the KA-T starts to be a pretty good price with just an entry-level turbo job.
Shane
-
thephatone
- Posts: 180
- Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2003 6:22 pm
- Car: cars
yea, the sound an RB makes is part of the reason i did it. I have an RB20 in my '96. It's nice. I can shut up quite a few domestic guys with it. Once you get into 3rd gear boosting, they don't stand a chance. I've only raced domestics from a rolling start in about 2nd gear. i beat up on a cobra the other day....not a new one...like a '95 i think.
-
rbsileighty
- Posts: 1694
- Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2003 8:10 am
- Car: 92 S13 Hatch w/ RB20 & 05 Audi S4 Avant 6MT
thephatone wrote:1600 (including shipping) for front clip (venus-auto) install 500 (a buddy of mine) leaves me with about 3k, new intake manifold, fuel pump, fmic, piping, injector, afc2, new turbo/manifold, new gaskets, cams maybe? say i run 15 psi = at least 350rwhp but still stuck with a weak transmission, when you guys say weak is that like the actual transmission or clutch?
I would recommend going with an install kit. I know you can go with a skyline crossmember, but fitment is a lot cleaner with a mounting kit. Hybrid was able to fit a strut tower bar with the stock intake manifold with his UH kit. It looks like money is not a huge factor for the install, so this would be a good idea in my opinion. With the left over ~2500 I would suggest Tein HE's (inexpensive highly regarded coilover suspension), which would leave you with enough for exhaust, gauges (boost, oil pres., temp, and fuel pres. are a good idea to have), and use the rest to start bringing things like tie rod ends and such up to spec.
This is just my two cents. Enjoy the car and welcome to the S body family.
-
thephatone
- Posts: 180
- Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2003 6:22 pm
- Car: cars
-
thephatone
- Posts: 180
- Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2003 6:22 pm
- Car: cars
Night7 has agreed to do my swap including, mounts, custom intake manifold, the actual car, installationg, wiring, driveshaft etc... for 10k ill be going to arizona in about 3 months...
oh by the way this is a rb25det and a 95 240sx
ill be also purchasing the huge fmic he has, a aftermarket bov if he has one, and also a fuel pump...
decision made! thanks everyone for their inputs
oh by the way this is a rb25det and a 95 240sx
ill be also purchasing the huge fmic he has, a aftermarket bov if he has one, and also a fuel pump...
decision made! thanks everyone for their inputs
-
Project240
- Posts: 773
- Joined: Fri Mar 21, 2003 5:42 pm
-
thephatone
- Posts: 180
- Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2003 6:22 pm
- Car: cars