idle problem

[z6hatchboy]

Ive been searching and people problems for idle are. Vacuum leak, iacv problem, coil packs, tps problems, timing, and a few others. My situation is a little different. When i got the motor it had a apexi neo on it and it idled high. I swapped the motor from that car to another, same thing of course then i got it to idle decent but it wouldnt go past 4k rpm. Found out that with the neo maf setting one way it would idle but not go past 4k but with it set another way it would go past 4k but not idle. When swapping motors found the coolant lines werent hooked up to the iacv (aac), so i bought some line and hooked it up. Then broke a rocker so i recently finished that, and the when you start it the idle shoots to 2k then dies if you dont tap the gas, and when you do tap it, it shoots back to 2k and over and over again. I noticed once when it warms up it went away, but thats only happend once. I tried to take it out the other day and this happened, it revved fine with no load but when you started to let the clutch out or had it out (when a load was applied) it starts sputtering and bucking. The only load sensing device is a maf, is that it? i set the ignition and base timing per fsm when i put it back together and its right. This is killing me Oh and i cleaned the iacv this morning and it didnt help anything. I did ohm it also, i got 10.3 ohms one way. I was researching and soemone with a q45 infinity said there iacv ohm spec was 10.0 ohms. I dont know if the sr is anything like that or if anyone knows. I also used a multi meter and probed all the connectors on the car side of the iac harness. One connector got like .3v and the other like .6v. Does that sound right at all?

[1SICKMJ]

Check the MAF sensor, thats where I would start. Im a mechanic at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park and we have had a few ford rangers(not the same thing i know) any way the MAF have been bad and when we took them apart there are two forked probes stick into the air tube, anyway those forks have a small wire going from one another and if it was broken or corroded the truck idled and ran like crap.

OR

if it throws a check engine light go to an autozone and i think they should hook up and OBDII to your car for FREE and they can read the codes. If your car is equipped with OBDII. Sorry I cant be more specific I dont own a 240 yet