Idling too high! Need some suggestions on what it could be.

[TLeid]

I just did a head gasket and everything is running good but it idled at 2500 and then i readjusted the throttle cable and now it runs at 2100. still not low enough obviously. what else can i adjust to make it normal?

Please help. Any suggestions would be great!

Thanks

[float_6969]

Sounds like you have a leak in the manifold somewhere. Did you replace all of the intake manifold gaskets when you changed the HG?

[TLeid]

S

Sounds like you have a leak in the manifold somewhere. Did you replace all of the intake manifold gaskets when you changed the HG?

Sorry about the double post. I'm just soooo desperate right now. This is my daily drive and i need my vehicle and some help here.

anyway i did chang power valve and intake manifold gaskets. Intake manifold leak is possible since it's idle hunting and sounds like it's missing But a VERYYY loud whining sound is coming from the vacinity of the middle of like the power valve where the butterfly valves are. I kinda stuck a flat head in there and pushed the lever for the butterfly valve and wedged it against the power valve and it stopped for like 5 seconds and then it came back. Then i kept trying it and now it won't stop at all . it's like i wedged something or moved something just the right way. I checked the ECU codes and this is what it threw at me.

1 slow2 slow3 quick4 quick5 quick

Like what in the world does that mean?

If someone could help me figure out what this is and if anyone is willing to take the time, maybe i can record everything on my camera and gives a better picture of what's happening

[TLeid]

Anyone?

[boost_boy]

S

Sorry about the double post. I'm just soooo desperate right now. This is my daily drive and i need my vehicle and some help here.

anyway i did chang power valve and intake manifold gaskets. Intake manifold leak is possible since it's idle hunting and sounds like it's missing But a VERYYY loud whining sound is coming from the vacinity of the middle of like the power valve where the butterfly valves are. I kinda stuck a flat head in there and pushed the lever for the butterfly valve and wedged it against the power valve and it stopped for like 5 seconds and then it came back. Then i kept trying it and now it won't stop at all . it's like i wedged something or moved something just the right way. I checked the ECU codes and this is what it threw at me.

1 slow2 slow3 quick4 quick5 quick

Like what in the world does that mean?

If someone could help me figure out what this is and if anyone is willing to take the time, maybe i can record everything on my camera and gives a better picture of what's happening

Dude, you really should do some research on this motor and it's possibilities of issues because if you can't do a diagnostic on an engine that's in your car and that's as simple as this one, you're in for a lot of headaches. Oh yeah, you read the start-up sequence for the ecu diagnostics which means didley-squat to us. After you get the 3 quick flashes, you must immediately return the dial back to it's original position at which time the ecu will start flashing the green and red lights. The green is usually first and then the red. Count the # of green flashes and the count the # of red flashes and it is these flashes that will give you your ecu's codes. Be aware that after the first code sequence (red and green flashes) you should be prepared for more codes. There's my gift to you, but next time do a little more research on what you've invested your money in. Good luck and let us know what you find.

Dee

[TLeid]

Fun

Dude, you really should do some research on this motor and it's possibilities of issues because if you can't do a diagnostic on an engine that's in your car and that's as simple as this one, you're in for a lot of headaches. Oh yeah, you read the start-up sequence for the ecu diagnostics which means didley-squat to us. After you get the 3 quick flashes, you must immediately return the dial back to it's original position at which time the ecu will start flashing the green and red lights. The green is usually first and then the red. Count the # of green flashes and the count the # of red flashes and it is these flashes that will give you your ecu's codes. Be aware that after the first code sequence (red and green flashes) you should be prepared for more codes. There's my gift to you, but next time do a little more research on what you've invested your money in. Good luck and let us know what you find.

Dee

Funny things DEE. I've been doing research the last 4 days non stop and just found that howto ECU code check like 2 hours before you posted that. I'm going over to check those codes now and i'll let you know what came up. Thanks

[TLeid]

Dude, you really should do some research on this motor and it's possibilities of issues because if you can't do a diagnostic on an engine that's in your car and that's as simple as this one, you're in for a lot of headaches. Oh yeah, you read the start-up sequence for the ecu diagnostics which means didley-squat to us. After you get the 3 quick flashes, you must immediately return the dial back to it's original position at which time the ecu will start flashing the green and red lights. The green is usually first and then the red. Count the # of green flashes and the count the # of red flashes and it is these flashes that will give you your ecu's codes. Be aware that after the first code sequence (red and green flashes) you should be prepared for more codes. There's my gift to you, but next time do a little more research on what you've invested your money in. Good luck and let us know what you find.

Dee

Alright so i'm sorry for so many questions and all. I'm not a professional mechanic or anything. I'm just learning as i go. I know i have more to learn and i would like to learn so please don't flame me on this stuff.

But anyway i checked the ECU and it read 55 so therefore the ECU says it's fine. I started it up again and the idle was decent since i adjusted the CAS but it was still idling at about 1500. The only thing now is that it won't stay smooth idling again and i've played with the TPS and the IACV valve and i don't know how to adjust the idle correctly. It seems i rev it and it takes a long time to drop idle or sometimes it stays up there where i revved it but the throttle cable isn't stuck. Plus when it starts dropping when i adjust it, when i get to about 1100 RPM it's like it drops off a cliff and it falls to like 400 rpm and starts trying to die. I have no idea what is wrong and it's stressing me out.

[float_6969]

You know it should it should idle at like 1500 when you first start it when it's cold, right? It will take a few mins for it to come down to it's base idle @ about 900.

The FSM has a guideline for setting the idle. You have you check some other things before you are able to do it, so make sure you follow the procedure closely.

[Fleemer]

mine does it backwards....

wtf :P

idles at like 900-1100 when cold. then warm, 1500-1700

:P

But my injector rail is leaking everywhere sooo... not going to bother fixing it yet :P

[TLeid]

You know it should it should idle at like 1500 when you first start it when it's cold, right? It will take a few mins for it to come down to it's base idle @ about 900.

The FSM has a guideline for setting the idle. You have you check some other things before you are able to do it, so make sure you follow the procedure closely.

Alright, so i played with the TPS and the idle. I got it set to about 1500 at cold and then when it warms up, it is getting better but it still idle hunts but in lower RPM. It idles around 1000 and then drops slowly to 700 and then goes back up slowly to about 1200 and repeats. Sometimes it steadys out and sometime it bogs. I took it for a rip and it feels like it's not bad but there is a definate loss in power. It doesn't pull as hard and just driving at a steady speed at 50km/h it does a tiny bog it feels like every rotation or 10 seconds.

It's still makes the squeeling sound though when i rev it up and it drops to about 2 grand. It's definately coming from either my power valve, or injectors cause i spray some WD40 in that area and it bogs really bad and then picks up again. I'm going to register it and insure it and drive it around as a daily driver until i get a winter beater. I just don't know about that idle still and the squeeling and slight hesitation.

[Fleemer]

check for vac leaks. get a can of brake cleaner and mist it around stuff.

car idle will stabalize where the leak is.

I found an exhaust leak by accident on my motorcycle like that :P

Allways had a missfire when war due to cracked header.

[float_6969]

He just said he sprayed in the area of the manifold and had the idle change, so he's definitely got a leak in the manifold somewhere.

[TLeid]

He just said he sprayed in the area of the manifold and had the idle change, so he's definitely got a leak in the manifold somewhere.

yeah it's definately some where around the intake manifold or power valve. But do the symptoms i have match up with a vaccum leak. Like would that really create a significant loss in power?

[float_6969]

yes

[s13redmon]

mine does it backwards....

wtf :P

idles at like 900-1100 when cold. then warm, 1500-1700

:P

But my injector rail is leaking everywhere sooo... not going to bother fixing it yet :P

Mine does the same s**t with the idle control bs hooked up!! I ended up just blocking off all of it and cracking the tb open a little bit with the set screw on the throttle cable side. Sucks starting it when its cold but whatever, it doesn't jump up and down anymore

[JoshuaTowler]

If you haven't gotten it figured out yet, check for vacuum leaks. You may have a loose vacuum line somewhere. If you have a vacuum gauge hook it up to a manifold port and check it, you should get a reading between 17-22 hgs.