Idle problem for smart you guys !!

[nismo s-13]

Hi every one my name is Johann i live in P.R. and not too many persons around here now how to work with a KA24de dohc 1993 nissan 240sx, so I was wondering if someone could lend me a thought so heres the deal my car was recently rebuild new pistons, eagle rods (good), timing chain, and some other things. my car was idling about 700 so i took my manifold out and took the liberty of eliminating the butterflys in the intake manifold, when i installed everything back together my car started fine but later on it started to see blackish smoke coming from the pipe so before i took the butterflys out it did it so i thought maybe it needs more air for the mix maybe it has too much fuel, i dont have a FPR im in progress just waiting for the a fittint to eliminate the OEM FPR and install a new one so I have B&B spark plug cables and platinum NGK sparks I took out the pair valve and the other emission system like the EGR including the tube and sealed it, I checked my car for vaccum leaks and it showed none but it has recently been turning my spark plugs black, I dont know what to do Im getting desperate and angry ohh my ignition I dont know if its good or bad. I defenetly need help expert advices i want my car to be running and kicking as... so please someone!!! I Still need to get rid of the fan clutch I hate it so much! normally when im crusing that I shift back from 4 to N it sometimes the RPMS go from 1000 to 500 and back and forth back and forth and you can see the black smoke coming out what could it be it doesnt do it all the time, just sometimes, but the other day i had to make a sudden stop and it turned off quickly when I stepped in the clutch it idles in about 1100 cause the only solution i saw to this was to forward the distributor and now when i turn my A/C on, the car lowers the RPMS insted of raising them what the heck is happening I have so much problems and I dont want to sell it case I love the car. Thanks for hearing me out!

[samozary]

Your ignition system is good other wise it would not start or run. Check to see if your injectors are seated all the way and the o'rings are good. There might be leak, causing to much fuel to enter the combustion chamber. Do you have vaccum to the FPR? Is your spark plug gap correct? The only other thing I can think of is your timing might be off a little.

[nismo s-13]

well thanks for the advice on the ignition, yes i have a vaccum going to the FPR I just installed the FPR today and have set it to 30psi and it still does it it does it more when the lights are on than when the lights are off and when i have much less gas on the tank when its marking reserve it does it a lot the car goes crazy dont know why. The other thing is that is hard to start in the mornings when its cold and sometimes when its hot.

[nismo s-13]

so let me explain what it does when Im trying to start it in the mornings:So when i put the switch on it sputters and tries to start and sputters in 500 RPMS and starts climbing to 600,7,8,9 until it reaches 1200RPMS almoust every morning it does it i dont think its the timing cause i used a FSM to put it in time and the picture I used was this one [IMG][/IMG]

[nismo s-13]

well i really still dont know how to post a picture so its kinda difficult for me but the timing was set from the FSM manual

[samozary]

Your fuel pressure should be set at 37psi. 30 is to low. ALso, you can clean the MAF sensor with brakleen. It might be dirty causing eratic idle. Take the MAf off the car and spray the cleaner on the wires inside the sensor, then let it drip dry about 5 mins. Don't touch the wires or you will need a new MAF. $100 for one. Don't use any other cleaner either or you'll need a new MAF.

Did you remove the air regulator and IAC. These cotrol idle at start up. Theres nothing wrong with removing them. Your cars computer just can't control the idle befor it warms up. Does the car idle normally after it warms up?

So you removed all the emissions stuff? Sound like you cleaned the throttle body and changed spark plugs, wires , and distributer cap and rotor. So the only other thing that can be effecting it is the MAF.

Modified by samozary at 2:17 AM 3/15/2008
Modified by samozary at 2:19 AM 3/15/2008

[samozary]

Once you get the fuel pressure set. Reset the ECU while your cleaninf the MAF. Just unhook the pos. and neg. battery cables for at least 30 secs.

[nismo s-13]

Your fuel pressure should be set at 37psi. 30 is to low. ALso, you can clean the MAF sensor with brakleen. It might be dirty causing eratic idle. Take the MAf off the car and spray the cleaner on the wires inside the sensor, then let it drip dry about 5 mins. Don't touch the wires or you will need a new MAF. $100 for one. Don't use any other cleaner either or you'll need a new MAF.

Did you remove the air regulator and IAC. These cotrol idle at start up. Theres nothing wrong with removing them. Your cars computer just can't control the idle befor it warms up. Does the car idle normally after it warms up?

So you removed all the emissions stuff? Sound like you cleaned the throttle body and changed spark plugs, wires , and distributer cap and rotor. So the only other thing that can be effecting it is the MAF.

Modified by samozary at 2:17 AM 3/15/2008

Modified by samozary at 2:19 AM 3/15/2008

when you say if i removed the air regulator and the iac you mean by eliminating them disconecting them or taking them off and sealing the hole they left (explain) cause i took them out yesterday and cleaned them with choke cleaner and putted them back on at least the iacv thats the one i cleaned and installed back again

[nismo s-13]

just so you guys know I checked the timing yesterday too and at TDC point the two cam lobes are looking away from each other if i could just post some pics but i dont know how man. well heres a recent unpdate of what the car is now been doing: if i start it this is what it does: When i startit it sputters and i have to stay cranking it for like 10 sec and it doesnt start then I staep on the gas have way and crank it again and then it start sputtering from 500,600 to 1300 rpms and sits there till its getting hot then lower to 1250 and sits there and something curious is that when i press the brake and put the lights on its lower back to 1000 RPMS and if I switch it off all of ti it goes back to 1250 RPMS if i try to turn it back again in like 5 minutes its been set to 37 psi but now it starteed good but in like 45 seconds it started to throw black smoke out of the exhaust and to sputter too but it starts reaches 600 RPMS quickly and sits at 1100 RPMS so i have it set to 31.5 psi why is this happening?

Modified by nismo s-13 at 6:10 PM 3/16/2008
Modified by nismo s-13 at 6:20 PM 3/16/2008

[nismo s-13]

so now when its sitting for like 2 minutes it starts to lower and raise the RPMS from 1050 to 950 no black smoke just that the raise and fall of the RPM is what I call it

[nismo s-13]

and when its been sitting there for like two minutes on I checked the spark plugs there black why is this ?

[nismo s-13]

how do I know if the spark plug gap is the one that suites me how do I check the gap I dont know how. heres thew timing of where its set:

Modified by nismo s-13 at 7:29 PM 3/21/2008
Modified by nismo s-13 at 7:31 PM 3/21/2008

[nismo s-13]

so heres a new update this night i thought of cleaning the electrical connector and went straight to the fuse box removed it and cleaned the under part (connectors) then i started the car and the cars idle was in 1100 so warmend it up first and it was sitting in 750, then clear smoke began to come out the exhaust with little drippings of water for like 5 seconds then it sopped then the idle climbed up to 800,850 and sat there for minutes, so I turned the engine of. In the morning I started the the car it idle in 1100 warmend it up and it stayed in 900 took it for a ride and while I was riding it if i pressed the clutch instatly it would go down to 850 and climb up to 1050 and stay there but if I pressed the brake and turned the lights on (all) it would go down 950 RPMS. All of this after cleaning the connectors at the left fuse box near the intake manifold.

[nismo s-13]

well heres a new update I just used a noid light to test that the injectors were recieving voltage but the was barely a light so my injectors are not recieving voltage thats why it doesnt wanna start when its cold. What could it be that there is not a high voltage to the injectors?