idle issues and others...

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
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climaxsr20
Posts: 114
Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2005 3:13 am
Car: 1998 Silvia RedTop

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hey everyone. well here is a list of my setup before continuing to tell you my problem.

98 240sx w/ redtop sr20det, walbro fuelpump, nismo fpr, hybrid intercooler w/pipes, hks intake, hks bov, apex full exhaust, downpipe, testpipe, new powersteering belt, new waterpump belt, alternator belt, maxima clutch w/ pressure plate.

okay so i start my car and it idles okay for a bit and gets worse and worse. from 900-1500 rpm after a while it drops down to 300-1000. i have messed with the cranksensor back and forth and fuel pressure regulator and the little thumb plug on the intake side and ecu switch or whatever its called on the ecu. same ****. i pulled the maf plug off and car starts then dies. i have tried spraying intake cleaner around all hose. same ****. checked spark plugs all spark plugs are black (ngk v-power) so that means i am getting sparks in each cylinder. checked the injectors and all injectors are working. drove it around the block a couple of times. feels much weaker than my brothers 180sx. the turbo feels like it spools but no power. but it cant be the turbo since i have checked the turbo and no shaftplay and oil at all (perfect turbo). i have taken out the cank angle sensor a couple of times and it took forever to start up the motor again. could this be it. did i mess up the timing? also is there a couple of ways to start the motor with wrong timing.

also the diaphram on the fuelpressure regulator moves when i loosen or tighten the spring is this suppose to happen?

my other issue is that sometimes usually the first time i start the car from a long rest for the engine. the engine would do this really loud cranking noise. like its hiting something and stops. then it would work the second time. anyone has ever encountered this issue. sounds like my starter is dying or something. how can you tell if your starter is going to go out?please help. thanks.


RPS13 Rocket
Posts: 167
Joined: Sun Oct 20, 2002 6:12 am
Car: 93 Infiniti J30
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A. are you recirculating the BOV or do you have an AFC or something?

B. you might be flooding the car at idle due to the upgraded pump and regulator but you have no way of controlling it electronically at idle...so you can pull some fuel out - sounds like you need to get a wideband hooked up to it and strap it to a dyno...see if you are uber rich at idle.

Greddy Emanage is your friend...we pick up an average of 40rwhp with the use of the emanage.

Onizuka
Posts: 8450
Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 5:24 pm
Car: 91 Nissan S13 coupe SR20DET
89 Nissan S14 hatch SR20DE

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Sounds like a leak somewhere in your intercooler piping. Do you smell fuel when you accelerate?

I bed you have a multitude of little adjustments to make rather than having to replace parts. I agree, get on a dyno with a wideband O2 sensor and see whats happening with the motor at idle and at wide open throttle. Most shops will be able to help you with fuel pressure adjustments.

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climaxsr20
Posts: 114
Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2005 3:13 am
Car: 1998 Silvia RedTop

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thanks for some inputs. no i an not recirculating the bov. i want to though. i was also wondering if the bov is making the idle ****ty and if i recirculate that it might help. i am not running a afc. i was thinking of just getting a pressure gauge and hooking it up. what pressure is the sr20det fuel at for you guys.

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ETTInnov04
Posts: 378
Joined: Fri Dec 03, 2004 4:38 am
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx fastback

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Another thing the others may have missed you said you ulled out the cas a few times? Did you reset the timing when doing this or just put it back in? Your car could be out of time, hence the loss of power.

Running an atmospheric BOV(not recirculating it) can cause bad idle as well a car that runs rich and backfires. You can tighten down the adjustment screw to try and fix some of it.-Chris


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