If you had $5,500 for an engine build, what would you do?

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!

What Should I do?

1. Pull the Stock KA24DE engine out of the S13 and spend $5,500 on the stock engine to freshen it up and get decent numbers.
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35%
2. Buy an SR20DET swap (Most likely a redtop because of the minimal differences) and spend a few $'s in upgrades.
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19%
3. Buy the RB25DET Neo Engine with RB25DET Trans., a complete mounting kit from McKinney Motorsports, FMIC, Water Pump, Timing Belt, Apexi Head Gasket, Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump, Koyo Radiator and Electric Fan, and all Fluids such as oil, coolant, etc. Pretty much have a stock RB25DET Neo installed in the car is what I'm getting at.
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Total votes: 54

brudacille
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My names Brent and I'm from York, Pennsylvania. I have a few options including a KA24DE build, SR20DET, or RB25DET and I'm having a rough time making a decision. I'm trying to spend around $5,500 on a motor + transmission for an S13 Hatch. These are my options:

1. Pull the Stock KA24DE engine out of the S13 and spend $5,500 on the stock engine to freshen it up and get decent numbers.

2. Buy an SR20DET swap (Most likely a redtop because of the minimal differences) and spend a few $'s in upgrades.

3. Buy the RB25DET Neo Engine with RB25DET Trans., a complete mounting kit from McKinney Motorsports, FMIC, Water Pump, Timing Belt, Apexi Head Gasket, Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump, Koyo Radiator and Electric Fan, and all Fluids such as oil, coolant, etc. Pretty much have a stock RB25DET Neo installed in the car is what I'm getting at.

I would really like to conquer the RB25DET Neo Swap but I'd like to hear how everyone else would handle this situation first. How would you spend $5,500 on an engine build for an S13 and why?

FYI I am 100% serious and will have the money to order everything around the end of next month. I do plan on being around for awhile and keeping everyone updated on the swap. I have a total of $7500 to work with but I'm budgeting $2000 towards the S13 I'll need to buy.


kyhunter89
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What are you building the car for?

ME... I'd buy the cheapest coupe and put an lq4 with 243 heads and a t56

for 7500.... find a car thats already built....

brudacille
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kyhunter89 wrote:What are you building the car for?

ME... I'd buy the cheapest coupe and put an lq4 with 243 heads and a t56

for 7500.... find a car thats already built....
I'm building it for some parking lot fun, lol. I pretty much just want it for sliding and having fun, lol. It will see street use as well though.

I don't want a car thats already built. I sold my last S13 to TrexM3 mainly because I didn't build it myself and I like to take credit for my cars. My old 240sx that I owned can be seen here ( nj-1992-super-clean-s13-coupe-w-blackto ... 81447.html). I just don't like buying cars that are built because I didn't do the work myself. :gotme
Last edited by brudacille on Fri May 28, 2010 11:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

brudacille
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Any idea who has that car now by any chance?

duffman1278
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I would use the money instead to pay a moderator to shut this thread down.

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simmode1
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duffman1278 wrote:I would use the money instead to pay a moderator to shut this thread down.
Yes. Not enough options and thread is redundant x1million.
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hbpignosePA
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id by a s30;

but then again thats just me.

welcome to a local; honestly i would work on getting the car first; and if its a runner, just drive it for a bit till you learn how it handles and feels.

then do suspension, brakes, etc

worry about the motor last.

honestly any swap (especially an RB) is going to be super scary with stock brakes/suspension

Yesitisi
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^suspension and brakes +1

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daves240sx07
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Suspension,bushings and brakes.some sort of limited slip.The debate on the engine will go on forever.U have to decide on what u want the car to drive like.With that budget u could do any swap u want to.Personally i would do a all aluminum v8 only because i could use the low end torque.

nzmoman
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I would buy two cars. One for daily and one that you can put a rear end on, and a few suspension mods. You don't need a ton of power to drift or autox in a 240 especially if you are new to it. A few bolt ons and a 180 whp KA and you will have plenty of fun.

bonkers to your thoughts on buying a car thats already built. If you can save money that way do it. you can remove everything and put it all back on if that makes you happy. As long as the car was built by someone with the right know how and the previous owner wasn't a retard then you should be fine.

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confused9
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definitely put money into everything else. i got a 5G loan and a great friend to help put into my s13 and the engine is staying stock for now.

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Chris28
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Unless the rest of the car can handle the power of a $5k engine you shouldn't be asking this question.

If your chassis is up to the task, I'd re-build and boost the KA. 300+ whp is more than enough in an s-chassis and easily attainable with a reliable KA-T setup. Sure there are much more powerful options, but I enjoy not having to worry about wiring in an engine when I do a swap and being able to get replacement parts at any automotive store.

Other than that this topic is beating a dead horse. Sure there might not be a thread with such a specific question, but there are plenty of threads related to just about any engine you can put in an s13.

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gigabit240
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I say 2jz that mofo

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RustspecS13
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If I had $5500 to spend on my RB25 or VQ35, Id slap you and call you stupid for giving me five grand. Then run away and buy a tig welder, and get a built rotating assembly.....

If you spend 5K on an RB swap your doing it wrong.

Find some one local with a turbo 240sx of any kind. Take a ride.....

~Alex

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OutToWinPAHC
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Take that 5 grand and upgrade the brakes, diff and suspension first

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sleeper180
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hmm i say do the sr swap and still have some money to buy some coils, and suspenison work. i get how you dont wanna buy some1 elses car and i understand that but wouldnt a rb25 be to much? its pretty heavy and u said you wanna slide it so you dont need to much power for that. i say go sr for better weight distrubition and it will be alot faster and easier to swap it. plus parts arent hard to find for it. :)

corbin
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KA-T > SR

I think its a shame that people trash their KA's in favor of SR's when KA's are much faster. There is a reason time attack/drag cars all use KA-T, and its because KA has more displacement, more torque, better gear ratios, and is bulletproof with a good tune.

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PyR0NiAk
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corbin wrote:KA-T > SR

I think its a shame that people trash their KA's in favor of SR's when KA's are much faster. There is a reason time attack/drag cars all use KA-T, and its because KA has more displacement, more torque, better gear ratios, and is bulletproof with a good tune.
Fanboys never cease to amaze me... You're arguing displacement with 4 cylinders, and did you really just say better gear ratios? They run the same gear ratio. The only difference is 5th. I don't know about you, but I don't do much racing in 5th gear. As far as bulletproof with a good tune, I'm pretty sure an SR can handle more on the stock bottom end than a KA can. An SR is also more efficient as far as hp/liter. Yes, a KA has a little more torque, but imo, the extra weight in the front end isn't worth it. Now if you want to use numbers for your argument, we can discuss the 1300hp SR built by mazworx. It all comes down to personal preference.

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nissan_star
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Put a 1jz in it

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-LSD-
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PyR0NiAk wrote:
corbin wrote:KA-T > SR

I think its a shame that people trash their KA's in favor of SR's when KA's are much faster. There is a reason time attack/drag cars all use KA-T, and its because KA has more displacement, more torque, better gear ratios, and is bulletproof with a good tune.
Fanboys never cease to amaze me... You're arguing displacement with 4 cylinders, and did you really just say better gear ratios? They run the same gear ratio. The only difference is 5th. I don't know about you, but I don't do much racing in 5th gear. As far as bulletproof with a good tune, I'm pretty sure an SR can handle more on the stock bottom end than a KA can. An SR is also more efficient as far as hp/liter. Yes, a KA has a little more torque, but imo, the extra weight in the front end isn't worth it. Now if you want to use numbers for your argument, we can discuss the 1300hp SR built by mazworx. It all comes down to personal preference.
They really run same ratios??? I recently sold my sr powered coupe and now driving stock s14 and first gear seems to be hella short, i dont even feel it there. Is it just me or :wtf2:

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S13Teddy
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I'll tell you what the LAST engine build I would do for $5,500 would be ;)

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PyR0NiAk
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diy-swapping-sr-bell-housing-to-ka-tran ... 78158.html

^- Read the first sentence...


And what is the LAST one you would do Teddy?

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asoomal
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OutToWinPAHC wrote:Take that 5 grand and upgrade the brakes, diff and suspension first

+1

Suspension & Brakes are ALWAYS first.

Coils, wheels, BBK, adjustable arms, and solid bushings :D

http://splparts.com/store/product-info.php?pid12.html

:naughty:

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Az24tsx
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PyR0NiAk wrote:
corbin wrote:KA-T > SR

I think its a shame that people trash their KA's in favor of SR's when KA's are much faster. There is a reason time attack/drag cars all use KA-T, and its because KA has more displacement, more torque, better gear ratios, and is bulletproof with a good tune.
Fanboys never cease to amaze me... You're arguing displacement with 4 cylinders, and did you really just say better gear ratios? They run the same gear ratio. The only difference is 5th. I don't know about you, but I don't do much racing in 5th gear. As far as bulletproof with a good tune, I'm pretty sure an SR can handle more on the stock bottom end than a KA can. An SR is also more efficient as far as hp/liter. Yes, a KA has a little more torque, but imo, the extra weight in the front end isn't worth it. Now if you want to use numbers for your argument, we can discuss the 1300hp SR built by mazworx. It all comes down to personal preference.
But how many people actually have the money to build something to the level of Mazworx's SR? Both are good motors but you only pointed out the pros of the SR what about the KA-T Pros. Iron Block, Availability? etc...

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PyR0NiAk
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I had no problem getting my SR... They're pretty readily available. The iron block I did mention when I mentioned the extra weight. ;) I don't consider an iron block a pro. Besides, it was an anti-fanboy argument. I had no reason to discuss the goods of each engine. He was too busy trying to focus on the goods that DON'T exist with a KA, so I filled him in. That's all. I did mention the torque as well. The only other pro I can think of is no rocker arm issues.

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Az24tsx
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PyR0NiAk wrote:I had no problem getting my SR... They're pretty readily available. The iron block I did mention when I mentioned the extra weight. ;) I don't consider an iron block a pro. Besides, it was an anti-fanboy argument. I had no reason to discuss the goods of each engine. He was too busy trying to focus on the goods that DON'T exist with a KA, so I filled him in. That's all. I did mention the torque as well. The only other pro I can think of is no rocker arm issues.
Touche :dblthumb:

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PyR0NiAk
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Az24tsx wrote:ERR double post owned lol
Cleaned that up for you.

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Az24tsx
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I now agree with you about The iron block not being a pro in the KA's Case if it maybe had a better bore size and spacing then maybe. But you hit the nail on the head. P.S thanks for cleaning that up for me

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RustspecS13
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I hate SR's. Mainly because of their heads. Those dam rocker arms will break at any time. My friends did while he was just cruising around. Plus you are loosing .4L. Torque is fun. Rocker arm stoppers you say? They don't do anything to make them more durable they just stop them from over extending the rockers. And its more metal to get pulled into the engine when the rocker does break.

A stock KA will do 400whp just like any SR. And then just like the SR if its not in good shape it will blow. SR's blow up at stock HP, so do KA's. Its a nissan 4cyl, 400whp is achiveable but mid 300's are most definitely reliable.

As for weight, don't worry about it. I have an RB20 (soon to be pulled for a rb25) and its not really an issue, and if it is your driving wrong, or have horrible tires. My friend had a RB20 coupe running 14psi, and a FMIC and a 3in exhaust, a 10 point roll cage and seat and a welded diff. It was his nasa certified drift car. For a while he ran 215/50/16 BFG traction TA all seasons, pure drift car BTW. Besides tonns of drift cars have RB's. I saw some one plow into a wall in an SR, from understeer. Guess that means my heavy rb will kill me.

Just get good tires all the way around. They help out tremendously.

~Alex

hbpignosePA
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and again; why do you need 400 hp in a s chassis?


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